warwickhunt

It may well be a genuine sale, just because he/she has cut and pasted generic info into their thread and they are a brand new user doesn't make it a dodgy bass but... nobody, not ever... should ever wind the G string that way on a Stingray bass! [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/musicman-stingray-/180850711959?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2a1b8add97#ht_982wt_1396"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/musicman-stingray-/180850711959?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2a1b8add97#ht_982wt_1396[/url]

The worst bit is he can't even leave negative feedback for this guy!

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1332693796' post='1591726'] Whenever i come across sellers not offering postage, i just ask them if they will put bubble wrap and a box round it, and i'll have a courier pick it up (Arranged by me for collection at a time to suit them.....usually their work address), so far, i've [i]never[/i] had that option refused by a seller. I pay £12 for a courier to collect a bass from anywhere in the UK, and bring it to my door. Well worth considering guys, dont be put off from a potential bargain because buyer wants collection only!!! [/quote] I regularly do that and actually did it with this guy but it was a none starter! Some people can't be bothered with waiting in for couriers to turn up and/or they fear that breakages (or if on ebay 'alleged' breakages) will give them more grief than it is worth. HOWEVER, worst case scenario happened to a friend; he sold a remote control car on ebay and the buyer paid via paypal and phoned my mate asking if he could organise a courier. Not a problem so my mate duly packed it and it was collected next day... just over a week later the buyer demands a refund for none delivery of item! My mate doesn't have a leg to stand on as he has no 'proof' that he sent the item, as the buyer did all of the booking etc. A cautionary tale.

My whippet ate one of my fingers so I can ownly coont tu three!

Had this guy offered carriage I reckon he'd have received a good deal more for his Ltd Ed Stingray! [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190657584569?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1202"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190657584569?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1202[/url] I sent a message and got nowt back but I'd have bumped his bidding up to about £700.

Just to be clear; the fanned frets make the bass sound more 'in-tune' across the whole fingerboard (better than the Buzz Feiten affair)? If so doesn't that make the guitarists appear even MORE out of tune than they frequently are!

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1332278648' post='1586126'] Is it Mexican? Is it even a Fender? I've offered 99p [/quote] Oh that one...

Remember if you use the calculator above, Parcel Force may well want their handling charge if it is coming via a courier whereby they don't handle the UK end (USPS etc.). I've always reckoned on 25% on top of whatever the 'total' cost (inc carriage) of the instrument is.

If you can't see this in person be sure to get good pics of the body as I've seen loads of the fotoflame finishes with splits and cracks in the covering; not to say the wood below is cracked, simply the covering.

I've owned Warwicks with all sorts of pups in them and tbh 'most' of the tone of a Warwick comes from the bass (construction/materials) itself with some colouration/tone/sound attributed to the pups. I have directly swapped out (and back) EMGs and MECs and tbh there wasn't a whole heap of difference! There are some subtle differences between say MEC and SD/Bartolini etc. BUT you could equally get as large a difference by fitting a different brand/material of string or tweaking the EQ on your amp. The cost to buy a new MEC P pup is extortionate, so if you are intent on fitting MEC just wait till someone is flogging a used one, which they have taken out of their bass to fit an EMG... but get it quick as they may realise there is no difference worth speaking of.

I know that early ones 'can' be removed, however despite having owned many early Warwicks I've never had a duff truss rod. There are reports of failures with some alloy rods in early basses but they should have been sorted by now or they just aren't likely to fail by now. I knew that rods in some basses toward the back end of the 90's couldn't be removed easily and that would tally with the addition of the volute around that time. The odd thing with Warwick is that there is so much transition between models/years/upgrades that as you say Mart there isn't a definitive answer re. any aspect of Warwick ownership. I was asked a question recently re. the profile of Warwick necks and they are so varied that it is literally impossible to give a definitve answer.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1331845497' post='1579919'] [size=5][sup]I use TF and Ag cabs...and they sound great. Hard to get a bad sound out of the amp..and I hardly touch the EQ.[/sup][/size] [/quote] Ditto! I'm using the 550 and a pair of DB112s I can't imagine anything better and it took me several years of trialling Neo driver loaded cabs and class D heads to arrive at the conclusion that they just didn't do it for me despite my wanting to shed as much weight as possible from my rig... I don't need to compromise with the TF/Aggies!

I've heard of folk tag welding a nut or socket on the end of the existing (knackered) socket but it would be a fine job and you'd need to ensure you didn't burn any of the headstock. It'd be interesting to know when they stopped (or which models aren't removable) doing the removable rods!

'Most' Warwick truss rods are user removable (ie no need to be thinking of taking the fingerboard off etc.) so worst case scenario you can replace the rod and they aren't mega expensive. Loads of info on the Warwick forum about the various models and how to remove them. It always amazes me how many people will just grab the chattiest Allen key and rive away at a truss rod rather than spend a little time (and only a couple £) to get the correct size key (you can get a pukka 'W' T bar but they are expensive when a good Allen key will do).

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1331758146' post='1578526'] This is a bit difficult to describe but imagine the socket 'tip' contact. The plug is inserted and the shape of the tip initially pushes the socket contact out of the way. When the plug is fully home the socket contact springs back a little bit into the 'groove' of the plug tip. The socket contact not only makes electrical contact but it also holds the plug in place. All well and good. But, over time, the socket contact may lose its 'springyness'. So, the plug is inserted and the tip pushes the socket contact out of the way as normal. but when the plug is fully inserted, the socket contact doesn't spring back far enough to make contact with the 'groove' of the plug tip - so the cable doesn't work. However, if the plug is pulled slightly out of the socket, the wider part of the plug tip again makes contact with the socket contact - then the cable works. The solution is to slightly bend the socket contact so that it sticks further out into the socket shaft and will once again make contact with the 'groove' of the plug tip when fully inserted. But if the contact has lost all springyness then a new socket is needed. [/quote] Doesn't work with the type that is generally fitted into Warwick basses as they are sealed and can't be bent back to make contact! [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-WARWICK-INPUT-STEREO-JACK-SPW50100C-1-4-6-3mm-STREAMER-THUMB-GUITAR-PART-/360441851869?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item53ec022fdd"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-WARWICK-INPUT-STEREO-JACK-SPW50100C-1-4-6-3mm-STREAMER-THUMB-GUITAR-PART-/360441851869?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item53ec022fdd[/url]

[quote name='The Bass Doc' timestamp='1331753313' post='1578385'] Possible explanation - the first (quick?) test carried out with the jack plug not pushed fully home. Just a thought. [/quote] Good point! Always best not to assume.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1331751869' post='1578349'] I'm not a Warwick user but, in fairness to them, it's pretty much a universal issue with that particular design of socket. I love then and hate them equally. [/quote] I know what you mean but honestly, the original 'W' sockets rarely last long and yet Switchcraft replacements tend to last... well I've got Switchcrafts that are now 15+ year old (conversely I once got some genuine 'W' replacements as part of a deal and I've replaced 2 out of 3 of those within a year or two). [quote name='BRANCINI' timestamp='1331752299' post='1578355'] Dunno anything about Warks, but it sounds to me like you have fitted a stereo socket and used the wrong terminal for the tip. Stereo sockets are sometimes used as a switch, ie, when you plug a mono lead in, the middle ring gets connected to the outer. Just a thought. [/quote] It does sound like it but I'd have said that if that was the case then it wouldn't have worked when he originally tested it!

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1331741362' post='1578116'] EDIT: It's possible to damage those sockets if you overheat them whilst soldering. [/quote] +1 As a long term Warwick user, I can confirm that Warwick barrel jacks are/can be as much use as chocolate fireguards. However, as to your problem; if you have fitted a decent quality jack socket (I'll assume that it is a good quality sealed barrel type) and soldered it correctly (it has worked so I'd assume so), I'd certainly be considering whether you've appled excessive heat and/or for a prolonged period and the internal insulating spacers have deformed and are shorting out. Only you will know how much grief, if any, it gave you to fit the socket, so that may give you a clue as to if that is the problem. It isn't unheard of for brand new components to fail and that could equally be the issue. Just out of interest the end of the barrel jack isn't shorting on an internal pot/component... actually scratch that as you described that pulling the jack plug part of the way out solved it which means that it is internal to the new component.

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1331669002' post='1576990'] Not that Howard needs any more positive feedback, but having sent him a few bits of vintage Rickenbacker/Rickenfaker/Rickalike a month or so back, I wasn't overly optimistic that the sum of the parts would add up to much. Needless to say I'm now the proud owner of a rather nice sounding - and more importantly extremely well rebuilt and set-up - 4001-alike. To be honest, there's no better way to get your bass work done; stick it in a box, send it to Howard, and hey presto, a couple of weeks latter back comes the same box with a somewhat nicer instrument inside! It's like waking up on Xmas morning! [/quote] Newcastle folklore tells of a man taking an old scratchplate screw to Howie and later that day Howie emerged from his den with a completed 60's Jazz! ...it's true I tell you!