warwickhunt

Single as per Delano (1 large pole per string 4 in total for a P pup). Double as per Fender et al (2 small poles per string 8 in total per P pup)

All watts are not equal, all drivers, all cabinets, all... well everything really! I had old passive Peavey BW 15" cabs (25 years ago) each a couple of 100 watts (used with 2x250w amp) and they performed faultlessly for 15 years. I've since used 1000-2000w 10/12/15" cabs and I'm not sure they are any better! Added to which I know PA guys who could make a band sound great with a couple of hundred watts of amps/cabs whereas another bloke could cripple a band with 2k watts of PA. In short, I don't think it is as easy as 'how many watts'!

My new Lionel...

NBD Sandberg Lionel.

I've been using strips of day-glo orange duct/gaffa tape as side 'dots' for ages... I'm thinking the glo in the dark stuff off ebay @ £4.10 inc delivery will be a luxury!

Caveat re 'righty tighty'... never take this as gospel; sometimes it is the reverse. Make an initial very small turn and check (or even keep the bass connected to a tuner to see if the pitch increases/decreases).

Personally I would/could do a video, upload and attach it to email blah blah blah but I'd be doing it as much as anything to cover my back. However, there'll be some folk that can't or would find that difficult to do and they shouldn't need to stress about returning a faulty item. I'm confident the distance buying doesn't require the onus to be on the buyer to prove it is faulty, so the seller appears to be imposing conditions that aren't required. Aside from anything else, if you really wanted to, you could easily make it appear you were pressing buttons etc even if you weren't; so I am unsure what the seller/company is gaining! For context I received a dehumidifier direct from a manufacturer last week and needed to return it as it ran very noisy. I filled in a returns form and they rang me to ask if I could do a video, I said that I'd already videoed it on my phone for my record but seeing as they were on the phone, they could have a listen... 3 days later they'd collected the unit and sent me a replacement. I could have faffed on forwarding the video but tbh I knew my rights and it was going back either way!

Going off that 1 pic it does look like it has been attacked with a blunt chisel as opposed to 'roadworn' which is a shame as Sandberg do great aged basses!

For goodness sake he plays Ibanze guitars!

This is my actual Tele, reviewed by the guitarist in my band. What he fails to mention is that I paid £99 for it.

I've worn ear plugs (inc custom moulds) for 20+ years so I've saved 'some' of my hearing but I know damage was done before that (slight tinnitus and less top end hearing in my left ear). IEM should further reduce on stage volumes/DB/pressure (where it is practicable to use them) but I still have to contend with loud acoustic drummers and situations where IEMing is not available!

Not on the same level of quality but I've gone from the KZ10 to Sennheiser IE100 which I concede are budget models but I much prefer the tone of the IE100 with the single DD as opposed to the 5 in the KZs. However, the main reasons for the change was that I could never get a comfortable fit and isolation with the KZs whereas the smaller, lighter, low profile IE100s just fit and seal much better for my ear shape.

Recurring shoulder injury means that anything over 9lb is, in my books, heavy! I have basses ranging from 5lb (Aria Sinsonidia/Hofner) to 8.5lb (Sandberg/Warwick) and I can do 2-3 sets no problem, as soon as a bass exceeds 9lb(ish), even with a neoprene/padded/wide stripe, my shoulder will ache over the next days.

I'm a simple lad, when it says 'no mid frequency' I take that to mean...

3 band EQ... no midrange?

Are you using independent power supplies or are they all running off one? My TC Plethora does strange things if I power if from a brick that is supplying power to other pedals, regardless of the fact that the supply is strong enough. I resorted to ensuring the Plethora (digital) had its own supply and no problems since. Not saying it is that but worth looking at.

Point taken. Possibly I'm just jaded with many of the pre/DI pedals available.

£500 for an overdrive pedal? I didn't even think the 'clean' setting was that clean, added to which the recording/setting/bass sounded compressed! A bi-amp switch; it has 2 channels, 1 with a HPF, the other with a LPF... blended back into 1 output. It'll be perfect for someone's needs but I can't help think they are just knocking out new 'designs' for the sake of it.

£438 (and counting) seems steep for this model... or have I missed something?

Comments re. distortion/buzz/crackle are of interest to me. I 'think' my amp has an issue but oddly it went away when I took it along to a recent bass bash. I noticed the slight break up on the decay of a note but wondered if it would be audible when recorded... apparently so. Turning down the input gain as opposed to output was a considered choice. I was aware that it could change the tone but I made my choice after trialling turning down each before starting. I've no idea why turning down the input a bit would have less impact than the output but it did. When I turned down the output to match the record levels the overall tone seemed to lack depth and punch (vague terms I know), which turning down the input seemed to have less affect. All just my feeling as I did it at the time but I certainly felt that that cab (4 ohm) was more representative of it's overall tone when adjusted that way. In hindsight I could have possibly tried turning down both a little bit. All things you have to test on the day/in the moment.

I've messaged you the actual recording 'answers'

Of course but all samples will be affected equally. The other thing is that folks can get their knickers in a twist about their tone (often created by amp/speaker combinations )but then a sound guy takes a DI and puts your carefully sculpted tone through whatever speakers he has chosen.

Speaking of speaker size... I did a thing the other day which might be of interest if you are talking about the tone/sound of a speaker based on its diameter. Have a listen to the examples and see if you can tell the difference between a 10/12/15 speaker. It bears relevance if you are comparing 8" and 10" solely based on diameter.

...or did he and he's trying to make others shuffle his answers!