warwickhunt

Just wondered if you build guys can offer me some advice/ranting? I have a Galveston 12 string bass (BO neck) [IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/100_2160.jpg[/IMG] ...and I'd LOVE a Hamer B12A [IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/hamerb12a.jpg[/IMG] I wondered about the feasibility of taking the neck, hardware, electrics etc and making/getting a body in the style of the Hamer (obviously bolting the neck on as opposed to the Hamer's NT). I haven't fully thought through the fact that the Hamer is a Single-Cut, and how that impacts on bolting on the neck; the upper bout need not meet/touch it could be floating with a near invisible gap... help! Are there any obvious reasons why this would be a non-starter (bearing in mind there is no 'budget' Hamer B12A and the real deal will cost £2000+)?

Cheers people. I've got my head around uses for the various groups/buses and on most gigs I'm unlikely to use them other than to be able to tweak the level of all of the drums/vocals etc. I now understand though that I can pan a channel full left/right (labelled odd/even) and it'll assign the channel to group 1/2/3/4 depending upon button selection and then I can pan that group in the mix. Really nice desk and will mean that I no longer have to link x2 12 channel desks together. 4 monitor opportunities and 2 effects is a god-send as well.

I assume your B12 is the double cut model as opposed to the SC 'acoustic-look'? Can't believe Fender, that is so cr*p that it is too similar to their models! I'm keeping my eyes open for a Tom Petersson model (Hamer or otherwise) and funnily enough I have someone who will likely want this Galveston when I do.

I prefer the feel/tone of nickels so I'll not likely look a steels. Yes it is that Galveston; it has a wide flat neck (I'd not have expected a lesser wide neck considering what has to fit across it) and there is a little bit of neck dive but it isn't that bad and a wide (non-slip) strap virtually sorts that. The action on arrival was a bit much for me but I've now got it set up so that it isn't any more than my 4 strings. Intonation looks like it'll be OK to do (separate saddles for the drone/octave strings) but the little nut that sits the other end of the adjuster screw needs to be gripped while adjusting... not easily done with all of the strings on, so when I fit new strings I'll try and get it as close to what I expect before I string it and bring it up to tension. Research seems to show that the Galveston is made in the same factory as a lot of these cheaper 12s and the bridge unit is the same on all of them inc Dean basses. Just need to find a 'real-I-am' Hamer B12 now!

Sorry I (wrongly) assumed that we were talking of a 'Fender' bass, whereas this doesn't profess to be a Fender (though the Gumtree ad does clearly state Fender) and is in fact just a cheap P bass copy. The ZZ Top reference is spurious at best!

[quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1329313638' post='1540452'] Mine works without a battery, but then it's a $$. Not sure about other active models. [/quote] [quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1329313671' post='1540455'] ... there are a couple of exceptions (the most noticeable is the $$) to the rule! [/quote] Synchronised posting!

[quote name='throwoff' timestamp='1329312691' post='1540438'] Leftyhooks vette (used to be mine!) has passive pups so should work without a battery. [/quote] 'If' the pups are true passive and not the MEC active pups then yes it should work when/if a battery dies (assuming it has the push/pull pot to bypass the EQ) but the easiest way to establish is simply to unplug the battery and try the bass; as I said in my OP there are a couple of exceptions (the most noticeable is the $$) to the rule!

Thanks for that Alan I appreciate you looking into that but I think I'll go for a set of D'Addario's @ £25; a set of SIT's would be almost a 1/3 of the value of the bass! Cheers.

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Always a huge downer when anyone's pride and joy is stolen, more so when it was given to you by your father but I can't help thinking that it is wishful thinking to imagine that your average Joe in a guitar/pawn shop in the States is going to spot a Yamaha BB bass as being rare "[color=#000000][left]the silver lining is that it's easily recognizable. The fact that it is [/left][/color][i]so[/i][color=#000000][left] rare and [/left][/color][i]so [/i][color=#000000][left]unique means she could spot it easily -- and so could guitar shops"... OBVIOUSLY a Yamaha fanatic might be able to tell it is rare but I doubt even 1% of the bass playing community might know so.[/left][/color][/font][/size] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000][left]Obviously I genuinely hope that they get the bass back though! [/left][/color][/font][color=#000000][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][/font][/color][color=#000000][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][/font][/color][color=#000000][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][left] [/left][/font][/color] [url="http://blogs.sfweekly.com/thesnitch/2012/02/evanescence_bass_player_heartb.php"]http://blogs.sfweekly.com/thesnitch/2012/02/evanescence_bass_player_heartb.php[/url]

No need to order a special tool from Warwick, any good quality allen key 'of the correct size' will do the job. You can buy a set of 10 various sized keys for less than it would cost you for the Warwick tool or alternatively just get the one key of a pro quality like 'Snap-On' and it'll last you a life time.

I don't have one in front of me but it is just a standard size (6mm sounds about right but I'd need to confirm that)! I'd suggest that someone has been using either the incorrect size or they've been using cheap allen keys and chewed up the socket. One thing to consider is that it isn't inconceivable that your rod operates in the reverse to the norm (I've owned several basses inc' one in my position now that are 'reversed') and right is to loosen the truss rod; just go slowly and check in case!

Can't say that I ever remember a Fender Dusty Hill sig bass! I'd imagine it'd be a Tele/P bass model but ZZ Top have been using Bolin instruments for a while (not as early as the 80's though ).

Fretting the note requires you to place the finger slightly more over the string so that your tips also fret the octave strings but it isn't 'that' different from normal, though I have to confess that trying to do a one finger one fret chromatic walk up the neck requires a bit more pressure than normal! Tuning isn't so bad you just need to tune the first string (say the E's) sharp, then the A strings less sharp then the D less so and by the time you get to the G strings the others are virtually pulled into tune; a quick tweak and job done!

I'll give it a polish when the new strings go on!

[IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/100_2160.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/100_2161.jpg[/IMG]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Just taken delivery of [color=#000000][left]my new/used Galveston 12 string and despite rusty strings I'm chugging through these Cheap Trick songs like a good un... along with the obligatory 'Jeremy'![/left][/color][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000][left]Took 15 minutes to get the action down from the Double Bass height that it was, to something closer to my usual and though intonation as all over the place, I'm not going to spend a lot of time on that aspect as these old strings will be going and then I'll do a full set-up. [/left][/color][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000][left]Obviously it requires a lot of adaptation of technique; aside from the muckle wide neck and neck dive, you need to get a bit more of the meat of your finger 'over' the bass string to depress the pairs of octave strings and (luckily) you'll never be attempting slap attack![/left][/color] [color=#000000][left]The upside is that you go back to the four after this and it's like a toy. [/left][/color][/font][/size][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000][/color][/font][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000][left] [/left][/color][/font][/size]

Be aware that when the battery goes in your Warwick bass, your stops working... regardless of passive mode! Not a lot of people realise that it's only the $$ + one or two others that are truly passive when battery dies. The way to check is to remove your battery and try to use it; you'll likely find that there is no output. This is due to the fact that your pups (with the exception of the $$ as indicated) have a preamp built in and as such need power to work. As for time that they last; ages! I tend to fit new batteries at Christmas (present to your bass) and even when I was gigging just one of my basses, a couple times a week (+rehearsals and home use), I still had plenty juice in the battery after a year (use the discarded batteries in your non-essential items like a tuner).

I've done this (with my Infinette) and the capo doesn't affect the balance as the capo needn't be any chunkier than a standard guitar one (I bought a capo designed for the slightly wider neck of a 12 string guitar). Go for it.

Nice one mate and as others have said hope you get the gear back asap!

[quote name='eParrot' timestamp='1329049707' post='1536411'] Old thread but... I recently bought an Ibanez sr-500 and I'm in love with it. I noticed that the sound would cut off when tugging the cable the 'wrong' way and actually ordered a Neutrik stereo jack and started looking for my good old soldering iron. I tried a couple of different cables that are part of my bass kit with same problem. Now, this morning I decided to dig out an old Whirlwind Leader cable from my guitar gear (sorry, I'm a guitarist really - nobody's perfect) and bingo! Try as I might to get it to misbehave, it's rock solid. So the message is: the plugs are 'standard' but the tip shape varies a lot between manufacturers. It so happens that the old Leader just fits, so I'll be keeping the new jack as a spare. For now. [/quote] Yes, it is a fact that for all 1/4" jack plugs are meant to be the same size, some do vary in size. I had a mare with Planet Waves cables and one of my basses, swore I'd never have another yet a mate reckons that it is the perfect lead and sorted out the problem of cutting out on his bass. Only thing I'd add is; if eParrot ever turns up to a gig and his WW lead is missing he'll be shafted if he has to use another brand!

Pleasure meeting with you Dave (and many thanks again for bringing the desk in person). Does the rack tray idea look like it will work for you?

Not the same as Sunbeams but if you want to try different nickels you could do worse than try the Hartke strings (£4-£5 on ebay) and a similar price are Rosetti strings.