warwickhunt

I've swapped MEC's and EMG's in and out of the same Warwick Streamer bass and I can categorically state... I didn't notice a gnat's chuff of difference! Now that is hardly scientific because you have to remember that when I played the bass with the swapped (and swapped back) pups, an hour or so had passed and my ears may have been unable to perceive the difference but there in lies the point; I couldn't personally perceive any difference so it's unlikely Joe Public who has never heard me or my bass before would know the difference. Just as an aside, I seem to recall that the whole point of MEC pups in Warwick basses was because there was grief with the licensing between Spector and Warwick and it included the use of EMG pups in the early Warwick basses, added to which the cost of Warwick buying EMGs in rather than fitting their own 'version' of the EMG produced in-house, meant that it made sense for Warwick to purchase a pup manufacturing company (MEC). It would make sense that any pup produced to replace the fitting of EMGs might sound a bit like the pup they were replacing. I do have to confess that having owned both Spectors and Warwicks (thru neck models) there is a definite difference in tone between the basses from the two manufacturers but there again, there is a difference between the Spectors and the Spectors (or the Warwicks and the Warwicks) that I've owned. In summary; I doubt very much whether you could get the Warwick to sound exactly like the Spector or vice-versa, regardless of pup (even preamp) selection/swapping because they are two different instruments made out of wood and that's the point... they are different!

If you don't tinker and are set on one gauge of strings then I'd personally go for a well cut well fitted nut BUT if you tinker and adjusting your relief/action or are into changing gauges for differing situations then they can be a good thing. I have the JAN I nut on my Warwicks and I love it and I'm a bit peeved that I don't have one on another of my basses as I'm going to have to knock the nut of and shim/file it. As has been said, the JAN II is probably best avoided!

Well the bass is packed and off back to the seller tomorrow so watch ebay for the re-emergence of this bass... and lets see how honest he is!

[quote name='overwater' post='1224861' date='May 9 2011, 10:46 AM']Hello, I spotted this thread - it is one of our basses, but would say from what I can see it dates back to the late 80's - so over twenty years old. Although it is difficult to tell without seeing it in the flesh, it looks like it has either had some sort of severe trauma at some stage, or been exposed to extreem heat or cold - which ever, it looks like there may be some cracks in the wood as well as glue joints coming apart. If the owner would like to get it back to us, I could see if there is something that could be done - though I suspect it would need the fingerboard removing and replacing at the very least - but it could possibly be brought back, depending on what's happened to it.. Hope this is of some help, Chris May (Overwater Basses)[/quote] Thanks for responding Chris and very admirable for even taking the time to check this out. I'd agree that it seems to be trauma cracks and/or issues with the fingerboard delamination. Even though I presently have the bass in my possession it'll be going back to the guy who I purchased it from as I very much doubt that the offer to examine/remedy the issues would be done free of charge, under an extended warranty... that would be some after-care service! Paying to have this repaired wasn't part of the deal I had in mind when I purchased it, so though I appreciate the offer to assist, I'll have to decline and pass this bass back to the seller.

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='1224573' date='May 8 2011, 09:54 PM']A bit OT but what's your Avatar bass? Never seen the Corvette shape with f-holes before, me likey![/quote] Officially named the Streamer Corvette but affectionately known on the Warwick forum as the Infinette, as it predates the Infinity series (and any of the Corvettes) and was released as a Ltd Ed in 91. It has the concave/convex contours and NT of the early Warwicks but the outline of the later Corvette.

Oh and it has a long way to run before we find out if it is a bargain or not. ;0)

[quote name='Bankai' post='1224399' date='May 8 2011, 07:27 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Precision-Bass-/120719331852?_trksid=p5197.m8&_trkparms=algo%3DMW%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D10%26po%3DLCA%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9011074937489073335"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Precision-Bas...074937489073335[/url] Gggggooood deal?[/quote] Possibly... is it yours? However, I have to say that a low feedback rating and some vague description wouldn't inspire me unless I could see it in person. The old ebay chat that rings alarm bells are as follows; [i]'I am told that this Fender Precision Bass is a late 1970’s model (serial number: S888563).'[/i] - The seller isn't SAYING that it is a late 70's Precision, simply that they've been told that it is; ebay get out clause #42. [i]'I do not play myself, but my local guitar shop has checked it over and all they did was give the frets a slight grind.'[/i] - You have to ask your self if they don't play how the hell have they got it for sale, there could be genuine reasons but it rings alarm bells. [i] 'You can see from the photo that the covers are missing, but otherwise I understand that all parts are original.'[/i] - "I understand..." ebay get out clause #36 [i]'...but I do not have an amp or a lead!'[/i] - see 2nd comment above. On the plus side they are happy for collection and they have given a serial number but serial numbers are easily replicated/falsified. Not saying that it isn't genuine but the above would have me questioning the seller. BTW if it is yours... see above!

[quote name='Soloshchenko' post='1223684' date='May 7 2011, 09:30 PM']Good to hear you got your cash back.[/quote] Technically I haven't as yet but I've quoted ebay rules at him and opened a dispute so he has to refund me; however, it will cost me as I have to foot the return postage to him! So it's cost me £25 because the tw4t couldn't be honest in his listing... though if he had been honest then nobody would have bid on it!

If you see this bass appear on eBay and it looks like a bit of a bargain... stay clear! I've admired these Progress basses since cd_david got his many moons back and when this was going on ebay recently I had a silly last minute bid and got it for £460. Bargain, or so it appeared! It duly arrived quite promptly but on initial inspection I thought that the action appeared quite excessive and closer inspection showed what appeared to be lacquer cracks on the back of the headstock! I gave the bass 24hrs to settle into the house climate then had another look at it. The neck appeared to have an awful lot of give in it (i.e. not much pressure was required to grip the neck and pull it straight/flat). I then started examining the bass more closely and found cracks in the lacquer running the length of the neck fingerboard joint, not good. I contacted the seller who basically said 'so what, it's an expensive bass and you got it cheap' at no point did he question the cracks nor make any suggestions that it could have happened in transit, he even went so far as to say I should have seen the cracks in his photographs ( you decide [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290559450320&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT[/url] )! I decided then that the bass had too many flaws and potential problems to warrant keeping it so I requested a refund.; he said not a problem as he'd resell on ebay for more money; I pointed out that I hoped he'd mention the cracks but got no response! Any way... if you see this bass reappear on ebay be aware that the neck is chunky yet feels as whippy as a whippy thing and the cracks running the length of the neck fingerboard joint and from around the nut extending to the back of the headstock, point to potential problems. Oh and the nut is an absolute dog's dinner, I've a feeling someone has been tinkering with it already.

I can't really comment on your Streamer Standard but if you are looking for something 'different' but want to retain what you have (and with Warwick values what they are) I'd be looking to save for a NT Streamer next if I were you.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1219972' date='May 4 2011, 03:35 PM']We occasionally have something on Tyneside. Maybe it's time...[/quote] Tis indeed!

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='1216917' date='May 1 2011, 09:26 PM']The way I figure it is if I reduce the input to the tube and turn off the boost I'll get a cleaner tone but by doing this I will also need to up the master to compensate. I'm assuming I might need to push the master quite high to achieve the same volume, but cleaner. Again, this is all based on the one gig so I might be jumping the gun a bit.[/quote] I've used WoT's amp (not in anger) and it should be easily achievable to get a clean tone with the input gain matched but not overdriven, thereby giving you loads of extra headroom. As you say, it'll be a case of trial and error to achieve what you want. However, from past experience it's better to get a nice health signal into an amp and then to give yourself room to manouver with the output.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='1216863' date='May 1 2011, 08:30 PM']I understand about too much volume can damage the speakers but the way I'm seeing it is [u]I want to be a le to reduce the input stage[/u] and have the gain button out, without loosing volume. I think to do this I need to turn the output up quite high to match the level with the button in and gain up at about 11 o'clock if that makes sence.[/quote] Why would you want to lower the input gain and balance it by increasing the output to where it is clipping? If the input is suitably matched to the output from your bass then you should have a nice healthy signal that need not be too thick as to sound overdriven. Sorry if I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to achieve.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1215532' date='Apr 30 2011, 09:05 AM']Hello! Dunno if you've seen these... [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/epifani-ul310-series-1-vs-series-2-a-563840/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/epifani-...ies-2-a-563840/[/url] [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/epifani-ul310-series-1-series-2-cabs-514881/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/epifani-...-2-cabs-514881/[/url][/quote] Cheers MB. I did do a search on TB but it's all down to the wording so I ended up trawling through loads of non-relevant stuff... which though not directly what I wanted to read was informative and filled in a bit of my morning!

Anybody had the opportunity to own or A/B these cabs? I can't find actual quotes anywhere but I seem to recall hearing a couple of years ago that the MkI was the better cab... any owners out there?

Going direct to Dave isn't as complex as you might think and he really tries to ensure you get what you want without paying more than you need to.

Joe just bought a flightcase from me and yet again it was a pleasure to meet a top BCer!