warwickhunt

[quote name='AndyTravis' post='1203573' date='Apr 18 2011, 01:37 PM']I've seen stripped Fenders from a similar era with odd joins, but this looks like a factory natural finish...odd choice of join is odd. I'm not sure £1975 is the right price point either.[/quote] You only have to know a bit of previous history with the seller to realise that their take on value can be very different to that of (virtually) everyone else!

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1203497' date='Apr 18 2011, 12:31 PM']This one should be worth a fortune then. [/quote] I should have clarified '...of the basses that are made from multiple pieces of wood'.

This particular bass came up in another thread but on examination I thought it raised a serious question; was this a conscious effort to save wood or was the bass constructed on a Friday afternoon shift? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-1976-American-Jazz-Bass-Guitar-Natural-Ash-M-N-/250766618313?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3a62daeec9"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-1976-American...=item3a62daeec9[/url] I have to say that the 70's must have been a rough period for Fender when they don't even joint the wood parallel with the neck. I realise that it shouldn't have any affect to the tone whether it is parallel or offset but every bass (copy or genuine) I've ever encountered in the past has been parallel jointed in roughly regular sections (2-5 pieces depending on manufacturer/period). I could understand if the lower piece was jointed so that the lower offset bout could be added without the need to waste wood but the bottom section actually carries over to the bottom lower horn!

[quote name='BigAlonBass' post='1203231' date='Apr 18 2011, 09:12 AM']I mustn't have a big enough ego. [/quote] Just as well you put those smilies at the end Al... you geet big egotistical maniac you!

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1203249' date='Apr 18 2011, 09:29 AM']Hmmmm ... struggling to agree with you on this one.[/quote] I concede that we should all be happy knowing that an instrument should be judged on its own merits and not on the perception of quality implied by a name on the headstock, however there is little harm (in my book) in a mocked up bitsa with a 'name' logo. I personally much prefer those jokey logos that are meant to look like Fender/Rickebacker etc. from a distance but when you get up close it is a complete mickey take. To clarify... it's one thing to stick a transfer on to please yourself with no intent, either now or in the future, to dupe or fool someone into thinking it is something that it is not BUT I completely agree that transfers applied to deliberately con or fool for gain or increase in perceived value is absolutely wrong!

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1203177' date='Apr 18 2011, 08:06 AM']I don't see why the date makes it any more of a problem.[/quote] You just have to ask the question, 'WHY'? As has been pointed out; to graft on a tatoo of the Fender logo etc to make your copy (or even luthier made replica ) look like a Fender so that it fools the general public etc. is dubious practice but I've personally got no problem with that as I'm a tart when it comes to labels the same as the next guy. However... stamping a part of the instrument that will never be seen by Joe Public can only (IMHO) be a practice done to dupe someone either now or at a later date, it serves no other purpose WHAT-SO-EVER! I do have to say that the heel date stamping etc has been discussed on here before and iirc the bass in question was produced by a 'name' UK luthier, I stated then that the replication of markings not visible under normal useage was tantamount to blatant fraud and this neck is no different.

I HATE it when people say 'Oh you play guitar'... No, I play bass, that is not the same thing! However, I can play guitar and can happily strum through songs and know plenty stuff to get away with at a Busker's Night or at a BBQ etc. just don't ask me to start getting widdly. I think it's really useful to know a bit of guitar (keys and drums as well if possible) and if you learn a little theory about how a chord is constructed and the various chords that go together in a particular key, then it's beneficial to my playing especially when asked to play songs that I'm not massively familiar with.

He's not adverse to applying logos to other items that he's sold... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170601021635"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=170601021635[/url]

I'm a Monkey's Uncle if that's genuine!

The classic one for this was the old TE amps; EVERYTHING happened in the first 1/4 - 1/3 of the output dial.

[quote name='pantherairsoft' post='1198822' date='Apr 13 2011, 10:29 PM']Yeah... I'm just concerned about being in a situation where by if I don't have a compressor my rig isn't safe to use. I want to plug in and play like anyone else. Hmmmm[/quote] Honestly it's not a big issue! I play in a 6 piece band with a loud drummer doing Springsteen, Skynyrd etc and I've no probs taking either the 2x10 or my Aggie 1x12's (though I almost always gig these as a pair, I'd not be worried about using one... I just like to feel the air moving with two ) and my 550w amp and that's from almost 30 yrs of gigging experience.

[quote name='pantherairsoft' post='1198648' date='Apr 13 2011, 08:26 PM']Quick one for guys with more technical knowledge. I'm in a situation where it seems I will soon have a Euphonic Audio 550 Micro. The can I need it to work with is my EA Wizzy 10 which I used to use my MarkBass Littlemark 250. The Wizzy is 250w at 4ohms, the Micro is 550w at 4 ohm (oddly the lowest wattage amp they now make). Usually I would think this was destined to blow the speaker to bits... Bi it seems odd that the lowest powered amp they make is too hot for a cab that sell loads of!! So I asked the guys at EA. I was told it was pretty safe to use as long as the amp didn't peak... In fact I was told it would be safer than say, using a 300w amp as the 550w head would have more headro before peaking and only peaking over the cabs wattage would damage it. Is this all true? Does that mean a 1000w amp is safe to use with a 100w speaker as long as the amp doesn't peak!? Surely not Shep[/quote] It's a mine field when you start talking of power ratings and a MAHOOSIVE can of worms is opened when you start discussing under/overpowering speakers but it is safe to say that a 500w amp will not by simple fact of being plugged into a 250w cab cause drivers to blow! I've ran speakers of less than 250w with 1000w pre/power combos and I've never blown a driver; in fact I'm busy using my 550w Thunderfunk with a H&K 250w 2x10 cab and I'm getting some seriously nice sounds and I'm not worried in the slightest with blowing anything up... just use a bit of common sense and your ears. If the cab is complaining then turn the amp down a bit or roll off a bit of the low end.

The double-cut short top horn style of the bass would lend me to think it may be a bit unbalanced but as I've not tried one it'd be just supposition!

£670 is a snip! Watch these earlier basses rocket in value in 10-15yrs... if you can hold on to your Warwicks that long.

No new holes required with stacked pots. However be sure to try a few pre pedals as suggested because some inboard pres can be pricey (you don't want to know the cost of a new MEC unit), in fact I'd be tempted to leave it in passive and run it through a pedal (Aguilar, Sadowsky etc) then you can use it with the passive P or whatever bass you like.

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='1197571' date='Apr 12 2011, 11:06 PM']9.1v under load, it's not that new a battery mind so may try another one. (writing the date on batteries when you put them in- genius idea) Any idea what's in the preamp box? or if it's openable? or what type of caps are in there???[/quote] From the date of your bass, the preamp will likely be an epoxy sealed MEC unit; absolutely NO chance of tinkering with it! Open up the cover and check, it'll take seconds.

When someone knows enough to be quoting 'Tadeo Gomez' yet still prices at £3k, I smell a rat!