Hacksawbob

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322519387326?epid=885878986&hash=item4b17a74cbe:g:4hoAAOSwxvBZofei still taking the fosters a bit but works out cheaper. go off the mfr part number on the mouser site and see if you can find a UK supplier.

Actually, I think these would meet your needs, they have a 9.5 mm threaded part. 500K https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-GTRB1-504MN?qs=MAZTpT1IVl9qmb3edCk6rA%3D%3D 250K https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-GTRB1-254MN?qs=MAZTpT1IVl9TMc4dn4srkA%3D%3D

Hi Pat, might be sticking my neck out a bit but I have a similar problem and my be able to 3d print an adapter for short to long shaft to make it to a through body mounted pot. I could only find knurled split shaft 1M short pots for the active pickup project I'm working on at the mo. It may be possible to swap bits out from simiar manufacturer to create your own custom pot, but it can get a bit spendy though. I'm still early days with the adapter, I'm not sure if there is the clearance to make it work without drilling or aestheticly displeasing gaps but I'll keep you posted if I find a solution.

Hi I'm only down the road in Horwich, I could probably 3d print you something pm if interested.

Just went into the shop where I bought my 425X and found out that it used to belong to the new Queen bassist Neil Fairclough.

I have a BB425 wired with two concentric pots VT VT + switch and BB305f wired VVT, I found both of these an improvement over the stock config with more blend options.

Looking good @anrque I'll take a look inside and see if there's any debris. I have a router but it scares me using it, I toyed with the idea round over but it is so full of screws now it's probably not a good idea. Here's my latest handy work Whith the carpet tiles on the inside. Also testing a couple of smaller radius port terminations to get a what the cookbook mentions as an asymentric port. This one has a hard edge on the underside and in my 'armchair audio designer' head I think it might be better with a teardrop profile, so printing a replacement now. I'm also going to need a few differrent pipe section lengths cut for port length testing, but the chop saw was a bit tricky trying to rotate a long pipe length to get a clean edge, so I might make a jig out of the spare ply. Also added 4 more bolt fixings to cinch down the middle of the baffle, I bought an adapter for the drill so I can get the 10mm screw bolts out quickly.

Yes @Phil Starr just the 4 bolts at the minute, I'll add some screws at some point but the 24mm thick baffle is pretty solid despite the holes in it,I'll add some more bolts at the cardinal points when I can get a trip to Wilkos. At the moment I have the back on and off almost daily, once I have setled on a design I'll seal it off properly. I have added carpet tiles on the internal panels with spray adhesive and staples. Seemed like a good idea with the rubberised back and carpet material on the front. I have run some frequency sweeps and what I thought was some distortion was actually a computer case that was rattling at about 60Hz

So here is my attempt at rehousing the Scorpion speaker, not as nice as your workmanship! @anrque but it is functional. It very loud, possibly louder than the original Combo amp. It's a very full 'airy' sound that envelops you unlike the original cab which was quite punchy and focused, it is very responsive and manages the low B on the 5 string with ease. The weight is far more managable! I used 12mm hardwood ply (B&Q) which is £34 a sheet and 4 2M lengths of 20x25mm batton (actually two of these were 1x1 inch from a local timber merchant after I ran out but it works with either of these) total cost was about £50 The screws for the carcass were 6X 1 1/4" or 3.5x30mm in new money. I am handy with drills and what not, but I am no cabinet maker so excuse the rough build quility, I'm more of an IT guy I used some chunkier screws for the speaker itself, the baffle is held on whith coach bolts with some washers to spread the load, they just came out of one of those pick and mix bags you get from Wilkinsons (apologies if they are not in your area it might be more of a Northern thing.) I originally designed the front baffle to sit back in a 12mm recess, but I used some 12mm foam sealing so it ended up being flush at the front which isn't ideal, I may well revisit this with some thinner material. The ports are 3D printed to fit a 4" waste pipe, with a 73mm length, I measured this from the right angle mounting point so I think from memory it was about 38mm of waste pipe required which I cut on a chop saw and used mastic to seal it as it's so short I didn't need any additional support, the front is screwed on with the same screws I use for pickguards. there is also a port flare on the inside. The port flare ends did a great job of hiding the dodgy jigsawing that I did in the baffle! They are printed grey stone type filament as I have a load of it to get rid of and I sent Phil my black ones, I decided to add some printed corner protectors in the same colour as well. Handle and feet on the bottom of the cab were robbed off the original amp. I will add the cut sheet, this assumes a 4mm blade thickness which will just allow you to get the cuts on a 1.22X2.44 Meter sheet, (total 1.212M of material) You might want to check with the saw operator what the kerf is as they can vary between setups, also, bring a tape measure and check each cut as it comes off. I have added the amp front to this cut sheet which I wasn't sure about the exact dimensions so is missing from the photo. I have allowed for 4X front and back panels, this would allow you to make either or both 24mm thick by screwing and glueing them togeher, (or to allow for a mistake cutting the baffle) Things to do: I am toying with the idea of adding a 4 inch tweeter as the TNT160 has a crossover out, and piping this to a second practice amp which I can fit under the main amp, this might also help to balance out the head as the transformer weight makes the head carry at an angle. Also, I might add some wadding/foam internally once I have had a chance to put a frequency sweep through it. Speaker needs some protection, not sure which way I'm going to go with this possibly some speaker material rather than a grill as I think they look a bit pants. Cutsheet TNT160 cab and head.pdf

Orange 414 in Rhyl FB marketplace. £300 if anyone's looking.

And the magic number is 177mm radius to cut the hole for the Peavey Scorpion 15" speaker.

I have a box of sorts, 24mm front baffle, approx 64L internal after speaker and port subtraction I should be in the ball park of 55L Now, how to gain access if I need to. It will need to be top or bottom opener if I'm going to fix the front panel. I'm guessing some foam strips to seal it. If it's the bottom panel I guess the weight on it will be in my favour. I suspect the centre of gravity will be too far forward on this, a bit late now though

I do have black pipe, I just used a spare bit of grey so you can see the join. It's not quite an interference fit on this but very close. I'm not sure how much variation you get in pipe, but better to be marginally over than under as it can always be glued, where as the other way means faffing with sandpaper. I did give this a quick sand to remove the supports and a quick coat of black paint

Hi Phil, for all the help and support you give here I'd quite happily send you a couple for for evaluation, you can keep them if you like them. If you have any design adjsutments just let me know, I can PM you the dimensions. Tricky to get an exact figure on 3D printing costs, electricity wear and tear etc it's probably about £5 per port + design hours and prototyping costs which you divide among the number you expect to sell which is an unknown Got all the plywood in today although the saw operator didn't seem to know the thickness of the kerf so I may have a few adjustments to make.

I had another go ast the port design The first one for the external. The second one has a tighter curve, I had a read of that cookbook you mentioned Phil, there is some suggestion that asymetric ports may be beneficial. I'll print both and try them out. I'm not sure whare to take the measurement from though for the port length? I'm going to get some ply today. I'm thinking the front baffle will be made of double 12mm ply which should give some stability there. I am hoping to keep the rear with just 12mm to keep the weight down.

Here's what I am thinking may be a possibility with an internal volume of 66L give or take made from 12mm ply. Unless anyone can see anything wrong I'll see if I can get a cut sheet together. I'm not sure on bracing which seems to be necessary on the 12 inch speaker build though. Dimensions are in mm 616W X300D X437H (external).