warwickhunt

[quote name='JayC' post='647930' date='Nov 7 2009, 10:58 AM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170401138567&ih=007&category=69962&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=WDVW&rd=1[/url] That [/quote] That's just a poweramp (funnily enough I recently sold the 1200w big brother of that eBay model, to a fellow BCer) but yes essentially DJ's etc. just use exactly the same poweramps as band PA systems, bass players etc.

[quote name='JayC' post='647922' date='Nov 7 2009, 10:51 AM']Sorry to hijack, but from what I've read, any power amp (even a dj one) will work great with a bass pre-amp? Specifically, the BBE BMAXt?[/quote] Essentially you are correct, any power amp will work but some power amps are better than others purely from their design and the quality of their components. What is a DJ amp btw?

[quote name='owen' post='647561' date='Nov 6 2009, 07:31 PM']I am using status round core nickles on my Bolin, but that is 35". Interestingly, I have tried a set of status and a set of roto plastic wraps on thd bolin and both gave HUGELY inconsitent volumes from string to string on the piezo. More to do with tension accross the piezo pick ups. I do realise that this revelation is a pretty minority intrest one.[/quote] Will look into this [quote name='Moos3h' post='647563' date='Nov 6 2009, 07:35 PM']I'm sure plenty of people will shoot me down here, but I don't trust strings that have been 'dismounted' (if that's the right word) and then re-strung. I'm sure they'd probably be okay, but to me it just feels like pushing my luck....sorry to hear of your troubles![/quote] In some respects I agree with you BUT that was just one of the three strings. The other two strings were brand new out of the packets! [quote name='sdgrsr400' post='647595' date='Nov 6 2009, 08:08 PM']Give Lawrence at Overwater a ring: I had a very similar problem with a .134 'B' of theirs which, although standard 34" scale, was too long as the winder is closer to the nut than normal hence the problem. When I spoke to him he rummaged around and found another shorter version which he then sent on an no-fee exchange basis. So, it would appear they have a variety of non-standard lengths available. It might be useful to know what thickness you are after before ringing. I'd say he'd sell single strings too. Incidentally, I highly recommend Overwater nickel medium weight strings: easily the best I've ever used - and good value too.[/quote] Will look into this also.

Never had a problem with strings or stringing my Bolin bass until now! For some reason it has decided to eat strings and really p*ss me off. I fitted an 'as new' set of LaBella flats to the locking tuner; tuned up to pitch and... ping! One snapped G string (others were fine). I then bought a new set of identical strings from a BCer and when I went to take the G out of the packet (left the other 3 strings from the last set on the bass), I noted that it said the silk should be wrapped around the post NOT the metal part of the string. Hmmm the G string tuner is close to the nut (though not much different to quite a few 2+2 headstocks) hence there is no silk or slimming of the string to clamp/wrap around the tuner but I thought I'd maybe been unlucky and I'd give it a go but I'd put a few wraps around the tuner to alleviate any potential bad break angle; tuned to pitch and... ping (NO I am not trying to go an octave above standard). Well that had me well hacked off so I decided to fit some brand new DR Sunbeams... OH YES, same thing. Now this is chuffin annoying as I've had Sunbeams on previous. To save me any further heartache, does anyone know of any standard 34" scale 'nickel' strings that have wraps that virtually start at or just after the nut? Please save my sanity (and pocket).

[quote name='benzies123' post='645054' date='Nov 4 2009, 10:43 AM']Thanks very much, I look forward to doing business again/PM me if you ever have to get rid of more strings [/quote] Cheers mate. Just so happens I do have one more box of 3 sets but they are the medium/heavy gauge!

[quote name='Geddys nose' post='644882' date='Nov 3 2009, 11:55 PM']Jeez That Bad Bull is cheap really weird the minimum loads though- 8 ohm minimum .[/quote] Fine if you have a pair of 8 ohm cabs but useless if you are a one cab 4 ohm person. The bridged mode is pretty useless as I can't think of too many 16 ohm cabs kicking about.

[quote name='Flanker' post='644879' date='Nov 3 2009, 11:52 PM']I received my L610 today and it sounded amazing with my Puma 500 head........amazing!!!.............until an hour into band practise when it started sounding fuzzy like an overdriven sound so I'm assuming a speaker has gone?????? I hadn't thought about it but after the event I remembered reading that it's just as easy to blow a speaker by not enough power as by too much! Have I been stupid trying to drive a huge powerful cab with a 500W head?[/quote] Wouldn't think so. I used my 550w Thunderfunk with a Tech 6x10 with no issue and you'd have had a bit of warning if that had been too much for the cab... yours ears would have bled!

[quote name='Musicman20' post='644783' date='Nov 3 2009, 10:23 PM']I bet 8x10 is awesome.... Tecamp club should be started on the gear porn thread![/quote] Duly noted and done!

As suggested. I'll start off with some vintage Tecamp porn and the noobies can chip in.

[quote name='obbm' post='644349' date='Nov 3 2009, 01:11 PM']I have to confess that a Pleasure (Board) is all mine. It's just been delivered. I'm really looking forward to trying it and seeing if it makes it easier for me to play without deafening the band.[/quote] This might sound a bit simple but does the board actually produce a sound or is it vibration only?

[quote name='~tl' post='644035' date='Nov 3 2009, 12:00 AM']The 2x10 and 2x12 combos use a Class D amplifier rather than the Class AB one in the 1x10 and 1x12... so that could make a difference too. However, you'd then expect the Puma 350 head to be similarly affected, which it doesn't appear to be.[/quote] As I said the separate heads (Puma 350) may well not be affected at all as they would be standing flat atop a cab (some distance from the drivers) and would also have a large metal base plate shielding them. I'd be interested to know if the amp built into the combo is a fully sealed, self contained unit or if the drivers have some kind of isolation chamber screened from the amp... who's gonna open theirs up? Of course this is all just different opinions about what constitutes a 'noisy' amp/combo. We may all have very different tolerances to extraneous noise and to be sure my Tecamp Black Cat, was absolutely noise free.

[quote name='Lew-Bass' post='643786' date='Nov 2 2009, 08:04 PM']210 Combo mate[/quote] That either blows a hole in that theory or you have cleaner electricity.

[quote name='Lew-Bass' post='643772' date='Nov 2 2009, 07:48 PM']Personally I haven't noticed any hiss with my cabs at lower volumes, it's asif it isn't even on. I've cranked it to almost full just for a couple of notes to test the sound/hum and still nothing. Maybe I'm lucky?[/quote] Separate cab and amp OR combo?

[quote name='Musicman20' post='643743' date='Nov 2 2009, 07:21 PM']PS....it seems to be just the combos hissing...is it due to the small driver?[/quote] I'm no techie type and this is just an educated guess but could the fact that the combos have the amp positioned down the back of the combo mean that the working gubbins (see not a techie ) of the amp are 'fairly' close to the driver magnet which being Neo magnets has a stronger magnetic field than traditional magnets, leading to increased hiss... the cabs/amps wouldn't have this issue as they are no where near as close! Just punting it out there as a suggestion.