warwickhunt

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1370711262' post='2104766'] Nope. To my ears, 1 AE112 sounds great but 2 AE112 cabs sound 5 times better. [/quote] Ditto the Aguilar DB112. One cab is OK but two is greater than the sum of the pair!

How much was it?

Loved my pair of Aguilar DB112 cabs and still rate the sound (to my ears) slightly more than the Berg AE212 cab which replaced them (the AE212 is the weight of one of the Aggies and a great one cab fix).

Aside from the 'is it' question, why a bargain? It has a starting price of £80, the finish price could be anywhere you'd care to name; there are thousands of instruments listed on ebay with low starting bids but they only remain bargains if nobody bids on them!

You've got a higher output from the first combo than you'd have from the bass, nothing to do with ohmage, it is just gain stacking. Take the effects send of combo #1 (which your bass is plugged into) and plug that into the effects return of #2 that should do it. The tuner, DI and headphones are outputs (as is the effects send) and the effects return and front input are 'inputs' so you could try combinations of out/in from #1 - #2 but don't use the Ext Cab option. Does that make sense?

[quote name='Bill' timestamp='1369851109' post='2093544'] here is a link that will explain the ramp benefit's etc! [url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/theramp.html"]http://www.garywilli...al/theramp.html[/url] [/quote] Yep, I'm aware of what the ramp does but it is essentially a 4 string thumb/finger rest which when I have tried I have found myself frustrated with the restriction of full movement across the strings... it is a great thumb rest for the E string but never worked for me (tried it on two basses which came to me with one attached and I removed them, as well as FH's Spector which I tried). each to his own though!

Doh you posted as I typed!

'Funkyhobbit' off BC had a ramp fitted to his Spector which has a similar convex top and it wasn't cheap to get it shaped to match (saying that it was a PJ set-up so more difficult). I'd go for maple to match the body (assuming it is between pups that you are going to place it) or wenge to match the fingerboard; wenge will be much pricier than maple though! Just out of interest what 'tonal' benefits do you imagine a ramp will impart. I assume you mean from you being able to alter your left hand playing technique.

If it is a BBOT bridge being swapped for a higher mass bridge (Badass etc) then you may hear some differences due to the added mass but it isn't always the case that it will be a significant improvement. Saying that if you can buy a 'used' bridge to try then you are not going to lose any money if you decide it adds nothing and then sell it on. .

I've owned basses that have had the facility to be strung through both positions (bridge rear/thru-body) and I have to say that there was no discernible difference to my ear; whether in isolation or with a full band cranked. In fact I had grief with one bass when thru-body stringing and the windings came to the saddle point and if using flats the string would 'fracture' (for want of a better word), due to the break angle coming over the saddles from the rear (fnarr). However, it works for some so go with what you feel is best... your ears may be in better shape than mine.

TBH it is dependent upon any issues with the amp but IMHO the 2x10 cab is worth £50-£80 and the amp maybe the same but if it needs servicing maybe lower so £30-£80

[quote name='Apothem' timestamp='1369336872' post='2088080'] Don't see many of these around.... [/quote] ...patently more than you thought!

[quote name='xroads' timestamp='1369172131' post='2085916'] Yeah, are you sure you don't want to add another SL 112? [/quote] +1

Excellent fella, top communications and paid promptly as promised. Have no fears when dealing with Norris. Enjoy the Ric.

Not one that I have ever seen before... and I've seen lots! Could it be home/custom made?

Is it Sadowsky, Lull or AC shaped?

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1367841602' post='2070049'] not tempted to ask him? just for the craic? [/quote] Yep, done and 'it needs setting up'! You pays your money...

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1367838681' post='2069992'] The only access point to the truss rod I can see on mine is the one in the headstock. It has a though neck, so it's not like you take the neck off and access it that way. So I'd be interested to know how you get to it. [/quote] The early Warwicks had a truss rod that could be removed by slackening/straightening the truss rod/neck and then inverting the bass or pulling the rod with a suitable tool, the rod slid out and could be reversed/replaced.