WHUFC BASS

Was it the square or angled cab? I had the square cab and it sounded immense.

Nice! I had a Park valve bass head and Sound City 4x12 bass cab back in the 80s along with a 62 re-issue Precision in identical colours. Sounded amazing.

Bought some Speakon cables from Iain. Easy transaction and quick delivery 👍🏻 Top drawer mate

Was never a huge fan of Ricks, the dual-truss rod, the quite frankly hopeless bridge and just the look of them (despite Lemmy playing one) until I saw this video. I love Eddie & The Hot Rods and this is one of their most underrated tracks ...

More importantly, are they good for metal?

So that kind of puts the onus on the advocates of tonewood to prove that what they're saying is actually true. Until there is definitive proof that wood makes a difference to the tone of a solid body electric guitar or bass, it's nothing more than a meaningless statement. It appears to have become an accepted fact that's peddled by luthiers and guitar manufacturers when the reality is there's absolutely no proof to back up their statements.

They have for guitars yes and believe me, nobody got it right. The sad fact with all of us (and I include myself in this too) is that we listen with our eyes in many cases. I think luthiers have peddle myths about tonewood that simply don't stand up to scrutiny for electric instruments. At the end of the day, it's an electrical induction circuit. A test that busts the myth of tonewood:

What about the Isle of Man?

How bodies and necks interact is fundamental - of course, I'm not disputing that but as I outlined above, the neck angle, fretboard integrity, fret integrity are what should be taken into consideration. Not the wood type. The original argument was about Mo Foster's new ebony fingerboard remember? "Once wood is in there, stuff changes" - of course it will. On acoustic instruments, that's not something I'm disputing, it will absolutely make a difference to the sound of drums, woodwind instruments, acoustic guitars and other stringed instruments. The point I'm trying to make is that wood type or "tonewood" isn't a thing.

I'm saying that wood and wood type has no affect on the sound of an instrument with an enclosed electric induction circuit. The video above proves that. An acoustically dead bass as you call it has nothing to do with the wood and more to do with the following: Neck angle Warped Neck Loose frets Uneven fretboard strings - their quality and the way they're cut than the wood. Scott Devine touches on this phenomenon in this video:

Do you have any evidence for that? Not saying you're wrong, but I'd like to see some evidence.

This video would suggest it doesn't and until I see a test that completely destroys these findings I'm going with the whole tonewood thing is snakeoil and marketing

The wood certainly doesn't. I've yet to see any convincing evidence that wood type can make a difference to an electrical induction system that converts sound into an electronic noise signal.

Trust me mate, a Hi-mass bridge won't get you there, you need either a 35" scale neck, a multi-scale neck, or a some kind of sustain pedal. And if you own the Dingwall in your avatar you should be able to get that kind of sustain ... and guess what? No BBOT, Badass or Hipshot in sight ....

I started bringing my football boots to West Ham games back in the 80s in the vague hope of getting a game. I Dude ...

Things that will make a difference to the sound of your bass .... 1. Pickup type 2. Pickup placement on your bass 3. EQ (from the amp or pedal) 4. Speaker and cab configuration 5. Strings and string type 6. Number of strings 7. Technique (finger, pick, slap etc.) 8. Scale length of bass neck (especially for 5-strings and down-tuners) Things that will make no difference whatsoever to the sound of your bass 1. Body, neck, and fingerboard woods 2. Bridges (including type of metal used). 3. The colour 4. The strap 5. Your haircut/beard/tattoos Bridges are purely functional, they anchor the strings to the body and should allow enough length to properly intonate the notes on the fingerboard. If the bridge you currently have won't lengthen or shorten the string then MAYBE it's worth looking at a replacement. You can argue all day long about sustain but who really needs that much sustain as a bass player? String through the body MAY produce slightly more sustain but I refer to my previous statement. As for tone, in a blindfold test, could anybody really discern whether a track was recorded with a badass, BBOT or Hipshot? Brass, Aluminum, or alloy? I very much doubt it. If you aren't happy with the colour of the hardware then fill your boots, that's a perfectly legitimate reason for swapping out the bridge and tuners etc. but the bottom line is, if they're functional, there's really no need to swap them out IMO. If anybody is willing to do a frequency response graph test by using the same bass, same amp setup/DI setup and strings and can demonstrate the frequency differences to swapping out BBOT for a hi-mass bridge then I'll listen but again I'll say, in the grand scheme of things, the differences are negligible IMO.

Came across this one today and really not sure what to make of it ... I'm guessing it's some kind of custom bass. The fingerboard is intriguing, not sure what wood that is. The hardware looks like decent 80s Schaller hardware and the pickups appear to be Kent Armstrong single coils. The neck is bowed so this would be a real gamble as to whether it'd ever function properly though. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126064635622?hash=item1d5a09aee6:g:1MIAAOSwWmdk52VA&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwDvpu0mfxv%2BaHtmMQu%2BRhoMKDaj%2FKUqMX04JNZEywFj%2BoNTbCZQsC7mO%2FWBo%2BYSq0gNPTD397lmONoy5gXF5PtrI%2BxPuj9TMkGzxNX4m1iXcQDAgsw%2Bk263OstpjxBR%2BU9PXr9hMbWOqlpB4%2BYUcOw%2Fm1ngeERgl2t5l3Azn3xk6LjkmLmID%2FS771E5pWOC6n6h5oUiYVoyLVkisDkLPZ%2FBXZISgLcF86y30J0Qo0PmCc%2BXd8AQ89pZ%2BvF%2FtRuctew%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8jhwM7KYg