warwickhunt

what's with these *ipb* files that everyone is posting? My PC isn't liking those at all or is it some conversion that my browser is doing?

Get another 400RB! Honestly! As a former user you are probably well aware that they are cracking amps and punch way above their ratings... in fact if the budget allows get the 800RB.

[quote name='nickhuge' timestamp='1325265268' post='1481538'] ok so the cab is rated at 400W RMS and the ampeg is a 450Watt head. How concerned do I need to be about blowing the speakers? Whats the best preventative measure? Less gain? Less master? [/quote] Not even something to consider tbh! Have a look at the 'stickie' re ratings etc and you'll get the gist!

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1325245998' post='1481239'] And I'll be trying to find them... but my 2x210's walk all over the 2x112's. I wouldn't use them singularly and I love the footprint of the 12's..and also need that at times...and the low end is better, or rather bigger, but that isn't something I need in the context of the band. And I wouldn't say the 2x210's are light in that area anyway..just the 12's are probably bordering on excessive. Where the 10's score massivley is the precision and cut in the higher mids. The 12's don't have this clout..and I'll need to EQ it in..whereas the 10's don't need it..at all. I'll continue to search for single 12's and use them paired and see if I can close the gap, but IMO, it is a BIG gap. Also, to get the kind of bite I want, the 12's can only compete when with a new set of strings..and then the sound is very pleasing..but I can't be doing with liveing up a pr of cabs with strings changes all the time It isn't the low-end that is the problem it is the clarity and definition higher up and both have tweeters as well. . The 2x210 is my fave config..and as close to the 410 sound I prefer without the weight. I consider 2x12 the compromise. One that can work, of course, but a compromise all the same, Basically, I think if you tune the cab too low you suffer elsewhere. [/quote] You seem to be making a sweeping generalisation about all 2x10s and all 1x12s! If you are comparing one manufacturer's 2x10 v their own 1x12 there 'may' be a case but even then I'm not sure that rule can be applied.

T'bird seems to be the 'in thing' at the moment. Even Tom Petersson of Cheap Trick has gone to Lull to get a sig T'bird bass... not one for the slappers!

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1325241209' post='1481189'] It isn't a Silver Series either. [/quote] LOL didn't even see that!

[quote name='nickhuge' timestamp='1325240374' post='1481175'] No idea what you're talking about :-D But thanks! [/quote] Among the many (and spurious) figures quoted by the manufacturers, you'll find a sensitivity rating; it could be anywhere from low mid 90s up to about 104+ and is generally expressed in db. However... as with any stats given you need to be careful as they can be quoted as 'continuous' 'broadband' 'peak' etc! A 104db sensitive cab will generally sound a bit louder than a 94 db cab and a 4ohm cab can 'generally' sound louder than an 8ohm cab (blimey this is hard working when you have to make so many caveats), so essentially a 4ohm high sensitivity cab will sound louder with the same given input (though obviously amps are equipped with a magic knob that can make them louder or quieter) than a 4ohm less sensitive cab. Which brings us back to the fact that a sensitive 8ohm cab can sound as loud (with the same given input... following ) as a less sensitive 4ohm cab! Phew!

It's now been over a month since I contacted you re. the problems, please respond before I leave details for the BC populace.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1325239510' post='1481159'] The SVT III Pro is on full power at 4 ohms, so to get the full power into your cab you need a 4 ohm cab, but to have the option of a bigger rig and hooking up with another cab later on, you need an 8 ohm cab. Something to look at here would be the dB rating of the cab itself. 350 watts at 8 ohms into a cab rated at 104dB will likely be louder than the 500 watts at 4 ohms into a cab rated at 99dB from the same amp. A generalisation I know, but it`s dB that is the "real power". [/quote] Agreed, I'd go for a more sensitive 8ohm cab every time as it gives you the option to add a 2nd cab when needed and you'd likely not hear any difference in output over the 4ohm cab... mind saying that, I've had cabs throw up strange anomalies but by and large I'd go with the rule Lozz has indicated.

Well it'd be interesting to test him on his offer of 'money back' but who's definition of; 'as good as a USA Fender bass' and which USA Fender bass, as I've played some crackers... and some dogs! Oh and it does boil my urine when people claim Squier basses from the 90s are 'JV' series... they are NOT. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Squier-Precision-Bass-JV-Silver-series-1993-/230724106692?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item35b83a79c4#ht_500wt_1413"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Squier-Precision-Bass-JV-Silver-series-1993-/230724106692?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item35b83a79c4#ht_500wt_1413[/url]

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1325157060' post='1480287'] IME, a good set of 210's paried slays 2x112 .. [/quote] Ooof, even for an 'IME' that's a sweeping generalisation and to use the term 'slay'! I've owned and tried some very good 2x10 cabs and I've also owned and tried similarly good 1x12 cabs and I'd not be so confident in making that statement; there are 1x12 cabs available that are easily the equal of the 2x10 cabs.

The preamp circuit on Warwicks (99.9% likely an MEC on a 94 but regardless...) is generally pretty noise free and even when cranked all the way up I've never had induced hum. Need a bit more info really but a couple things to consider; are you playing near strip/fluorescent lighting or dimmer switches and/or is does the place you are playing your bass have a history of dodgy electrics? Have you tried the bass in other locations and/or with other amps? Are you saying that the 'bass' is producing hum even when the treble control isn't up? You may well have a wiring or preamp fault but I'd eliminate all other possibilities first.

...giving a member a chance before I do! Either respond to my calls and last email (regardless of your 'personal' circumstances) or I'll take appropriate action and also leave you negative feedback.

[quote name='eubassix' timestamp='1325165598' post='1480407'] Is it possible to list @ US$ within the UK ? :- [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140668982099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649"]http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1438.l2649[/url] Item location is Chicester (aka. Chichester), W. Sussex .. BUT Post(s) to: United States I've seen this type of thing before. Always a scam?? [/quote] Not always a scam. I used to sell stuff in Europe (exclusively as I got more for it than in the UK) and my listings were in Euro. 'If' I were interested in the bass I'd be asking for detailed pics and as for the timber purchased; I don't think that will be the bass he is selling, it may be he has had a go at making a bass and hence selling the Zon... but I'd seriously either want to see the bass or at least loads of detailed pics.

It's 'likely' that if WoT went for this and wanted it refinishing he'd go to The Overwater Custom Shop (Dave is a member on here and ex-Overwater finisher now doing work for Sobell Guitars and artists like M Knopfler) and I think £400 is about the going rate for a quality refin.

I feel a trip to Haltwhistle coming on Michael! LOL

Looks like I'm the first to say 'OBBM'!

I had an Audere in one of my basses and I know what you mean about it sounding 'active' BUT... it came into its own in a live setting, really lifted it head and shoulders above other active preamps; added to which when recording or noodling in the house you can tame some of the 'active' with the EQ. However, weight is something you can't do anything about, that and if that hadn't been blue, I'd have been sniffing at it!

Well it is up to £50 so it's either a canny joke, an expensive empty box or a very cheap Ampeg cab!