warwickhunt

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='799255' date='Apr 7 2010, 09:26 PM']Dave Wilson - Haltwhistle (ex-Overwater).[/quote] ... but it'll cost more than £100!

[quote name='thedonutman' post='799166' date='Apr 7 2010, 08:14 PM']Can any other Warwick owners recommend any luthiers they trust to do this sort of work?[/quote] Dave Wilson - Haltwhistle (ex-Overwater).

If you do keep it and decide to go for a refret then the Warwick shop can supply precut frets for your bass in the original material; it's not worth using any other wire as you'll really devalue the bass further if a Warwick fan wants to buy it.

[quote name='thedonutman' post='799141' date='Apr 7 2010, 07:53 PM']Add to that another hundred to get it refinished in oil (I've had experience with oil finishes myself, but having seem how many wires there are in the control cavity I'm not too sure I can reassemble it!) I think it might not be too worth it.[/quote] Easy there mate! I'd budget a LOT more than £100 if someone is going to strip/refinish the bass; Warwick paints are notoriously thick and a swine to try and get off even with chemical strippers. Sweat and elbow grease is just about the best way to get the finish off. You'll be able to do it yourself for a lot less than £100 obviously but I know from experience that the guy who quoted me £150 to strip a NT Streamer that I had, basically brought it back a week later with cap in hand and apologised as he just couldn't do the job for the price quoted.

[quote name='XB26354' post='799133' date='Apr 7 2010, 07:46 PM']This is most likely a custom shop Thumb - metallic paint job and (probably original) inlay on the board. The nut was probably originally a plastic Just A Nut II, which is a bit wider than the brass JAN I, and was replaced, leaving a gap. The truss rod cover was screwed flush with where the original nut was glued in (I'd get a JAN III and get rid of the brass nut as it is a PITA when changing strings and doesn't add anything to the tone). It's unlikely to be an old Warwick as it's looks as if there is a volute on the back of the neck and the pickups are MEC's (old 90's ones had Bartolinis and no volute). The board looks like a very light wenge (got one on my SS1), needs about a litre of lemon oil. I don't think it needs a refret, but a fretstone - bell brass is very soft and Warwick frets mark easily. They don't look that low, just need profiling. The rod can be sorted - probably half of the 20+ Warwicks I've had, new and old, have had hard to move truss rods. The burning question is how much did you pay for it? That's the only way to tell if it was worth keeping or replacing (PM me if you don't want to make it public). Cheers Mat[/quote] Sorry Mat not wishing to derail the thread or pick an argument BUT MECs have been used in Warwicks from the late 80's alongside EMG/SD/Bartolini and the metal used in Warwick frets is 'renowned' for being a very hard metal. It's not unheard of for the odd Warwick to have a truss rod issue, especially some of the earliest ones but to have had a 50% failure rate on your Warwick truss rods... that's about as unlucky as you can get!

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='799104' date='Apr 7 2010, 07:25 PM']if it is a 2002 one the nut's not original. also my 1991 streamer has similarly shaped frets. I am not sure my old one's frets were different.Maybe my frets are worn too, Maybe they are made more that shape? Ask warwickhunt or someone.[/quote] You rang? I nearly bought this as a 'doer-up' project, was gonna take it back to natural! The nut - As has been pointed out, the nut is not original hence the large gap (the JAN II/III that should be in place is a lot wider than the JAN I fitted) between truss rod cover and nut. The nut hasn't been fitted right up against the end of the fingerboard but that is an easy fix. The frets - "They all do that sir"! I've seen worse... in fact my old red 91 bass is worse than that. <Edit> Just checked my Infinette which has never been gigged and has barely a few 100 hrs of use and that looks almost identical to your bass that apparently requires a refret I doubt it's something that a decent luthier (or even a cr*p one tbh) couldn't recrown and sort out but tbh Warwick frets are not like the skinny high frets you get on some basses. Truss Rod - Yep it's a bugg3r if that is seized but again something I'd expect any decent luthier should be able to free up. ACTUALLY... thinking about it 2002 it should have a 2 way truss rod so you may just need to slacken the rod off and ensure it's working correctly but you are also correct in the fact that the necks of these basses are uber-rigid and not like some maple necks that require tweaking everytime they come home from/to a gig. Your call at the end of the day but as I recall it was a bit of a bargain.

Just out of interest at what point did 62 Jazzes change from the stack-knobs to 3 controls?

[quote name='Jerry_B' post='798519' date='Apr 7 2010, 11:24 AM']Is the earth strip common to Jazzes from that era then? I thought it was something only MIJ versions had?[/quote] No that is proper for early Jazzes (phased out not long after) and the MIJs are just copies of this.

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='798451' date='Apr 7 2010, 10:25 AM']I reckon the '93 stamp is by the guy who did the re-fin/re-fret in that year. Everything else seems 'in order' but I would need to have it in my mits to verify further. Bridge certainly looks a bit too clean.[/quote] Pretty much my thoughts, especially the bridge cleanliness and the bell plate looks as clean but the pots look suitably old... dead easy to keep the pots and to have replaced the plate I suppose. The lack of tarnish/marking on the bridge and plate are kind of at odds with the tuners as well. I'm not doubting the neck is pukka so I suppose it would make sense that the body may well have gone with the neck in the first place but does the neck pocket not look a little 'too' clean or would the guy have sanded/cleaned it out when he refinished do you think? I like little puzzles.

Always a tricky one this! When you alter enough of a bass when does it cease to be a 62 Jazz and become a Bitsa? The guy confesses that the bass has had a refinish and a refret and I have to say that the scratchplate looks proper vintage but to my eye the bell plate and bridge aren't right and it might be glaringly obvious but the stamps in the neck pocket don't look 62... especially as the handwritten date says '93! The body does look suitably old/vintage/relic though, so a tricky one. I'm sure that logo in the neck pocket will mean something to someone but it just doesn't look 62 and there doesn't appear to be the typical Fender overspray so is the body a replacement? Thoughts! [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1962-Vintage-Fender-Jazz-Bass_W0QQitemZ170468367299QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item27b0b4dbc3"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1962-Vintage-Fender-...=item27b0b4dbc3[/url]

[quote name='ray_6ao7' post='798194' date='Apr 6 2010, 11:31 PM']Have no idea mate, it's pretty heavy! Can lift it on my own but if you've got an 8x10 definately recommend two people to get it up there! can attempt to weigh it???[/quote] No need to weigh it I've found the individual weights so I've an idea of what it's likely to weigh... a proper 'touring rig' methinks!

Bill's cabs have always intrigued me, I'd love to have heard a pair of these 1x12's next to my pair of Aggie 1x12's. Did you go for the strap handles in the end? I find them more than adequate on said Aggies.

[quote name='ray_6ao7' post='797524' date='Apr 6 2010, 01:43 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190386765848&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MESELX:IT[/url][/quote] Do you know what the combined weight of that gear in the case is?

[quote name='Jigster' post='797501' date='Apr 6 2010, 01:26 PM']...have a Fender Bassman 135 - (so not huge wattage) (stated min load is 4ohms) and it will play thro either my Berg 4x10 (4 ohms) or my Orange 1x15 (8 ohms) -power handling on both these cabs is way above the bassman (600 watts and 350, IIRC) - my question is, can I put it thro both at the same to get a 1x15 meets 4x10 mix - just checking re. ohm matching, but also, altho i think not, do cabs prefer to be in a stack with cabs of same make?? ta[/quote] You unfortunately can't do both cabs as the load would be less than 4ohms. Had they both been 8ohm cabs you 'could' have mixed them any way you like and they may well have worked fine BUT it is 'generally' accepted (... listens for the sound of worms slithering out of the freshly reopened can) that cabs should be from the same manufacturer and ideally with drivers of the same size i.e. x2 4x10's will work better then a mix of 4x10 and 1x15 EVEN THOUGH we are continually shown manufacturers stacking their cabs in a classic mix and match fashion!

Not sure I've seen the Fiesta red ones as cheap as £259, the blue ones at GAK for that price... £279 @ Soundslive is the cheapest I can find

If you like Warwicks you get used to the feeling that you're the only one with that opinion... especially when you tell people about the lovely skinny necks that the early models have!

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='796897' date='Apr 5 2010, 08:15 PM']The screw holding them in appears to have a hex bolt head rather than a normal screw head. Weird.[/quote] The hex bolt head is perfectly normal for Warwick basses, they don't all have but it isn't uncommon. Do you need the locks?

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='796537' date='Apr 5 2010, 01:51 PM']Haha. I'd never looked properly before but yes the pins are the Schaller ones that mate to their locking slide-on bit thingy. I'd always just assumed they were normal flared strap buttons.[/quote] Stick an image up here and I'll double check if it is the same as the strap buttons that I have available.

[quote name='davidmpires' post='796405' date='Apr 5 2010, 11:33 AM']It might be the website photos but it looks like the DBs have side recessed deep-dish handles. Are they not the same as the GS?[/quote] No the DB cabs have strap handles. I wondered about these handles when I first got mine as I'm used to inset bar/dish handles but I have to say that after well over a year of use, they are absolutely rock solid and so long as you aren't carrying them long distances then the straps are easily good enough. Saying that, if I had a choice I may well have selected a different handle but by all accounts cutting holes in the sides of boxes compromises rigidity and 'can' affect sound... whether a deaf owld bugg3r like me could tell the difference I'm not sure.

Along with WoT and Marcus from this forum we did an A/B between a pair of the the DB and the GS 1x12's and imho I wouldn't say that the DB's were 'that' mid pronounced in comparison the the GS cabs! I have a feeling that WoT actually did a little video of the comparison (along with his Berg 2x10's) and it may even have been posted on BC; may be worth doing a search (I'm on my way out but may get time to look later) or PMing WoT. Having heard the two cabs back to back I'm happy that I picked the DBs but that is just my opinion.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='796206' date='Apr 5 2010, 02:40 AM']if you like that, check this out: [url="http://www.captnmoto.co.uk/videos/wheelie.wmv"]Wheelie Monster[/url][/quote] "Sorry Officer, I was simply trying to save wear and tear on my front tyre"!

Does your Thumb bass have the Schaller strap pins installed or does it have standard flared strap pins? If it is a NT Thumb then it should have the locking pins in which case you just need the bits for the strap, I have a black or gold set you can buy if that is all you require... of course if it is a BO bass it may well have 'normal' strap buttons!

Re. the left handed thing- I noted that all of his youtube vids have him playing 'left-handed' BUT I put that down to some weird video recording reversal type thing (I've seen it happen before) but not quite sure how that happens as just about any video that I've taken doesn't reverse the image... stills can mind. <edit> His listing now explains it - his Macbook flips the image!