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warwickhunt

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Everything posted by warwickhunt

  1. Cheers Andy. If it hadn't been usurped by a full valve amp, it'd be going nowhere!
  2. You can't tell but the outer bands of maple are the same flame but they are cut at a different angle (aid stability in the wood I suppose) and the flame is on the side not the back. anzoid - in a year or two... stranger things have happened.
  3. That time of the decade for me to have a clear out. 2007 Special Edition UK. Swamp Ash body, Koa top (flamed) with matching headstock facing. 3 piece Maple thru neck (centre section flame maple) with a volute; maple fingerboard. MEC $$ pups and pre. Pups can be individually switched series/parallel/single-coil. No neck break, no truss rod faults, no electrical issues; there is one small ding at the end of the fingerboard but otherwise no dings, dinks or bucklerash. JAN III nut so no broken tabs on this. Weight: 8lb (digital scales) Comes with a Warwick gig bag or can upgrade for delivery to a Hiscox hard case for +£30 I might be interested in trade for a Zon USA bass.
  4. If I was absolutely honest... refinishing it would spoil it and I'd defo leave it as is!
  5. I have very few things that I've not tried before or would want... worth asking via PM
  6. It's technically neither a Stage I or II bass and pretty unique in the Warwick range due to the construction and pup choice. Bartolini Soap Bar pups matched to an MEC preamp... a LOT of headroom with this pup/pre set up. Birds Eye Maple body, centre joined with walnut slice with more Birds Eye Maple on the reverse... essentially an all Birds Eye Maple body which accounts for the weight and tone. 3 piece Maple neck with an Ebony fingerboard. Condition is generally very good but it does have player wear as in discolouration. No cracks or major dings and no truss rod/neck problems. Some of the hardware was badly tarnished and has been replaced (inc whole bridge which is not cheap). Comes with a Warwick gig bag or can upgrade for delivery to a Hiscox hard case for +£30 I might be interested in trade for a Zon USA bass.
  7. Warwick Thumb 1985 'JD' bass That time of the decade for me to have a clear out. I've cribbed some of Luke's info re. this bass (it was previously for sale on here and I did a deal with a Sadowsky for this) It's a pretty much all original 1985 JD Thumb bass, one of the first 150 ever made. This is the second revision with the classic body shape, with the early shorter horn. Back in the days when Warwick was all about small scale handbuilt production. Why only pretty much all original? The german session musician that Luke bought it from had it refretted with period correct steel frets (back in 85 these didn't have the bronze alloy frets). It's got that thin, skinny neck common of this era. Weight is 8lb 15oz... under that elusive 9lb mark! It doesn't state JD on the truss rod cover but back then all Thumb basses were "JD". The truss rod cover is quite special - it's made of solid Mother of Pearl! According to an email conversation with HP Wilfer of Warwick this was quite an expensive feature and used in the early days to designate any "custom shop" models built to a particular spec. In this case the active SD active pickups and the brass saddles on a black bridge are slightly different to what you would expect. Luke asked and he couldn't remember who it would have been built for. You won't find many Warwicks with one of these truss rod covers. Jack Bruce had one on his 1985 fretless. Plays great, and has a nice low action all down the 26 frets, it sounds great with the classic thumb bass sound (piano like?) but comparing it to some later thumbs which had more of a middy compressed tone this is slightly more open sounding with a big fat bottom end. Apart from a small chip to the corner of the truss rod cover it's in great condition for a 35 year old bass, actually it would probably be in a pretty good condition for a 3 year old bass. Comes in a Bass Centre branded '90's Warwick gig bag in usable condition but with the cable pocket zip broken. If it needs to be posted could add a generic hard case for an extra £20.
  8. Fender Precision (MiM) That time of the decade for me to have a clear out. I have no idea of the age of this bass but it isn't one of the roadworn series, however I believe that the vol/tone controls are either proper vintage jobbies or possibly off a roadworn bass. Body / paintwork is in good condition with a small ding/chip though the paint above the strap button. Typical P width neck but not a big handful. Hardware is all in good condition. Just over 8lb 12oz in weight. Bass presently sports an anodized scratch plate but will come supplied with an additional tortie plate that was original to the bass. Comes with a Fender gigbag Extras - can swap gigbag to a Generic case for £20.
  9. Warwick Streamer LX bolt-on - 1997 That time of the decade for me to have a clear out. Solid 2 piece centre jointed Maple body with wenge neck and wenge fingerboard. Body is in fair condition for 23 years old; a few scrapes, light rash and dings but nothing structural at all, all cosmetic. Not a baseball bat neck, in fact quite slim with a headstock volute for strength. Hardware has minimal tarnishing from 23 years of use. Just over 9lb 2oz in weight. MEC pups and pre, all original inc brass JAN I nut (none of those silly plastic jobbies here). No neck break, no truss rod faults, no electrical issues. Comes with a Warwick gigbag Extras - can swap gigbag to a Generic hard case for £20 extra or a Hiscox case for £40.
  10. Warwick Streamer Stage I (SSI) - 1990 That time of the decade for me to have a clear out. Lightly flamed solid Maple body and neck with a wenge fingerboard. Body is in good condition for 30 years old; a small ding to the underside of the bottom horn (visible in the last pic) and the usual grubby thumb mark above the pups from use/resting. Slim neck with abalone dot inlays. Hardware has the usual bit of tarnishing from 30 years of use. Just over 9lb 2oz in weight. MEC pups and pre, all original inc JAN I. No neck break, no truss rod faults, no electrical issues. The bass would benefit from a good clean possibly a rub down and waxing but only because it is a well gigged and loved bass; if you want a uber-clean bass I can do that work at extra cost. Comes with a Warwick gigbag Extras - can swap gigbag to a Hiscox case for £30. Will strip, sand and wax the bass for £150.
  11. I 'really' didn't think I'd ever part with this or be without a Thunderfunk (used them for almost 10 years) but I now use one of those new fangled full valve amps from Poland, so this needs to go to a new home. Comes complete with a shallow Boschma flightcase; please note that this has a slide out perspex cover which I've modified to fir over the DI output pot and as such I've removed the rubber knob. If you want to you could cut a wider slot in the perspex to accommodate the knob being fitted... I haven't bothered. This is not a heavy amp for what it is and does, easy one handed lift. Don't need any amps or cabs but vintage Warwick are always tempting! Thunderfunk Bass Amps are the direct descendants of the amp that Jaco Pastorius loved, the legendary AMP BH-420, improved, and handmade in the U.S.A. by Dave Funk. Quieter than other amps, with TWO great sounding DI's, it's perfect for Studio or TV use. The Thunderfunk's tone is achieved by using high quality film caps in the preamp's signal chain... just like a high quality mixing board. Twenty-five times more expensive than electrolytics used in other amps, film cap's tighter tolerances maintain phase coherence through the amp, producing a focused punch unlike any other amp. Add two to three times the filter caps of other amps, you get a round, focused bottom that doesn't roll around the stage but instead projects into the room. Dynamic range is a function of power, transient response, and quiet. Thunderfunk purposely doesn't use toroid transformers as they've found they don't sound as good as the old-fashioned "EI" iron. And to reduce hum, they add a "hum-bucking" wire across the transformer to inject hum into the preamp's ground cancelling the radiated hum achieving an amp quieter than an equivalent toroid powered amp. With their unique "SS/Tube Switch" you'll be able to choose from a super clean solid-state tone for slap and double bass playing, to a gutty, warm, tube-tone for all the rest. 750-watts RMS into 4 Ohms "The Switch" with indicator LEDs New Mute Switch with indicator LED Limiter Aural Enhancer 4-Band Parametric Equalizer Timbre Control Headphone Jack/Line Out Line In New Pre-EQ Balanced DI Output Post-EQ Balanced Output w/Level Control Ground Lift Switch for both XLR's Out 40,800uF Supply Filter for Deep Response and Increased Mids Clarity AC Signal Coupled to Reduce Input Pops Pre-EQ Effects Loop Post-EQ Effects Loop Jacks by Switchcraft and ADC (of Minnesota) 2-1/4 in. speaker outputs 2-Speakon outputs +1/-1 Aluminum Chassis Weighs only 17 pounds Time Delayed Turn On Quiet AC Power Switching 100/120/220/240v operation Quiet and reliable Auto-Fan with Backlite!
  12. I owned one of these back when they were new and just released, I bought this particular amp off a fellow BCer as a back-up and out of nostalgia. It's as good as I remember but seeing as how I've now got 4 amps... I don't need 3 back-ups! The amp had a new power switch and service done when I bought it. Lots of info on the internet re. these professional level amps. Please don't confuse this with the Basskick series, these are a step above and really are the mutts nuts. No class D power ratings just old school transformers and bags of power/volume... though you can practice in silence through the headphone output. 600w (RMS) into 4 ohms though it will operate at 2 ohms with 1.000 watt. Features a dual-channel tube-driven preamp, with a Varimetric EQ and a notch filter which is useful if plugging in an acoustic bass and you want to dial out unwanted resonances. DI is transformer balanced with ground lift switch. MIDI optional MSM-1 - you can buy a plug and go midi module from H&K that gives access to a wealth of options. Effects Loop serial Footswitch/Stageboard Stageboard; switching Functions EQ on/off, A, B input (not included) I really don't want to run the risk of damage in transit, so collection or sensible meet up point is the way forward (NE England). Sorry I really don't need any gear as a trade. .
  13. We use a dep drummer quite regular who has a Natal kit in matching colour... that's when I use it (call me shallow)!
  14. A personal observation re NT BO - I've never managed to get the same snap/attack from a NT that you can from a BO but then I don't generally do slap. I also think the sustain thing is so marginal that the human ear would struggle to hear which sustained the most... a new set of strings would make WAY more difference on either bass.
  15. There's a thread running on this, it might be worth checking that for views and thoughts.
  16. Very easy mistake to make, markers are fleur-de-lisle and do look like the blockier Spector markers.
  17. That'll be the red Spector that is masquerading as a Warwick Streamer (5th Anniversary Ltd Ed); the thinnest neck this side of an Ibanez (slimmer than any other Warwick or Spector) and the lightest Warwick I've ever played. House fire - I'd save that one and the 91 Infinette that I've owned from new.
  18. I've had them mounted on walls and some kept in cases but I can't claim to have managed a pic of them all... certainly not at once. I know at least 10 of them are still owned by Basschatters. Some of those I presently owned are here but I moved house just after this pic and I've not had the opportunity to get hangers back on the walls.
  19. Let's set the record straight; more than 60 Warwick basses but easily as many of all other brands! My story/secret secret to owning that many basses is to marry an understanding woman/man/partner, hold down a day job, don't squander money (basses aren't squandering btw) and most importantly... don't have kids!
  20. It's really hard to formulate a reply re. Warwick, never mind comparisons with Mayones (or any other manufacturer); so I'll start with the Warwick though it may sound like a history lesson as I don't know if you are only buying new. My views are based on presently owning 10 Warwicks and having owned at least another 50... not one bought new and no Rockbasses. New - If you are buying new the issues with truss rods, breaks, nuts, sockets are all pretty much a thing of the past BUT you are in the realms of a massive range of basses from Chinese RB basses up to German CS and priced accordingly. Sadly the highest grade are now into boutique bass category and price range. Used (vintage) - If you are talking 80's and 90's then the plus side is that you are only discussing instruments made direct by Warwick in Germany (OK... apart from the MIJ Dolphin Pro II), so no clouding of country of origin. Issues with jack sockets cost £5 - £10 to sort and generally should have been done by this point. Neck breaks at headstock and truss rod issues likewise should have occurred by now, if they haven't chances are they are OK. I've had 2 truss rod issues out of nearly 60 used basses and owned 2 further basses that had historical breaks/fixes... maybe some context? Model - You have everything from the Spector copies of Streamers (Stage I & II), through the Infinity, Thumb, Corvette, Dolphin, Katana, Darklord, Nobby... and a few others I can't think of off my head. Each has pretty much a distinct and different tone (the Streamer is 'probably' the most generic but not diminished because of it), further compounded by the fact that bolt-on models can/do sound different to neck-thru models and many of the ranges come in both. Oh... and you also have all of the Limited Edition models. The commonest models are; Streamer - ergonomic, well balanced, not extreme. Stage I & II very different tonally. Thumb - unique tone and appearance, can be heavier than it looks like it should be for its size, first position stretch isn't great for certain people (I still own one and play it seated). Corvette - well balanced, broad range of pup options inc $$ which could suit heavier styles. Infinity/Infinette - an upgrade to the Corvette that is chambered. Dolphin - like the Thumb a very focused tone with great balance but some can be heavy and necks generally broader. Weight - I presently own a bunch of Streamers and they range from 8lb to over 10lb (the latter being a Ltd Ed with a dense piece of maple as the body). I've got a Thumb from 1985 that is less than 9lb but a friend has one from 1991 that is 9lb 10oz. I've owned a couple of Corvettes, again presently 8lb 5oz but as much as 9lb 8oz in past basses. Actually I could give you personal experience of having held basses that go from low/mid 8lb to 10lb BUT I've owned other manufacturers basses that are likewise broad ranging (Lakland is a classic example). Neck profiles - Oh gawd... they range from super slim up to baseball bats and this is compounded by the various outsourced ranges available. You also have the option of a 'Broad Neck' on some basses, with wider string spacing. Pups - Used older models can have pups from: MEC, EMG, Bartolini, Seymour Duncan, Alembic and a few others I'm sure. You can get gold and silver MEC models (active/passive) EQ - 2 or 3 band active or passive (German models are switchable... but some are still technically active even when in passive), again early basses could be EMG, MEC, SD, etc. Bridges/Nuts - 2 pieces bridges are multi-adjustable inc string spacing. Early and CS models can have solid brass bridge plates which can add a bit of weight and sustain (allegedly). The bridge saddles can corrode but parts are available. Earliest JAN nuts in brass were great (never glued on properly but easily fixed), the Mk II models were made of chocolate and were an embarrassment. They seem to be sorted again now though. I can't say that I'm well up on a few of your musical choices but for a 'rock' orientated sound, you could theoretically take any of the above basses and make them fit but the $$ range gives you more scope for a fuller tone. The Thumb bass is used in a few rock bands for it's focused tone. The Dolphin and Infinity don't seem to feature in your choice of bands style but that's not to say they wouldn't! If you narrow down new/used and a price range, I might be able to refine the above! LOL Mayones - I've had the chance to play with 2, a Jazz style and a BE model. The Jazz (was it a Jabba?) sounded like a good Jazz and was probably put together way better than most Fender Jazzes I've played. It was different tonally but I could get it to sound like a Jazz on steroids. The BE model oddly, I thought sounded a bit like the Dolphin I had. Again, well put together but REALLY hard to compare to a Warwick in other ways. Phew... later!
  21. Where do you live? I'm in the NE and I've a few Warwick basses you are welcome to try.
  22. I don't recall putting money 'into' transferwise (o was it a nominal amount to ensure correct account). Your bank will have an iban number for your account it isn't attributed by anyone.
  23. I wasn't sure if the Bart and/or Aguilar were factory as I've seen reference to upgrades/changes to the pre and assumed they were after-market. I've heard that the LP was meant to be great in this bass but wondered why if it was so superior, it hadn't been replicated - materials, windings etc. After all it is just lumps of metal (or metallic materials) wrapped in wire! I assume it isn't just a glorified 'wide aperture' Musicman pup under the casing?
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