warwickhunt

Leo Fender got it wrong... why should we go easier on anyone else?

The early Streamers were more hand-finished and 'curvier'. Updates and CNC machining etc have certainly altered it but it is personal preference as to whether it is worse/better... worse imho.

That whole 'tube' to increase contact area and thus increase sustain... WTF. The ball end seats at the end of a tube, ergo the very base/start of the string won't be in direct contact with the tube unless the tube is the 'exact' diameter of the string. You'll gradually get contact with the string till you have full contact/pressure at the start of the tube... the break angle the same as any bridge saddle. Saying all of that I'd love to see the science that will show that this system has significantly more sustain than say a body through stringing. I'm also puzzled as to the 3cm of travel for that bar/tube if you need to wind it right back for the E string intonation and than you want to raise the action; is there room in the housing? Essentially the cam to change string height doesn't travel up/down, it just rotates. Surely the tube can not rotate around the barrel to the same degree when it is fully wound in, as it will when wound out!

Saw this on a FB post and it made me smile!

When you say "they both have the G saddle as the furthest forward", do you mean the G string is longer or shorter than the E string on those basses (length being between the nut and the saddle break angle)? Furthest forward could be read to mean either.

Nordstrand Acinonyx? Quite distinctive and quirky but quality parts and the necks are lovely.

Some 80's / early 90's Warwicks are like this. I always go a touch at a time and never assume it is going to be righty tighty.

I decided today that I'd fettle my old Godin fretless as I've not played it for a while due to the fact I had a few issues with it: 1. overpowering E string. 2. treble side slightly high at bridge. 3. bad static/crackle when adjusting the sliders. 4. intermittent fault on the output. Whipped the bridge/piezo out and someone has previously fitted a nasty shim... removed and that fixed 1 & 2. Took out the preamp / EQ and cleaned the slider tracks with anti-static spray and a cotton bud (very dirty)... fixed 3. Took off the output plate/jack and hey presto a chunk of tin foil trapped in between the contacts! No idea how that got in there or why but it isn't in any more. Glad I dived in and did that as the bass plays and sounds lovely. Moral of the story; don't put off till tomorrow!

1. The overall route shape is period correct and looks original. 2. The output route however looks to be enlarged. Can't say for sure from that pic but it looks to be freshly drilled timber. 3. As Kev said, for this period you'd expect to see a sealed epoxy MEC preamp and also as pointed out, wiring was all solder joints not push fit connectors. None of the pots look original but that is fine if you don't want vintage correct and like the upgrades. 4. That external power thing just looks a pain in the derrière! How do you actually plug it in? D you have to take out all of the screws etc?

My original Infinette (front right of pic) which I got from the Bass Doc in Newcastle. I bought an Overwater 5 string off Dave Wilson (the go to man in the North for refinishing) to do a swap for the Infinette as that was the only trade the guy would do. I had it for many years and foolishly sold it to a guy in Canada as he made me a buy price offer that I couldn't refuse! I'd recognise my bass anywhere even if the pups have been taken out (which were custom order Wizard pups). I still have the other one BUT the one on the right was 1lb lighter! I almost bought it back from a shop in the USA a few years back but by the time I'd communicated with the shop and got shipping quotes etc, it had sold. I'd buy it back tomorrow.

It is literally 1mm below, you can see light if you put a torch behind it. When I say open chords, that patently doesn't include striking the E string! I can play an open A chord if I go light but you are correct the chordal aspect is pretty much for chords up the neck and/or on the 4 high strings.

Now fettled! Got the bridge as high as poss and saddles as low as poss (to the point where the G string rested on the back of the bridge) but the E string defied me. I had to hacksaw the tip of the adjuster screw off (6-7mm) but left the saddle on when I cut it to act as a die when it unwound. No spring on the E string now but at least it sounds in tune above the 3rd fret (it struggled to sound in tune just playing open chords before).

Mine is the Squier version so I need to decide between drilling 2 holes or shortening 2 screws.

I took the springs out of the E & A strings to get the saddle back far enough to get 'near' intonation but sadly as soon as it gets back past 50% (which isn't a great distance), the screw (bolt really) starts to ramp up until the intonation screw actually interferes with the string itself. I'll take a look at reversing the bridge but I'd be concerned that the opposite would start to take affect (B & E high strings hitting intonation screw).

Would you want to test the wrath of the Ric Police?

I hope nobody is pinning hopes on Paypal changing a policy that they clearly define in the T&C just because a bunch of well intentioned people were scammed on an online marketplace. That's not to have a pop at anyone but Paypal make it simple; it's free to send money to friends and family (with no protection) OR you send money for purchases which has a charge (and there is insurance). Oddly enough I've sold stuff on here and on FB and I don't accept Paypal in any form from a newbie as it is open to abuse against me. If someone dealing with me doesn't want to do their research on my honesty and history and pay by BACS that is absolutely fine and no hard feelings.

Are you 'always' going to have an amp that will drive x2 4 ohm cabs? Your present power amp can but not a lot of dedicated bass amps will. You'd not notice a massive difference between (otherwise identical) 4 or 8 ohm cabs but a pair of 8 ohm makes more sense longer term.

Off the top of my head I think the USA Ray 5 is an Alnico magnet so you'd need to ensure you were comparing like with like and the preamp has as big an impact on sound as the pups do. In summary; to get near in tone you are going to have to source the same pup AND preamp.

For me the only niggle that I MUST sort is the intonation. The E & A saddle screws are short but oddly you can't wind the saddle back far enough as the angle of the intonation screw increases to where the screw starts to dig into the underside of the string. When I get my backside in gear I'll cut the excess off the E & A screws.