warwickhunt

[quote name='phatkat' timestamp='1317834616' post='1395207']I've had my ten year old ray for a few months now and love it, the actives were working fine so I have never felt the need to look at the battery until an hour ago, and I had a problem getting the battery out, it needed some persuasion with a plumbers wrench before it came out. The negative terminal is a bit corroded and green on the battery, ive fitted a new battery and its all working fine, should i replace the battery holder on the guitar and if so is it an easy job? G...[/quote]If you know the basics of soldering it is a doddle; either snipping 2 wires then stripping and resoldering to the new connector (if you have enough wire) or if your new terminal has wires connected it is even easier as you are snipping off the old and then joining the new wires to the old (so long as you have sufficient space to coil in the new wiring). You've no need to be going into the control pot section and unsoldering anything from there, it's just the actual snap on connector you are replacing. Be sure to get a decent battery connector as a cheapie that will flex/break/not grip is a nightmare.

have you tried/compared these Status strings before? I've used DR Sunbeams but I'm not prepared to pay the present prices, so I'm looking for decent nickel alternatives.

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1317757849' post='1394311'] What sort of detail differences did you see in the P pickups warwickhunt? And what sort of era RB was it? [/quote] IIRC the P pup was from another BCer (I'd already bought one MEC P out of a Streamer NT from a BCer) and when I asked for descriptions codes etc it apparently wasn't even active (could it have been a Dynamic Correction... do they even do a DC in P config) so I didn't even pursue the purchase. I did ask on the Warwick forum and I posed the same question about values of pups in cheap basses and I was informed that they weren't the same... how could they be as that would make a traversty of the relative values of instruments!

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1317795522' post='1394561'] I'm really tempted to go and see this just for the crack, but as I despise tyre kickers, I keep fighting the urge... [/quote] You haven't got time to go kicking tyres young fella me lad... or is this a new tactic to avoid 'other' duties!

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1317725958' post='1393655'] You seem to be wondering if you could buy a cheap Rockbass so as to get a pair of very expensive pickups. And the answer is, believe it or not, YES, you can! [/quote]I thought that Mart but my research (questions to Warwick and physically examing the pups) showed that the cheapest Rockbasses don't have the same pups as found in the German basses. There is some x-over with the earlier Corvette basses and the NT German basses but not the recent Rockbass. It's so vague as to what is available in which bass that I left well alone.

[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1317668909' post='1393102']Ah. I dont suppose you have some literature i could peruse regarding the matter, or is this something you've gleaned from years of experience?[/quote]Just donkey's years of owning Warwicks! As has been stated, new Warwick/MEC prices are 'mad' and there are so many variations that I'd not be buying a set of pups off an unknown source/bass unless I knew EXACTLY what I was getting. I recently acquired (then sold back to the owner) an MEC P pup and thought I could easily snag a second to drop into a PP bass but what a nightmare sifting through what was for sale (especially ebay).

In short... No they aren't! There are all sorts but they aren't really marketed as replacement parts (standard issue across the Warwick range), so differentiating the models isn't something that gets pushed. There are full blown MECs that are in the German basses and they are full active (i.e. like EMGs), down to the 'Dynamic Correction' MECs that appear in the Far East models.

Dodgy jack socket... the scourge of Warwick basses! Be sure to fit a good quality one (Switchcraft or better) as it's false economy to fit a cheapy ([size=1]or dare I say another Warwick one[/size] )

[quote name='richardd' timestamp='1317462598' post='1390893']Thanks ,have put images in photobucket,please now what,nice and easy please.[/quote]While in Photobucket, place/hover your cursor over the image you want and when it brings up a drop down menu simply click once on the bottom selection (IMG code), go into your BC post and simply paste ('control' 'V' is the quickest) the code into your post. Hey presto it will appear in your post as an image.

[quote name='richardd' timestamp='1317460895' post='1390875']I need help uploading pics on this new site, you seem to have complecated a very simple process,Thanks Rich[/quote]Photobucket! it's free and you simply paste the tag in... it's far easier.

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1317402973' post='1390477'] hi i think some of you guys must be misunderstanding my first post. ive tested my cab using another amp my drummer v4 and it sounds like its ok nothing wrong there, in doing that i used the same signal chain as i had with my aggie and to run the new head i used the power lead from my aggie. the speakon cable was proved as it was running our monitiors for our vocals so thats good. and just incase i changed the batteries on my bass and also tried a guitar thru my amp and still nadda! also i just remembered i lleft the amp off for about 20mins before trying it again and still the same thing! i was just really confused! everything said it should work! the diag went all the way thru and doesnt flash at all! didnt even flash when it happened! andy[/quote] Didn't intend to cast aspersions on your ability to eliminate the obvious Andy. Sometimes it's worth stating the obvious to posters as some may not have the experience (as you have) to try and eliminate the most obvious causes!

Take the guitar lead, amp/speaker cable and mains cable you were using with the DB750 and try those with a different amp [b]and[/b] different cab (you'd be amazed how many people say they have done that and it turns out they have just taken the guitar lead... or tried neither), if they work try replacing your DB750 into that signal chain; that at least rules out any external factor and indicates it is defo your amp! Honestly there is nothing more embarrassing than when a repair guy powers it up and it works fine because it was something else in the set-up.

+1 to all of the above. No need to wax if it is played regular but a wipe with wax or lemon oil won't do any harm (be sure to buff the wax off properly or it can become sticky when you get it warm during playing). Splinters... owned dozens of Warwicks over the last 20+ years and have never had one splinter, ever!

[quote name='Clarky' timestamp='1317152680' post='1387464'] Did you manage to solve it in the end, WH ... or just sell the bass?!!! [/quote] I tried EQing it, using a different amp/cab, adjusting the pup and action, tightened neck bolts, different string gauge and makes... all to no avail. It annoyed me to the point where I sold the bass.

Strange you should have this issue even with a replacement pup as I had a very similar issue with a 'Sting' sig Tele/P bass and replacing the pup didn't sort that (I also tried tilting the pup etc to no avail and changing between flats and rounds)!

[quote name='LemonCello' timestamp='1317146199' post='1387366']If you caught OGWT 70's Gold edition on the TV the last weekend nearly every band on had a Fender bass in it, what you've been brought up with??[/quote] Exactly! Back in the 70's there was a lot less choice and Fender basically dominated the market, so kids watching the OGWT saw their hero playing a Fender and it was thus a self propagating circle.

If you trust the other party and aren't worried about needing the security of paypal protection, then a gift will work.