warwickhunt

[quote name='Mic' post='255625' date='Aug 5 2008, 05:53 PM']does anyone know what straplocks i need to fit my sterling? i have schaller ones but they dont fit. cheerz[/quote] Are you sure that they are locking pins that you have fitted? Only reason I ask is that I had a Sterling which I thought had a locking system but it turns out that they were the standard strap buttons that just happened to look like locking pins Check out the EB forum but I'm sure that if this does have locking pins and they were fitted from new, then EB basses have their own sized fittings.

One of her previous sales was a 'breast pump'... the mind boggles as to what you got free with that one

Good luck and remember to drink plenty fluids... maybe I should rephrase that; drink plenty water (as opposed to alcohol)

As a result of loaning the guitarist from my latest musical project my Headrush, we now have a pair of them incorporated into our act! Fun fun fun if we don't get it right

I can't even find one in WH Smiths to buy one... you bunch of shiftless chiselers must have them all

The green bass is of interest Does that knock that it has taken affect the body structurally as it looks like it's right on the edge and might have weakened it! ... saying that if it has it would make the bass fecked and you'd not likely be trying to sell it on here Do you have any more close-ups of the damage and the bass in general?

[quote name='markytbass' post='254271' date='Aug 4 2008, 11:45 AM']The body of the bridge (where the arrow points to in the manual) is cut at about a 45 degree angle and is not sharp. Looking at my strings at the bridge they seem to be just touching the "body" there is no noticable bend in the string. I can't lower the whole bridge any further and don't want to raise the saddles and thus strings. The only option I can see (if I do ever have problems) would be the raise the tail slightly.[/quote] Don't worry about it, as you say it is a Warwick caveat just in case a f*ckwit messes up his new Warwick. If the string is touching anywhere 'behind' the string break over the saddle and it isn't causing an issue (which it shouldn't) then "Don't worry - be happy" It might help to consider that thru-body stringing on many basses means that the string bends at the point it goes through the bass plate and some people will even claim that this extra contact is improving tone/clarity/sustain... so you may be improving your Warwick

I've had similar problems in the past (not a Warwick ) and I was driven mad with one particular bass. I coated cavities in copper foil after painting them with screening paint, I earthed and re-earthed everything that could conceivably cause the hiss, I even tried different amps and cabs but I had to just accept that particular bass (a Jazz clone) was never going to be buzz free. I'm not saying that is the case here but be prepared that 'worst case' you may either have to live with it or get rid of the preamp. BTW have you ensured you aren't in a room with strip-lights or dimmer switches... they can exacerbate the problem.

Ask yourself this! Most of us (would like to think) that we could spot the difference in tone between a Fender P bass and a Jazz agreed... so what is the main difference between the 2 basses? Body wood? Construction? ...?

[quote name='budget bassist' post='253966' date='Aug 3 2008, 10:17 PM'][b]Personally i have no idea why some people have a preference over the pre-EB rays to the current ones, they don't sound a great deal different and they're no better in construction, there really isn't much difference. If anything the new ones are better.[/b] Not sure why the sales are suffering though. They are great instruments, oh well, i suppose it sets me up to get one around christmas rather nicely![/quote] You could level that comment at Fender Jazz/Precision basses and I think you'd find a few defenders of the faith leaping forward I have to confess to having a fondness for old Warwicks and though there is nothing 'wrong' with any of the new ones (some may argue they are more consistent now due to technological advances), I'd as soon have an old one than a new one. I can justify that statement with reasons, so I'm sure Musicman lovers will have their reasons

The bass is in Cash Converters but unfortunately it was closed today!

Not wishing to go off-line too far with pricing but we did mention the poor showing of Warwick as a brand... £650 for what appears to be a mint condition 5 string Streamer from The Bass Merchant... ouch [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=220262163760&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=012"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A:IT&ih=012[/url]

[quote name='Platypus' post='253636' date='Aug 3 2008, 10:25 AM']Don't follow Musicman prices closely, though have always had the perception that they hold their value better that most other basses. A quick look at GAK showes a new 'Ray available for £949 - and they are frequently offered on hear for up to £850 ( £750 being common) far lower depreciation than you see for most other readily available basses P[/quote] Unfortunately at the moment £750 would be well optimistic! It was only a few short months ago that there were a whole bunch of Ray and Sterlings that were reducing to the £650 mark

[quote name='bassaussie' post='253613' date='Aug 3 2008, 09:37 AM']Come on guys!!! Remember - when trying to figure out what the scam is, Google is your friend!! [url="http://www.do-business.net/CompanySelect/select.aspx?key=7a96c409-8d9a-4a09-8fd0-960a61a67195"]http://www.do-business.net/CompanySelect/s...d0-960a61a67195[/url] [url="http://www.touchnewcastle.com/business/list/bid/3346583"]http://www.touchnewcastle.com/business/list/bid/3346583[/url] [url="http://www.bview.co.uk/listing/1368850/Daemma-Trading-Ltd-in-NE1"]http://www.bview.co.uk/listing/1368850/Dae...ding-Ltd-in-NE1[/url] So, we know (or can assume) that the seller is a second hand dealer in Newcastle. My take on it is this. He's bought the thing thinking it was a Stingray, then realised he got done (on the other hand, maybe he just wants to make a huge profit, but I guess his motives don't really matter here). Now he's trying to recoup his money. Notice he carefully avoids any use of the word "Musicman" or "Music Man". He's using the words "Ernie Ball" because he feels he can defend that use (check this auction, and have a look at the back of the headstock - the words "Ernie Ball" are definitely there [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ernie-Ball-OLP-Bass-Guitar-flametop-MUSICMAN-MUSIC-MAN_W0QQitemZ110276099164QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110276099164&_trkparms=72%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1318"]Another OLP bass[/url]). But he's a sneaky bugger, as he's also avoided using the acronym "OLP", as he doesn't want to give too much away. Reason he wants to deliver is obvious - he wants the money first, then you get the bass. No chance of inspection, no chance of backing out of the deal. Once he has the money, he obviously feels he has a good case to keep the money, and if you really look at the advertisement, I'd say he might be right. He's playing on people's hopes that they're going to get a bargain - he's presented an auction that at first glimpse looks to be one - only after a bit of study is it obvious that it's not a bargain, and it takes some experience of basses to know that's the case.[/quote] Nice work! Funnily enough I know Clayton St fairly well and I joked earlier in the thread that it could be a take on 'Crack Converters'... well guess what the address for CC in Newcastle happens to be? Yep you guessed it; the trading company is registered at the same address as CC. Mystery solved Think I'll pop in and have a look

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='253617' date='Aug 3 2008, 09:40 AM']I think it's just one of those down periods. It seems to be MusicMan basses & Warwicks that aren't loved these days. That seems to make the prices fall on here. Curiously, Bongos seem to be worth more at the moment. Is it the modernity or the novelty value, I wonder?[/quote] I agree it does appear to be the two named manufacturers that have suffered most but is this a fact or just a misconception? I realise the 'credit crunch' is hitting everyone and everything but are there other manufacturers that are hit as bad as EB & 'W' re. the OP question. Pre EB will bump the price as will the fact that it is a 'good un' but a major chunk of that value is the fact that the retailer has premises to upkeep so it will have his profit margin built in and don't forget that even on used retail goods there is still VAT to be added! That came as a bit of a shock to me when I asked if a store would handle a commission sale for me... unless they were blowing smoke up my backside

Doh! So is that all that is required (rotate the fuse holder) to change an Eden amp from USA to UK? Doesn't the fuse rating need to be altered?

[quote name='SteveO' post='253599' date='Aug 3 2008, 08:09 AM']LOL. Go on then John, put me straight [/quote] I read that post as "what head should I use for my old cab that I built with my dad" rather than a general what head should I get question. so, if the drivers are 8ohm each and they're wired in parallel then the cab will be 4ohm, with a rating of somewhere between 200 and 300 W It's safest to buy a head rated at max 200W @ 4ohms, but the problem with this is that there just might not be enough grunt and then you'll be looking at buying a new cab AND a new head. [b] [i]You can run an amp rated way higher or lower than the cabs rating with no ill effect... so long as you use your ears! You'd also need to know the sensitivity rating of the speaker. A quality speaker with good spec may well need a lot less watts than a cr*ppy badly designed one. In fact don't some of the designs being build by various BCers require very little power to sound good![/i][/b] As you can see from the other posts, 200W would be the absolute bare minimum that pretty much anyone on here would use. you could risk pushing as much as 300W through the cab, how hard you push it depends on how much heartache it'll cause if you blow a speaker. [b][i]I've gigged putting 1000watt amps through cabs rated @ 150 watts for continuous periods of time and several of those cabs are still going to this day. In fact our Peavey PA has been gigged for 16 years, has the original drivers and tweeters and though the cabs are rated at 350 watts I've driven them with various power amps from a minimum of 1200watts up to 2500watts... and the amps have been running with the outputs on full [/i][/b] My suggestion - and I admit that it's a little risky - is that you get whatever head you like (forget about matching the power to the cab, check out the other threads here, there's loads of good advice which I won't attempt to replicate) When you next look at buying a cab then match the cab to the head, in the meantime just don't run the head at full whack so as not to blow your cab. [b][i]see above[/i] [/b] A simple rule of thumb is that if your head's rated at 400 W then half way on the master vol will be about 200W. NOTE - THIS IS NOT ACCURATE, so care is needed. [b][i]Sorry Steve, just not true! I'm sure Messrs Claber, BFM etc can enlighten as to the science of that but speaking purely from almost 30 years gigging experience, I've had amps that at 50% output on the dial they have given their all and have nothing in reserve (Trace Elliot owners - do I lie?) whilst I've had amps that @ 50% have barely begun to come alive (Who owns a H&K Bassbase 250 amp or combo... my old one is around here somewhere) and EVERYTHING happens in the last 50% of travel. This is assuming that input gains have been matched as best as possible using the available indicators AND my ears [/i][/b] My head is rated at 450W, I have 2 cabs (300W each) sometimes i'll only gig with the 2x10 if it's a small venue, keeping the dial under halfway, and i've never had a problem. [b][i]I the last 6 mths alone I've ran a 150 watt amp into my 2100watt 6x10 cab... no issue, I used my ears. Conversely, at rehearsal I've ran a Tech 21 sans amp into a 1000 watt bridged amp into the speaker of a very old combo that was rated at 100watts.[/i][/b] Honestly Steve there are so many variables, even within my experiences listed above (mid-biased amps - sounding louder/non-linear inputs & outputs/VU meters or indicators that are Mickey Mouse etc etc) that you genuinely just have to virtually ignore manufacturers quotes and trust your ears. I'd agree that you should always buy the best and highest rated amp that you can as it's far better to have too much power (headroom) than not enough but don't get hung up on facts and figures. How's that compressor going anyway Steve?

[quote name='SteveO' post='253543' date='Aug 2 2008, 10:50 PM']I read that post as "what head should I use for my old cab that I built with my dad" rather than a general what head should I get question. so, if the drivers are 8ohm each and they're wired in parallel then the cab will be 4ohm, with a rating of somewhere between 200 and 300 W It's safest to buy a head rated at max 200W @ 4ohms, but the problem with this is that there just might not be enough grunt and then you'll be looking at buying a new cab AND a new head. As you can see from the other posts, 200W would be the absolute bare minimum that pretty much anyone on here would use. you could risk pushing as much as 300W through the cab, how hard you push it depends on how much heartache it'll cause if you blow a speaker. My suggestion - and I admit that it's a little risky - is that you get whatever head you like (forget about matching the power to the cab, check out the other threads here, there's loads of good advice which I won't attempt to replicate) When you next look at buying a cab then match the cab to the head, in the meantime just don't run the head at full whack so as not to blow your cab. A simple rule of thumb is that if your head's rated at 400 W then half way on the master vol will be about 200W. NOTE - THIS IS NOT ACCURATE, so care is needed. My head is rated at 450W, I have 2 cabs (300W each) sometimes i'll only gig with the 2x10 if it's a small venue, keeping the dial under halfway, and i've never had a problem.[/quote] With all due respect there is so much tosh in there that I don't know where to start!

I think he's out to get the greedy/unwary! You'd be amazed how many people will overlook the obvious when they 'think' they are stealing a bargain. The response from the seller was as follows... Hi, sorry but this will be posted direct from our warehouse so no collection regards Paul Very polite and to the point; an early question with regard to viewing got the same response. Odd that it is coming from a warehouse when it is used, an offshoot from 'Crack Converters' maybe! <edit> I just went back to the listing as I wondered why people were referring to OLP... I may be cracking up but I'm certain there was just one photo when I first viewed it

This is advertised 10 miles from me. I asked if I could view before the end of the auction or if I could collect upon winning. The response - No, this will be shipped direct from our warehouse! Of course it will... what do you think [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150277209262&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123[/url]