warwickhunt

I bought a Zoom 60B for this very reason. You can select something as simple as a basic EQ (variable/para or fixed) or even a fairly flat amp model that allows you to create the dub sound and you can switch on/off or better still the Zoom allows you to designate each patch/function as A, B, C etc and you can call them up (all or as few as you choose) and then a single click of the footswitch takes you from A > B > C etc. Make one of the options (A) a bypass (it gives that facility) and you are sorted. A = bypass B = distortion (many editable options available from slight OD to buzz... the latter I can't see the sense in ) C = compression (lots of classic compressors inc) D = EQ (basic to full parametric) E = Synth F = Phaser G = Chorus etc etc etc One thing I like is that I can have set 20 presets tweaked/edited by me, save them in the 50 available slots but then just select the 3 or 4 I'll use with any particular band... or bass, as you could select an EQ and tweak it for 2 or 3 different basses and name/save each individually. You then select the patches you want and they will be the only options that will be available with each click. Jazz: patch A - D (Bypass/OD/Comp/EQ) Precision: E - H (same as above but tweaked for P bass) Ray: I - L (see above) Of course this last bit is useless info if you only ever use one bass! Oh and I paid about £60-70 for mine 2nd hand.

I was responding to @rwillett's comment about having no reference to the tones that are in 'any' of these devices, no matter whether they are true IR captures/models or Lo-Fi stores in a pedal. Sometimes using your ears and deciding what you like/dislike is the best method for choosing your tones; an SVT might be an iconic amp and some users might assume that a capture in a Tonex is as good as you'll get, yet I didn't rate some of the bass captures at all and the Lo-Fi sounds in a Zoom were as good IMHO.

I presently play in 2 tribute bands NOT trios but for the last 12 years I've also been in a pub/rock/covers trio/band and the main reason it was a trio was financial. Pubs weren't paying any more than they were 30 years ago but the cost of gigging has gone up massively (equipment, strings, fuel etc), being in a band with 2 (or more) guitarists in, didn't make sense. Venues certainly weren't bothered if you were a 3 piece as opposed to 4/5/6, so long as you were a full live band and you were entertaining! Easier to manage 3 diaries and no negatives to speak of!

Gig was canny but the PA and engineer were woefully unprepared (despite us supplying a tech spec when we booked) for a 6 piece band (inc sax, keys, x2 guitars and bass), with 5 vocals, no backline and 6 IEM feeds req'd... the poor guy managed to give us a single mix through 3 tiny little 8" wedges! We know all BVs were pulled from the mix and unconvinced that the bass was even in the FOH mix.

Not Tonex but I went through preset amp tones on 'new to me' Zoom 60B and despite having experience of a few of the amps I didn't think many were representative of the tone that was in my memory banks. In the end (using factory settings) I found the SWR tone was the most pleasing and I used that for my baseline setting.

The pics look legit but that description is A.I. generated at best!

Do you leave them with a jack plug plugged in? I'm sure Warwick used to quote battery life for their active basses to be 1000hrs+ (I think that is conservative). If you used it 3 hours a day 365 days of the year you might deplete a battery in a year. I used to give my active basses a battery change each Christmas, I then started to do it every other Christmas... now even less so!

I've got a couple of Warwick basses that I gig regular and the batteries are 4 and 6 years old (I put the month/year date on when I install). I know this as I took them out and did a test on them to see how they were doing... well over 9v on both of them but I replaced the 6 year old battery any way.

...but where does the steel come from? We get a lot of it from Europe but how will those trade deals progress if we don't side with Europe?

It looks to me that if we on BC are representative of most instrument buyers, then post tariff prices will mean we don't buy new American produce; ergo American manufacturing suffers and they need to reduce pricing in order that we buy again... or am I looking at it too simplistically?

If profit margins are already tight in the UK, there is no way the importers/retailers can absorb 10-25%. I'd imagine that USA instruments will be getting hiked by whatever that amount is, unless there are exceptions to Trumps blanket tariffs and/or there are back door imports via countries that don't have tariffs imposed... which will be none. If prices are hiked you can rest assured they won't go back down if Trump eases tariffs or is deposed.

I'll tell the drummer... everyone else is IEM. @ezbass - it's a great gig and certain songs are just a dream.

Off to 'ull next week.

How to further muddy the waters of Musicman/Sterling/By bass identification... give it the same name as a previous model but take away half the electrics. Genius.

I went in, out and around the whole digital pedal route and I eventually settled on an analogue pedal for my core sound (Fishman Plat Pro) and a Zoom B60 for any drive, phase or chorus. I found the digital modelling devices to be far too complex for my needs and unnecessarily involved.

Local guitar maker in the NE.

Not really PA related so wrong section but... It isn't as easy as just popping in lighter speakers. The cabinet size and porting should be designed around the speakers intended for its use. You can obviously just drop any old speaker in but you might not get the result you expect... other than it will 'probably' be lighter (some neo drivers can be heavier than ceramics, not often but they can be). Also the cost of the neo drivers/speakers might be more than simply selling your present cab and buying something lighter.

For 'me' yes. The pedal functionality is reasonably straight forward but to amend/edit and store etc it was a chew on and so many things to do that weren't obvious or intuitive. Spent ages searching for Youtube vids to show how to do stuff... and everything I did had to be done/redone every time.

Tonex One - should have been the answer to my needs but what a god awful user experience it is; editing etc. is woefully too complex and counter intuitive. It went straight back to Thomann.

2 x 210 stacked vertically. Take 1 to rehearsals or small gigs; 400w 8ohm or 800w 4 ohm.

Tragic. I never met him in person but we've messaged over the years and I felt like I knew him and he was a friend, which says something about him as a person. Thoughts with his family and friends. R.I.P.

Any news?

No disrespect but your guitar isn't worth £3000... it is 'used' (it might be immaculate/unplayed but still not 'new') and by your own admission worth about £2000; so realistically they have in fact offered you your expected value of 50% of £2000 = £1000. It has always been the case that a High St retail store will offer the absolute lowest value for a trade in. They have overheads, tax, paperwork, come-back concerns and ultimately have to make a profit never mind just breaking even. I'll concede that your expectation of the Ric for a used Spector @ £1700 isn't totally out of the question. As has been suggested, BassBros or similar might give you a better trade price but I'm 99% sure that if you sold on BC and had the readies in your hand you'd get the best deal buying the bass you are after... possibly even cheaper on BC.

Strings through body doesn't factor with bridge locking screws. It used to be that bridge screws were generally slightly larger dia and had less tolerance than modern bridges; as such the bridge height screws 'could' (not always) vibrate and lower of their own accord. Several manufacturers cured this by adding this locking screw. However, it was a fix to a problem that not all bridges suffered and often you can just take them out... I've often forgotten to tighten them on some of my basses and I only notice several years later when I go to adjust the bridge!

Where there is a fine line between having lovely stereo sent by an engineer who I can trust or me having control of bass level in a multi band, quick turn round scenario... it works for me.