Paddy Morris

3 hours ago, Twigman said:

IME that's not the case.

The last few gigs I've done (all fly aways) I have had Ampeg SVT or B5R heads with Ampeg 4x10 or 8x10 cabs provided.

I used to take my tecampPuma900 with me, just in case, but I've stopped taking that now as you can't really go wrong with a SVT.

 

 

Well that would be brilliant,  yes.

Well yes, but if it sounds shite to the players on stage, then it makes them play worse.

I was pressured into playing through yet another utterly rubbish venue bass amp last night.  It was one of those gigs where loads of bands had been on, and all the other bass players had (probably reluctantly) all used the same knackered, low end Ashdown rig.  No offense to Ashdown users, they make some great kit, but this thing was an old, underpowered, thin thing.  It seemed to have a compressor button that didn't actually switch the compressor off, and seemed to pull off the trick of being simultaneously too loud but also inaudible.

The FoH guy had pre-rigged it with his DI box, and it was a small stage.  I felt like it would have made me look like a real dick to insist on using my own amp, which I could have got on and off the stage in less thsn 30 seconds.  But can you imagine a situation where a guitarist would allow himself to be coerced into using some knackered old amp that happend to be on stage?  There's no way on earth.

Also, if for logistical reasons of getting bands on and off quickly, you want everyone to use the same bass amp, well why not buy something so lovely and so flexible that no one could possibly mind using it.  But house bass amps universally seem to be sourced from skips outside the local Cash Converters.

I have 2 basses I use regularly.  One is a laminate Chinese slapper.  The other is a carved Westbury (also Chinese) which I use for jazz and swing.  But they have different neck scales.  So swapping between them plays havoc with the intonation, particularly in the upper registers and thumb position.

One solution suggested by a luthier is to carve a new nut to shorten the scale of the laminate bass and make both basses the same.  This sounds expensive, and I would be spending money on the inferior instrument. 

I have read that when players hire a bass with a scale they aren't used to, they will slip the bridge slightly off the f-hole notches to tweak the scale.  Do you think that might work for me?  I would doing it on the laminate, which presumably has a more robust top the carved one.  Tone wise it's not really an issue, because the laminate is kept really heavily damped down to control feedback.

This happened to my all-laminate bass last year.  It's a rough-ass gigging bass and has had a pretty hard life to be fair.   A friend who is more of a guitar tech, injected some hyde glue in the gap and clamped it for a couple of days and it has been good as gold ever since.

Well blimey. I've learned a thing or two here.

8 hours ago, Beedster said:

My gut feel is that the acoustic tone of such a small body will not sound much like that of an upright, even less so when amplified. You could spend a lot of time and money chasing shadows 

This ⬆️

If you look at all the clever, expensive tech that Yamaha have had to employ to get even a vaguely acoustic sound from the SLB300 then it points to it being a very tricky task.  I would just embrace the sound you are achieving from it with your current setup.

Jesus. Not for the faint hearted, but really interesting.

You could try a contact mic like an Ischell C3 or a Schertler.  They are both pretty costly to buy just as an experiment though.

Blimey. How did you manage that?

I did something simlar to my chinese plywood special.  A friend who repairs guitars managed to apply a maple cleat underneath the smashed bit, then push the wood back up enough to patch it from the outside.  The bass had a black lacquer finish, so it was easier to disguise once the finish waa smooth.

I don't know if that would work on this though.

If you were happy to wait for a bit and wanted to avoid a dealer, you could advertise it in the instrument sales section of musicalchairs.info.  Quite a lot of more valuable instruments seem to sell on there.

Have you reached any conclusions yet?  I have a DPA but am always slightly disappointed with the results I get.  I also find it unusable as a gigging mic.

Have you considered trying a Nadine?  I never have, but the demos sound very good.

I think it's a lovely, growly vibe.  Personal taste, as everyone is saying, but I love it.  You could reduce the high frequency element of it quite easily with a bit of EQ, but in a band context I bet it would cut through beautifully.

I've been working my way by trial and error through bass amp heads and these are the sweeping generalisations I've arrived at:

TC - good, solid amps but the EQ generally positioned at the wrong frequencies for upright. Boomy and prone to feedback

Warwick Gnome - excellent value, but EQ bands in the wrong spots also.

Genzler Magellans 350 and 800- excellent for double bass.  Even without an HPF, there's enough tone shaping to get you a decent sound in most situations.

Genz-Benz streamliner - tube front end actually slightly more flattering to an upright bass than the more modern Genzlers.  Great.

PJB - Two Four.  Couldn't get on with it really.  It's very highly tuned to a single low frequency, so a real feedback hazard if you hit that particular note.

Traynor YBA300 - delicious, but heavy. Far too much low end unless you use an outboard HPF.  But I do use one, and I'm currently in love with the sound of it.  Just about sits neatly on top of an LFSys Monaco if you lay it on it's side.

2 hours ago, Owen said:

I must admit, I have found that any amp works for a DB as long as there is an FDeck HPF between the bass and the amp. It smooths things out and you can nuke the boominess. A Vong doobrie https://schalltechnik04.de/en/instructions/vong-filterung- would also do a cracking job. 

Yep.  HPF is a must.  God alone knows shy they are so rarely found incorporated into amp heads in the first place.

5 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

I would add the evox which repaced 2 Alto 12" speakers on poles has been great, both of my mine were second hand bought at different times (for a while I was on one evox and a speaker on a pole) - both cost around £500. We put everything through them (I also use a bam200 bass amp with a 10" gnome speaker as backup) and in general for pubs they work great and as you say, it doesn't get in the way and not so much of a cab landing on someones head issue. The biggest change was the clarity of vocals.

How were they for vocal mic feedback?  We have a loud-ass drummer, so tend to have to crank the vocals up..

Thanks Phil. Budget limited as this is for pubs, bars and coffee houses, who won't usually go above £350/gig round our way.  But it's just for 3x vocals and blues harp really. Possibly a tiny amount of mic'd guitar amp, just to sharpen it up.  And trombone, when he's available to play. But the instruments are mostly all backline.

It's mainly about not having a massive pair of cabs blocking everyone's sight lines.

Probably we will try and keep it to less than £2K.  Is that doable do you reckon?

We're looking to get a smaller PA speaker set-up.  We're currently using an XR-18 into a pair of big Behringer Eurolive 1200w speakers. The speakers are great for outdoor, or a bigish indoor venue, but are much too big for a small pub.

I see all the open mic / one man band looper type people using Bose L1 systems, but there are loads of cheaper alternatives out there now.  Has anyone had a particularly good experience with one of these Bose-a-like products?

All of this advice is good advice.  It's what I should have done, and didn't. Could have saved months, maybe years of faffing about and lots of wasted cash 

Buy a used double bass directly from someone who has been playing it themselves.

13 hours ago, Burns-bass said:

Personally, if you want to play double bass, then buy one. If you want to play EUB, then buy one. They’re different instruments really.

 

Dont buy one new, buy a used one (preferably from someone here) that has been set up and comes with the essentials (like a case).

 

The Thomann ones are fine (I’m selling one cheaply) but if you can spend a bit more something like a Boosey & Hawkes Artia bass is probably a better buy.

 

If you find something you like, share it here. There are plenty of people with lots of experience who are happy to help.

 

 

All of thi

That's good to know. Music retailers are going bust all over the place at the moment.  Good luck with the new business structure.

It will be a real shame if they do go under.  Always seemed like a good, helpful friendly bunch.

10 hours ago, PaulKing said:

Hey up @Paddy Morris- quick comparison here:

Does the transmitter unit on your NUX rattle when you shake it?

 

Just got mine 30mins ago, plugged it in and there's a fatal buzz around C. Turns out there's something rattling inside the transmitter unit, which resonates loud enough that the bass picks it up and transmits as audio signal.

So that's no use at all.

Sending straight back for a replacement and hoping its just a one-off fault, rather than design fault!

 

(Incidentally, as expected, sound appears to be a million times better than Joyo direct into Piezo - though nerdy spectrum analysis will have to wait).

Mine doesn't rattle.  Deffo send it back.

20 hours ago, PaulKing said:

Stop it, I'm skint!!  Line6 has cable tone ...  you can choose 6m or 12m!

I can't hear any difference though. I don't even know what cable tone is supposed to sound like eek.

 

I'm interested how the latency feels in a gig situation. NUX is a fraction more than the line6 - which is only ever a problem for me when I really go walkabout. Which i do occasionally.

 

I still want one for when the Line 6 craps out which it has to eventually... its done hundreds of hours.

Skint is a state of mind.  If you still have 2 viable kidneys, you're not genuinely skint in bass-player terms.

Just tried it out.  So, so clean. Better sound than your best oxygen free  copper, gold plated connector, washed in unicorn tears cable.  I would use it from choice even for a quiet gig with no leaping about.

NUX just arrived.  This is interesting from the user manual.  I can't decide whether this is a clever idea or a waste of time.  At least it seems to be switch-offable.  It points to a well thought through product though.

It also says to stay at least 6 feet away from any dual band router.  So anyone using X-Air or Midas type mixing gear with iPad control (like me, for instance) might need an exclusion zone.