TimR

The screens are very distracting for anyone sitting near you. As has already been said, you go to watch the stage, not the surrounding audience members' phones. It's the same when there is a TV in a pub, people will be continually turning their attention to the TV screen. When we run dance competitions we allow recording under 2 criteria, your child is in the performance and you stand at the back of the hall. Standing at the back of the hall allows us to monitor who is videoing what, but mainly allows the judges to concentrate on the performances. It's a domino effect, one person does it and all of a sudden everyone is doing it.

Some of these artists need to do a gig at the Dog and Duck where the audience is either a man and his dog, or the entire pub empties as soon as your drummer starts sound checking because it mean the football has definitely finished. If someone is videoing your show, it's free advertising, unless it's theatre and then it should be all phones off as you enter. Not sure where I stand on the talking part. If you're there to chat to your mates with some live music, stand at the back. Although I've done enough jazz gigs, dinners and fetes to realise that sometimes you're just background music. All gigs are different.

But are youngsters buying them?

Yes. I don't think if you had 2 policies each of £500 that you could claim £1000. I was thinking damage to gear would be covered by the 3rd party who hit you. They'd be liable for all damage caused, not just to your car. Your comprehensive insurance would indeed detail the level of possesions covered. I think it's only covered as commuting if it's travel to your regular place of work. If you visit different sites that's business travel. But again - it's only a hobby if you're not at sole trader level. I'd be surprised if many here have business insurance specifically to cover gigging.

I wonder for how much longer though. Who is buying them new? The market must be pretty much saturated.

It was set in 2016. Its roughly the equivalent of 100-150 hours on minimum wage and I suspect its set at that level for that particular reason. Elsewhere on the Govt website it states that if the intention is to make a profit you need to be a Sole Trader, but elsewhere that you only have to notify them and fill in a Self Assesment if you turnover more than £1000. This is further complicated that if you make a 'loss' on your hobby income, you can't offset that against main income. I believe most people in that situation talk to HMRC and agree that there's no point in doing self assessment and they then write to you to agree. Interestingly if you sell a bass for over £6k with the intention of making a profit you have to inform them, but if you're not intending to make a profit, you don't. All very complicated.

My take on this is that if you have business use it implies that your tools and equipment are covered from damage in an accident and possibly if you're leaving tools and equipment in your vehicle, that makes it more attractive to theives. So normally the insurance company won't have a clue or be interested where you're going or what you're doing until you try to make a claim for musical instruments stolen from the car or damaged in an accident. And you can't double insure stuff, so if your gear is covered under a separate musical instruments/performing policy you'll only be covered under one of them. Regards the tax implications, to be able to claim tax back etc. I believe the IR are not interested unless you're operating with the intention to make a profit, and if you have a day job, you're operating as a hobby with any money earned unlikely to offset any costs. My costs just for rehearsing don't even cover what I get for gigs. I'm not sure if you could claim for the whole car and insurance as a business expense, I think just 40p per mile. I did look into it and it gets complicated tracking assets etc. Spotify subscription, mobile phone and broadband...

What exactly is causing the bleed?

If you read the reply from the Sansamp tech you asked for: It's not a 'problem'. It's how all gain structures work and and amplifier stages work. The problem is the user understanding it. If I have a PA. It has gain and volume. How you adjust gain and volume is up to the end user. Both affect the final volume. "Drive" is different as it's intention is to drive the input stage into clipping. So as you increase it the volume increases until it starts to clip. At which point the volume doesn't increase anymore, you just get more distortion (and compression). The "drive" on the other pedal is in a separate module with blend control. So doesn't affect the overall volume. It's just a case of understanding how it's designed to work and what the terms mean. A gain of 1 or 0dB is unity. Have a look at the controls on your PA. Note the 0dB level marks.

Have replied to OP. You're still trying to fix the symptom and not the root cause of the problem.

Sounds like two problems. Generator undersized or more probably cable run too long with too much load. This will cause voltage drop on stage. The amps will appear to be OK, but any digital devices will be in trouble. And at the pub, similar problem, extended circuits that haven't been impedance checked, so high resistance cause voltage drop under load. Had exactly the same when we played a school fete once. Found out after the gig that we were being supplied by 3 50m extension leads in series. 150m run of 10 amp leads. Whoops. Was OK in first set then when it got dark and teh lights came on the reverb unit in the PA died and guitarist lost his pedals.

Thing is, you have mains power for your Amp, PA and lights and the rest of the band. It's a solution without a problem. I bought a power supply for £15, like most people.

When the Sansamp technical guy comes on and clarifies it and then everyone ignores them... Read the thread chaps... 😆

Seems not Falken 1 Joyo JP-05 Harley Benton PowerPlant Mission 529 Anker Naztek And also the Songbird USB to 9v adaptor to power pedals from anything else. https://www.songbirdfx.com/products/birdcord/

These are already widely available.

Does anyone use one of these on Bass?Modded or otherwise. Any thoughts? I'm considering something to add a little bit of overdrive to tracks where rather than digging in and killing my fingers, I can let the overdrive do the work. So something with a natural responsive OD. Lots of the videos on YouTube seem to be of some nutters smashing their basses with picks so not a lot of warmth going on.

There's always the 2x12". A 3x10" would only have 4% more cone area and possibly that would be lost due to less excursion on the 10s so don't really see the advantage.

Speak for yourself.

I have a pair of BOSE Soundlink headphones that aren't made anymore. They've been replaced with the Quietlink. They're Bluetooth but also come with a short lead that plugs in and makes them wired. I had to buy an extension lead. I also have Beats flex for listening on the train etc. And some no name (possibly Sony) wired earbuds from Currys that I wouldn't have paid more than £10 for. Anything bluetooth only is no good for Bass Guitar monitoring due to latency.

I have a box of about 80 cassettes in my loft that must date between 1984 and 1985. I have to go up in the morning. Will take a photo. Definitely Pink Floyd - The Wall, Meddle, Animals and Wish You Were Here. Van Halen 1984 Ultravox- The Ultimate Collection. Depeche Mode - Construction time. Heaven 17 - Temptation (Saw them at the Jazz Cafe a few years back) David Bowie - a compilation tape I made myself. Iron Maiden - Live After Death. (1985) Thomas Dolby - Golden Age of Wireless Fleetwood Mac - Rumours U2 - Unforgettable Fire Queen - The Game and Greatest Hits. Rush - Tom Sawyer. Some weird stuff. Sky III Lloyd Weber - Variations ABBA- greatest Hits I and II. Alan Parsons Project.

It does seem a bit backward. Imagine just plugging your bass into the house patch bay. Get a level. Job done. Although tuning might be an issue. I have a DI box that cost less than £20.

I assume so otherwise he could just split the single bass DI and eq and mix his in-ears himself with whatever eq and level he wants.

Sorry. I wasn't aware you were having an argument. I was just pointing out the difference between drive and gain and the way the two units apply drive. They're overdrive pedals that emulate overdrive.

Really? It's not labelled as gain, it isn't gain. The two units operate differently. Industry standard when using gain is it increases gain. Hence the word gain. Drive is not gain.