warwickhunt

Just out of interest what does the 2112 give or not give that the VT gives (or not gives)? Can one do something the other can't?

Not if you use and are referring to one type of bass that has the same fixed EQ.

I ran a set as FOH PA for our pub band for 15 years or so; when we folded I did use them as a trial for a bass rig but they were heavier/bulkier than my regular cabs so I sold them. No better or worse than many 2x15 rigs of the day.

At the right price I'd have bought this but it requires a full strip down and sand back... not at that price though.

It was the stains around the controls which look like someone has splashed something. Not a problem if you don't care but if I was paying £1350 I'd want it to be a bit tidier.

Ah OK, I was reading it different as you'd easily drop a B down to A# or A with a regular extender; you'd not need to drop it twice to get from B to A.

You need to consider the string tension on a regular E string that is expected to drop to lower than a 5 string's B string... it'll be flopping like a floppy thing!

It sold once already by the seller... back up for sale again. Close up of the pics shows lots of strange stains, no idea how they occurred.

Korg Pitchblack/Pitchtune or some such name. Clear to read and it can be reversed. ...and it appears to be less than 50% of the TC

Interestingly as I view it, you are simply trying to achieve a sound that you desire by the simplest means possible. I found that an active Streamer at max bass + treble (no mid control) gave me a core sound I liked and it never saturated the front end of my amp to the point of distortion. I concede that I could likely get the same result if I left bass EQ flat, turned up the input gain and boosted the same B + T frequencies that the onboard preamp was set at BUT... there's no guarantee that an amp I was plugging into had the ability to boost those same frequencies. Does that make sense?

Vintage (80's) 2 band active Warwick Streamers... I've always played with the B & T fully whacked up and the amp EQ almost always flat. Essentially I'd have been putting in a smiley face EQ into the front end of the amp.

Why would it be a sacrifice? Use the profit to make/buy an amp with even better tone. I've known many occasions where I thought I had the best sound I could get... till I found something better.

I recently spent a few minutes explaining to an in-house engineer that my ampless set up inc a few pedals as I needed to replicate the sound of a 12 string bass (tribute to Cheap Trick). The first thing he did was produce a DI box and ask me to plug my (4 string) bass into it... Hmmmmm!

TBH there's a lot of variables and unless you know the exact spec of your other speakers (not just 8 ohm 200w or whatever figure), you run the risk of having an unpredictable outcome. You can of course just bung any 8 ohm 10" driver and crossing your fingers but I'd be messaging MB or their distributor; someone on here might know the spec or you may find someone selling identical drivers!

It sounds like you've tried lots of options and there is divided opinion on pups v preamp replacement; so can I just through into the mix that sometimes when a bass doesn't sound good, it is the bass! Some basses can have various reasons why they lack resonance or have too much in certain areas and no amount of tweaking other areas, resolves this. I've known basses have neck pockets that weren't secure enough (screws loose easy fix), nut cut so badly strings didn't sit full depth and transfer vibration and worst of all, plain badly seasoned/dried timbers that just leached certain resonances. If you love the bass and need to persevere I'd go with the option that is easiest reversed and achieved with the least loss; a pre amp pedal does exactly what an on board pedal does but... your amp has a preamp which should allow adequate manipulation. Can you borrow pups from another bass or source appropriate ones 2nd hand?

I'm sure @agedhorse will be along shortly, he's on the ball with stuff.

A professional repair technician put a 4 ohm driver in a cab rated at 8 ohms and populated by all 8 ohm drivers... you've had a lucky escape that he is busy! If you have a valve amp you really need to get the ohmage sorted. If you have a solid state amp it is less of an immediate issue as your amp is likely to go down to 4 ohms but it is not good for the drivers to be mismatched like that.

Just got this and a friend was playing it the other day, he played it 5 minutes before I told him it was 32" not 34"

It's misleading but many people refer to Class D as 'digital' and it isn't worth getting hung up on it; the terminology may be wrong but it isn't like folk don't know what you mean. Aside from Peavey I'm sure I've seen a few manufacturers refer to their amplifiers as being 'digital' when in fact they are Class D power sections.

I'm sure there is a 'sticky' on the forum with recommendations. In the North I'd say it has to be Dave Wilson @ Hexham or Paul Richardson Guitars @ Durham (look him up on FB). Both are top notch and if they can fit you in (if the price is right) it'll only cost a tenner to post it... probably cheaper than driving to your local guy.

Not in the UK obviously! I taught in school for 15 years as a generalist teacher but with responsibility for the Music curriculum. I took early retirement at 55 partly due to the stress of the job and I retired with 15/80ths of my average wage... not a very big pension but my choice. I supplement my present pension income with gigs, supply teaching and casual work.

So the cover will cost you £10.60 and a pick-up with cover is £20... might be just me but I'm thinking buy the latter and stick you black cover on it and flog the pup with black cover for £15-£20.

Reverse calculate the numbers; how much do 'you' need to live on now and in the future. Base it on per annum, ideally calculated by putting all of your other income streams and EVERY outgoing into a spreadsheet (I downloaded one from some money saving site), be sure to assess your fuel costs if you need to start travelling under your own steam. Divide your necessary income by 52 and that is how much you are going to need to generate EVERY week to make a living. Be sure to bear in mind that had you done this 4 years ago, your mortgage interest would have been 0.5% not 5% and your heating costs would be 50% of what they are now... do we know what 4 years in the future will bring? I've no idea what number you will have come up with (are you single, married, family; where do you live for housing costs) in your calculations but I'll hazard a guess that you will need a minimum of £500 a week. That could be 1 or it could be 3 gigs every week just to generate enough income to live on. If you don't get bookings, fall ill, you are going to need to do more than that number of gigs. This work will invariably be every weekend and will entail long days if it is corporate or wedding based, if you want a few weeks holiday or weekends off you are going too need to increase the number of gigs (or increase your fees) to cover this. Have you also considered tax and NI? You'd be silly to not declare your income and pay tax and if you aren't paying NI this will affect you state pension! I know people who play in function bands and generally the bigger/better corporate/wedding bands are run by someone and you are a hired gun. Bands such as this can't afford to be set up like a bunch of mates where you all phone around and ask who's available for certain dates/locations; the leader/owner of the band takes gigs regardless of your availability and it's tough if you can't make it. Often these gigs are reading gigs where sets are issued based upon the needs of the client. Consider if you were to take a low pressure job and just play the pubs for £100 per gig... what are your earnings then?