warwickhunt

[quote name='paulconnolly' timestamp='1322297328' post='1448954'] I beg to differ but there you go [/quote] Of course you can have a differing opinion and I'd that's the point of forums (especially this one), you can air your views and explain why you think something. So why should NHS moulds be better than Boots, Specsavers or any other audiologist fitting? I have had moulded plugs fitted and the moulding process couldn't be simpler and anyone with care and competence can take the mould. I concur you could get someone in a non-NHS situation who doesn't take care and may not be competent BUT it could be argued that an NHS employee could be equally incompetent; both parties need to be trained and at the end of the day if you are paying for the service (from either party) then you can demand that it is done again/effectively! No disrespect to your wife but NHS does not guarantee qualitythat would be greater then anywhere else though it could just as easily be the equal of. You pays your money...

[quote name='paulconnolly' timestamp='1322255060' post='1448775'] Sorry, should have mentioned but my wife is an audiologist and I was just curious to know where, how you got them and how much they cost. Discussions about hearing loss/protection etc.. always interest her from a professional point of view. She may be biased but she says try your local NHS Trust Audiology department. Not as widespread as Specsavers but they may be cheaper and the technical quality of the mould is likely to be better. [/quote] Local NHS audiology dept's taking custom moulds and selling them cheaper than Specsavers et al... 'technical' quality of the mould!

If it has to be a 4x10 don't dismiss the Peavey TX (TVX) 4x10 as it gives 99% of the SWR tone for a fraction of the price (especially used)... IMHO.

[quote name='paulconnolly' timestamp='1322247645' post='1448669'] Can I ask: How much do these cost? When you say moulded are they a "one size fits all" or specifically moulded to your ear shape like a hearing aid mould? If specifically moulded who does it and where do you go to get it done? [/quote] Specially moulded to your ear and many places do it (look in the yellow pages) but Specsavers on the local High St is as good as anywhere.

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1322246499' post='1448655'] Have you got an ER15s cloning lab going or something? I bought a spare set from you last year! [/quote] Specsavers apologised for messing up my moulds by giving me spare sets! As to needing more than 15db of reduction; obviously it is personal preference but if I were to use any more than 15db attenuation I think I'd be too isolated from the onstage mix. As for requiring more than 15db to prevent hearing damage; I'm not sure of the science/maths behind it but I'm confident that if you were playing so loud that 15db reduction wasn't sufficient then you'd be playing so loud that the difference between 15db and 24db wouldn't save your hearing... actually thinking of the maths side of it, I'm not sure that any cab/amp combination could go loud enough to damage your hearing whilst wearing 15db of attenuation.

[quote name='Coilte' timestamp='1322234613' post='1448397'] AFAIK these filters are interchangeable, so why not err on the side of caution and get both ? [/quote] If you get the 22db and don't like them I have a brand new (in packet) set of 15s for sale (Etymotic Research ones)!

My Mother and Father have no musical talent WHAT-SO-EVER... and neither have I so I concur with the OP!

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1321205721' post='1436443'] I've got a pair of SL 112's on loan at the moment. Cannot believe how light they are! Haven't had much time to really listen to them at any sort of volume yet though. [/quote] Be interested to see how you think the dinky 12s stack up against the DB12s.

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1322086339' post='1446471'] I actually think the quarter turn and leave it twenty four hours is nonsense. If it needs a quarter turn then fine but if it needs a half turn or more, then that's what it needs. [/quote] However... there are some necks/woods that react more slowly and over a greater period of time. If you need to go much past a half turn between set-ups then you are moving the neck a fair bit. If the neck was a slow mover and you crank it 1/2 to full turn you might find that initially you get the reaction that you want BUT 24hrs (or more) later the neck has moved even further and you have to adjust it back. I'm not saying that you are wrong and I certainly don't subscribe to a 1/4 turn then leave it 24hrs, as I'll tweak it a 1/2 turn or so but much past that and if it is a new bass to me then I'll leave it sitting a while with the strings up to tension before I have another look.

Of course there are exceptions to the rule, I've owned several 80's Warwick basses and the rods have worked the opposite way! My advice is always to take it a bit at a time and NEVER assume that 'righty is tighty'.

I've certainly heard many people profess that he is a leg end!

He used to be called Howard until folks saw him in a fight. Now he's just How...!

[quote name='blackmn90' timestamp='1321905152' post='1444333'] not saying this jazz bass is definately 100% original but check out the finish on this custom shop model in the link below, very similar in terms of colour around the edges [/quote] Link below?

The wear on the back of the neck doesn't fit with the wear elsewhere on the bass!

[quote name='GreeneKing' timestamp='1321729754' post='1442574'] I've been waiting on fitting some chrome Hipshot Ultralites to my pearl white Sterling 5 before I put some images up on this thread. I fitted them this week and so long as you don't look at the rear of the headstock the bass is now perfect. The dive I experienced was probably down to the lightness of the body as much as the heaviness of the neck (which has the same dimensions as the Stingray 5). Anyhow I weighed it today. 8.2 lbs. Result!! [/quote] 8.2lb for a Sterling 5... how come I can't find a bliddy 4 string Sterling that light!

I'm going through a similar situation at the moment trying to get a 12 string sound, using a 4 string bass (splitting the signal into 2 full range and sending one through octave and chorus then into guitar combo and the other signal dry into a bass rig). I'm intrigued by those who are doing as I am and simply splitting a full range signal and sending one signal to the bass rig and the other (possibly effected) going to a guitar rig, without any issues from the guitar rig getting such a saturation of low fundamentals. Maybe it is the guitar combo I am using but as soon as I start turning up volumes above quiet house volume the guitar combo starts to fart, I'd imagine due to the full range (ie really low notes) signal going into an open backed guitar cab... not good!

[quote name='Bassmurf' timestamp='1321724941' post='1442485'] One thing I used when I had my 8 string was to get a mono jack to stereo jack adapter then whacked it into the bass jack socket then one output went to my bass rig and then the other output to a guitar amp...did have many compliments on the sound! [/quote] I'd still have the problem outlined above, in that the guitar rig would be getting the full range (ie very LOW) signal from the bass and the guitar cab that I have just isn't coping with anything below about D (technically a lot lower when you consider the lower octaves being generated by the Boss pedal)!

Yes I noticed that on youtube, makes for an easy make-over for us on stage as well!

[quote name='12stringbassist' timestamp='1321721852' post='1442438'] The spillage from string impact between the pickups surely negates the individual outputs. [/quote] That was my thoughts.

[quote name='12stringbassist' timestamp='1321719170' post='1442390'] You would probably know TP has the luxury of three outputs, 3 wireless systems and 3 rigs onstage to cover all frequencies. [/quote] re. TP's rig - I remember reading about it back in the late 70's and even back then I wondered about the thought process behind it, I know it works for him and he's had plenty time/money/opportunity to refine it BUT... He has 3 outputs (one from each pick-up) going to various rigs but no signal splitter for frequencies (at least that I am aware of); I accept that sending any one of those pups to a bass rig is fine (he sends the neck I believe), however, he sends the bridge (and possibly middle iirc) pup to a guitar rig (is it a VOX AC30). Now by my reckoning no matter the fact that it is going from the bridge pup, it is not filtering all of the bass/low notes so his guitar set-up is still getting all of the lows that the bass rig is getting! Does that make sense? In essence I could understand if he had some magic system (I say 'magic' because it can't physically be done) that the neck pup 'heard' the bass strings and the other two pups 'heard' the guitar/octave strings but that can't happen. Just my musings on TP's rig which I know still works but doesn't strictly make scientific sense.

[quote name='12stringbassist' timestamp='1321719170' post='1442390'] Also - your rig will need to cope with it. You would probably know TP has the luxury of three outputs, 3 wireless systems and 3 rigs onstage to cover all frequencies. I just use this lot whenever there's space - does the job nicely at low volume. [/quote] I'm discovering the limitations of my first attempt at amplification... my (dry) bass rig + (wet) guitar combo isn't working when I wind the wick up. As the 12" speaker in the guitar combo is getting the full range signal from my bass + effects (inc' the Boss Octave which is reproducing octaves 'below' what I play) it is complaining as soon as start to go past living room level. Damn! It looks like to even run this until I source a suitable 12 I'll need to split the signal and send only the highs to the effects/guitar combo. Shame as I've bypassed the guitar combo and sent the full effected signal to my TF/Aguilar and it sounds BIG!