The way to find out would be to model the response using software like WinISD. You need to know the internal volume of the cabinet and the length and area of the ports, plus the parameters of the driver you want to use which should in the manufacturer's datasheet. I'm not experienced enough to look at the output of the modelling and tell you how it will sound, but if someone like @Phil Starr has spare time they might be able to run it and give a quick opinion.
The thing is, as @bremen says, the "600W" driver rating is only half the story, basically being how much power you can put in to the driver under standard measurement conditions before something melts. The other half of the story is how far the cone can move before something breaks, and the power it takes to cause that is dependent on the enclosure as well as the speaker because the air in the enclosure affects how the speaker cone moves. To get more volume out of the same size driver in the same enclosure you are going to need the cone to move further, and it might be that the "600W" driver will hit its excursion limit at the same or even lower volume compared to the "250W" driver. If the higher rated driver is less sensitive it might even take more power to reach a lower maximum volume.