Hacksawbob

There is a solderable jumper on your ladt picture that you connect for the 15, and presumably desolder for yours. It says '115 jump' on the pcb

I can't find a schemtaic for this, but you never know Behringer might send you one. I'm no expert on this stuff but my general approach is ... Visual inspection look for anything burnt, leaking capacitors, corrosion etc. Obvious stuff like checking if a physical switch has continuity, look for a thermal NTC fuse (black disk) and check fo rcontinuity. Anything like that blue relay with a model number you can lookup its spec sheet and see what it does https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/SMIH-05VDC-S-L-A.html. In order to get the DC that runs internally there will be a transformer then a bridge rectifier OR a switch mode power supply like you get in the brick that supplies a laptop, although in my limited experience switch mode is usually too noisy for audio applications. The holes in the board and white lines denote that you are still on the high voltage side there, Follow the traces and see what comes after it. Sometimes voltages are printed on the PCB, carefully (because 240V ) have a poke about with a voltmeter with the negative lead on ground and see if you can determine whether there are any DC voltages after the High side, try not to touch 2 components at once! Sorry just a jumbled mess of stuff there but you are trying to to spot anything that looks wrong or stands out.

Hi, its a fairly straight forward job if the pcb isn't damaged. I'm not local to you unfortunately, and probably not worth the postage. You could try computer/laptop repair shops, usb port repair should be on their radar.

I might be way of the mark here, but if the switched mode power supply is blown then so long as you match the voltage and amps of the original could you not substitute a power supply of similar specs?

sold my Laney Digbeth to Alex, Easy transaction great comms.

They haven't had stock anytime I have checked.

Bought a Polytune from Ander, nice easy transaction. quick postage, as described.

I did think of producing something along these lines. I don't think a printed central pin would work so well either, would be better in metal. Maybe a threaded bar that can be turned? maybe not quick release, more something to change between songs/always on. Also not a big fan of having exposed screw heads and hard edges above the strings. If there's enough interest I could have a go at it.

Here's an example of something else I made, I did some Yamaha jazz pickup covers but the bass is on loan at the mo. From a distance it doesn't look too bad, can even look quite nice if the top layer is 'ironed' but there is no getting away from it being FDM printed without finishing it somehow. If you can find someone who does SLA printing uses light and photo curing resin) they would be closer to an injection moulded finish. I got rid of mine though I hated using it and stick to FDM.

Yes and no, 3d printed items will invariably have lines in them, if you are prepared to put some time in there are ways to reduce this.

We need pics with the badge on!

If you don't have an amp already it might be.

I've often wondered if there is such a thing as a variable passive crossover much like a tone control. But instead of rolling off the highs it rolls off the lows to a tweeter. I realise I'm showing my ignorance here, but I'm curious, wouldn't this give you far more leeway when designing a cabinet? There seems to be a lack of off the shelf availability which would suggest there's a good reason why this isn't more common, although you do seem to find variable passive tweeter filters on a few hifi speakers and some bass cabinets I believe.

Tried a few different browsers, (firefox and chrome) on OSX and android, cleared cookies logged back in etc. I'm not getting any results. tested with a common word like yamaha and still no joy.

...Or you get one from the same batch with the same issue.