warwickhunt

Hmmmm is it technically 'change' if you don't sell a former amp? I presently own 5 amps bought in that last 2 years... in my defence I have sold one this year (#6).

I'd use a different rehearsal room! I've been playing bass 40 years and I've had 1 amp die that was out of the blue (you often get clues that things aren't right). I started carrying a 'spare' DI or preamp pedal just in case and on that occasion I quickly went pre pedal into PA (bass into foldback). ANY bit of kit can go wrong btbh a power amp is less susceptible than a bass amp. Why not just buy a 2nd bass amp that can handle stereo 4 ohm or 2 ohm? You can then go pre pedal into 'new' amp and no need for your Markbass. As for overhang... stand the amp on its edge /side beside your cab (or even flat on the floor behind).

If your preamp is in a pedal the simplest/cheapest route is to buy a stereo power amp that can drive a pair of 4 ohm cabs... or am I missing something? You could also use your Markbass head as a preamp/slave and drive the external power amp.

I experimented with this 20+ years ago and as Bill says, different amps are configured in different ways. You can easily split the signal from your bass via a pedal and send to two diff amps/cabs. Added advantage that you can treat the two signals with effects etc and keep one signal pure.

Did I not read this earlier on today with loads of replies? Just wondering what didn't work out.

Don't confuse it with H&Kers later ranges, the Bassbase range is up there with the best... but it isn't class D, so not 'fashionable'! Vids on youtube and reviews on the web.

Cheers Luke. I'd certainly put the H&K Bassbase 600 up against the best of EBS... at 50% of the price (selling mine for £225 inc case - not breaking rules as it is for sale on the forum)!

Where are you based? I have the CRM version and if you are local (I'm in the NE) you're welcome to borrow it... sadly it's getting no use by me.

Chalk/Cheese (I mentioned this in my first post of this thread). They are worlds apart; I've used the non-RS cabs in rehearsal rooms and it was a disappointing experience compared to the RS range.

I'm sure there must be bassists in your area using BF and/or TC that could let you try? Problem is that we all have a different take on tone, it isn't quantifiable and it is very personal. Folks will 'generally' promote what they use (I am). Throwing it out there, I could give examples of a couple of more cabs that I think are as good as those discussed (not the ones I use) and that will give you 'old school'... depending on budget. *edit* Actually what's wrong with buying a used cab, trying it and selling if you don't like it? I could buy a used TC 212 tonight (locally) that would set me back £225 (with cover), I bet I could sell it for that if I didn't like it.

It really is difficult and you'll need to try them as I've tried a couple of Barefaced cabs in the past and they will be tonally 'nothing' like the TC RS212.

I was putting myself through Uni as a mature student... I had a mortgage to pay.

Honestly I was good but they wanted note perfect 'at the audition', which I could have done if I got the gig. If I'm honest the band weren't right for me and I wasn't right for them; I'm chilled and go with the flow, they wanted stuff as it was recorded on the studio album, learned from the get-go.

I've been to see enough bands to know that the 'singer' rarely sings the recorded part never mind the bass player, added to which I love making my own bits. However, if a bass part has an absolute recognisable part (Money) you can't alter it. Saying that, I once auditioned for a Simply Red tribute band (it was a while ago) and learned the 'gist' intending to busk the rest (I had the best of it nailed and was confident in the passing notes/phrases)... I was shown the door in about 10 minutes... sometimes you have to learn it note for note.

Hey, even the neck pocket is stamped 'Pale Blue'! Love a Sterling... but dislike that dark blue, so it's win/win for me!

My skin was breaking out in cuts, scratches and gouges just looking at that restring! I've also never heard Money played in 4/4 before!

Be aware the RS range (2x10 1x12 2x12 4x10 or 1x15) are the ones I'm talking about; I've tried other TC cabs (cheaper) and they are not a patch.

TC RS210 (21kg) - It isn't a '15' but research will show that speaker diameter increase doesn't necessarily mean increase in bass. I have a pair of these (used with Handbox WB100 valve amp) and they give me a full, fat, deep yet punchy tone. I've had plenty of experience with that honky/boxy sound and I hate it!

Nailing their colours to the mast with their target audience then.

Good call to let it settle. Not all necks respond straight away and being a natural material, wood needs to find its own way and different cuts/timbers/constructions do it at different rates. MM necks are pretty consistent and good quality so hopefully it'll not be an issue.

Correct, I don't know you but I do know Chris. What you've said 'is' my point and we are saying the same things. If someone with experience were to pick up a bass they'd know within 5 seconds what probably needs adjusting and/or if there is an issue that might come to light. I was basing my comments on the assumption that the OP isn't that experienced and lots of info/opinions re. adjusting truss rods possibly isn't the first course of action for a newbie. It's far too easy to dive straight into truss rod adjustments BUT that is the one thing that can go badly wrong. The user could be unfamiliar and adjust the wrong way (as you know not all rods are installed righty/tighty but most advice/tutorials will tell you to adjust thus), use the wrong sized allen key/screwdriver (hopefully not the latter on the former but I've seen it done) etc and it could exacerbate an issue. Conversely, starting with a nice easy adjustment on the bridge MIGHT take the action to where the OP wants to be. I likewise agree with your comment that there MAY be an issue somewhere, hence the bridge adjustment first (IF you don't have much experience). We'll get there in the end.

I think if you have experience (ie Beedster), you get a 'feel' for what needs doing and don't always follow one route. During Lockdown I've bought 4 basses (I put the Lockdown bit in to justify the purchases) and none arrived ready to go for me. I literally pick a bass up and look at it, plonk a few notes and can pretty much gauge if I need to adjust saddles, truss rod or even the nut (the last one being rarely). I then set about doing the most obvious and then fettle it in increments from there. Rarely does a bass just need either/or truss rod/bridge adjustment when it comes to getting an instrument to play how you like. I'm with Beedster that a bass maxxed out on the saddles and too high to comfortably play (for the new owner) would be a case of bringing them down to a mid point... though I sometimes adjust to the point they are almost flat on the board and go from there and then seeing how things 'feel'! On the point of 'feel' I've never used a feeler gauge or other measuring device in 40 years of playing/setting up basses. Early days I used to pay to have a bass set up and I can appreciate that sometimes the pro's need to have points of reference especially if they don't know a customer. However, once I sussed what a set up is all about, I just started tweaking and fettling to my heart's content.