warwickhunt

Real shame Clarky! Never mind, you know what they say; As one door closes, another slams shut in your face... hang on that's not right! Onwards and upwards matey.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1329502639' post='1543566'] I'm fairly positive it is genuine. [/quote] The bass? The headstock looks the wrong shape (the G tuner is skew-whiff, though they do look like MM branded ones) and fake tattoos are easy to come by; the neck plate is all wrong (aside from the fact it isn't a MM plate it looks the wrong size and shape)... isn't it? The bridge also looks cheap even though the mounting screws are located as per MM, the addition in front of the bridge is immaterial. I genuinely had that tagged as a fake and wouldn't have touched with a BP at 100 paces!

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1329503100' post='1543578'] You realise that in three weeks time you will be announcing that you've changed your main gig to be a 3-piece blues band with one vocalist? [/quote] Fingers crossed it doesn't happen... though it will be overkill for the Cheap Trick tribute I have put together!

Can I clarify... that was NOT a Stingray? I only ask as the buyer (£700+) has left positive feedback! Now if this is a genuine buyer (as opposed to the buyer/seller leaving each other feedback to boost ratings or knowing each other), I'm tempted to contact him and point out that he has been fleeced but wonder if he is better left in blissful ignorance... until he comes to sell it!

Bought a 12 string bass from Steve and it was a trouble free deal. Cheers.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1329482323' post='1543087'] Yeah looks pretty doable. A shot of the heel would be nice. Although the beauty of a one off job like this would be that you could shape the recess to fit whatever it is to be mated to. Not knowing the original, I presumed that it would have been chambered but looking at all that metal at the head it might knock the balance off. [/quote] The Hamer body is solid mahogany (not too thick tbh). Info and pics on the Hamer site as well as here... [url="http://www.12stringbass.net/"]http://www.12stringbass.net/[/url] Is it possible to give me a guesstimate as to the cost of a replacement body (likely with a nice top finished in 59 burst) and the whole lot assembled (bridge requires a rout into body).

Considering that if I want it to look tidy I might put a flame/quilt top... in which case is it worth chambering the body to keep weight down (leaving the centre section solid as there'd be a lot of tension between bridge and neck), especially as balance has been corrected by insetting the neck a bit further! However, I'm aware that a fancy veneer top (finished in a tasty 59 burst or similar to the Hamer above) will start to push the overall budget, which I'm trying to keep tight reins on; need to research the cost of the body blank and the cost of a top and spray finish.

[i]It might be hard to strike a balance between that and the right look, as the more you go into the body, the worse the upper fret access will be, if you keep the Hamer shape as is.[/i] Agree but if upper fret access is the main consideration then it is 'likely' less of an issue on an instrument like a 12 string. [i]Keeping the normal style bolt-on neck joint and carving the body to suit. Something that you would have to do, seeing as the neck is already carved.[/i] Agree again, as I am using a pre-existing neck I'd have to do it.

Further thoughts - If I set the bridge/tailpiece as far back to the edge of the body as possible then I could get the neck set further into the body and thus the top strap button would be nearer the 12th fret to assist balance/neck dive.

[quote name='eude' timestamp='1329475750' post='1542941'] Give Rich (Ou7shined) a shout, he might be able to help out... [/quote] Done!

Just wondered if you build guys can offer me some advice/ranting? I have a Galveston 12 string bass (BO neck) [IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/100_2160.jpg[/IMG] ...and I'd LOVE a Hamer B12A [IMG]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/warwickhunt/hamerb12a.jpg[/IMG] I wondered about the feasibility of taking the neck, hardware, electrics etc and making/getting a body in the style of the Hamer (obviously bolting the neck on as opposed to the Hamer's NT). I haven't fully thought through the fact that the Hamer is a Single-Cut, and how that impacts on bolting on the neck; the upper bout need not meet/touch it could be floating with a near invisible gap... help! Are there any obvious reasons why this would be a non-starter (bearing in mind there is no 'budget' Hamer B12A and the real deal will cost £2000+)?

Cheers people. I've got my head around uses for the various groups/buses and on most gigs I'm unlikely to use them other than to be able to tweak the level of all of the drums/vocals etc. I now understand though that I can pan a channel full left/right (labelled odd/even) and it'll assign the channel to group 1/2/3/4 depending upon button selection and then I can pan that group in the mix. Really nice desk and will mean that I no longer have to link x2 12 channel desks together. 4 monitor opportunities and 2 effects is a god-send as well.

I assume your B12 is the double cut model as opposed to the SC 'acoustic-look'? Can't believe Fender, that is so cr*p that it is too similar to their models! I'm keeping my eyes open for a Tom Petersson model (Hamer or otherwise) and funnily enough I have someone who will likely want this Galveston when I do.

I prefer the feel/tone of nickels so I'll not likely look a steels. Yes it is that Galveston; it has a wide flat neck (I'd not have expected a lesser wide neck considering what has to fit across it) and there is a little bit of neck dive but it isn't that bad and a wide (non-slip) strap virtually sorts that. The action on arrival was a bit much for me but I've now got it set up so that it isn't any more than my 4 strings. Intonation looks like it'll be OK to do (separate saddles for the drone/octave strings) but the little nut that sits the other end of the adjuster screw needs to be gripped while adjusting... not easily done with all of the strings on, so when I fit new strings I'll try and get it as close to what I expect before I string it and bring it up to tension. Research seems to show that the Galveston is made in the same factory as a lot of these cheaper 12s and the bridge unit is the same on all of them inc Dean basses. Just need to find a 'real-I-am' Hamer B12 now!

Sorry I (wrongly) assumed that we were talking of a 'Fender' bass, whereas this doesn't profess to be a Fender (though the Gumtree ad does clearly state Fender) and is in fact just a cheap P bass copy. The ZZ Top reference is spurious at best!

[quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1329313638' post='1540452'] Mine works without a battery, but then it's a $$. Not sure about other active models. [/quote] [quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1329313671' post='1540455'] ... there are a couple of exceptions (the most noticeable is the $$) to the rule! [/quote] Synchronised posting!

[quote name='throwoff' timestamp='1329312691' post='1540438'] Leftyhooks vette (used to be mine!) has passive pups so should work without a battery. [/quote] 'If' the pups are true passive and not the MEC active pups then yes it should work when/if a battery dies (assuming it has the push/pull pot to bypass the EQ) but the easiest way to establish is simply to unplug the battery and try the bass; as I said in my OP there are a couple of exceptions (the most noticeable is the $$) to the rule!

Thanks for that Alan I appreciate you looking into that but I think I'll go for a set of D'Addario's @ £25; a set of SIT's would be almost a 1/3 of the value of the bass! Cheers.

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Always a huge downer when anyone's pride and joy is stolen, more so when it was given to you by your father but I can't help thinking that it is wishful thinking to imagine that your average Joe in a guitar/pawn shop in the States is going to spot a Yamaha BB bass as being rare "[color=#000000][left]the silver lining is that it's easily recognizable. The fact that it is [/left][/color][i]so[/i][color=#000000][left] rare and [/left][/color][i]so [/i][color=#000000][left]unique means she could spot it easily -- and so could guitar shops"... OBVIOUSLY a Yamaha fanatic might be able to tell it is rare but I doubt even 1% of the bass playing community might know so.[/left][/color][/font][/size] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000][left]Obviously I genuinely hope that they get the bass back though! [/left][/color][/font][color=#000000][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][/font][/color][color=#000000][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][/font][/color][color=#000000][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][left] [/left][/font][/color] [url="http://blogs.sfweekly.com/thesnitch/2012/02/evanescence_bass_player_heartb.php"]http://blogs.sfweekly.com/thesnitch/2012/02/evanescence_bass_player_heartb.php[/url]

No need to order a special tool from Warwick, any good quality allen key 'of the correct size' will do the job. You can buy a set of 10 various sized keys for less than it would cost you for the Warwick tool or alternatively just get the one key of a pro quality like 'Snap-On' and it'll last you a life time.

I don't have one in front of me but it is just a standard size (6mm sounds about right but I'd need to confirm that)! I'd suggest that someone has been using either the incorrect size or they've been using cheap allen keys and chewed up the socket. One thing to consider is that it isn't inconceivable that your rod operates in the reverse to the norm (I've owned several basses inc' one in my position now that are 'reversed') and right is to loosen the truss rod; just go slowly and check in case!

Can't say that I ever remember a Fender Dusty Hill sig bass! I'd imagine it'd be a Tele/P bass model but ZZ Top have been using Bolin instruments for a while (not as early as the 80's though ).

Fretting the note requires you to place the finger slightly more over the string so that your tips also fret the octave strings but it isn't 'that' different from normal, though I have to confess that trying to do a one finger one fret chromatic walk up the neck requires a bit more pressure than normal! Tuning isn't so bad you just need to tune the first string (say the E's) sharp, then the A strings less sharp then the D less so and by the time you get to the G strings the others are virtually pulled into tune; a quick tweak and job done!

I'll give it a polish when the new strings go on!