nekomatic

Fair enough, I confess I didn’t watch it.

I would file the hole into an ugly oval and hide it behind an added rectangular plate with the right size and position of holes made in it. Ask me how I know about this technique.

If I understand correctly what that board is doing, it isn’t changing the voltage itself, just requesting your choice of voltage from the USB-C supply via the ‘power delivery’ protocol. Not all supplies support all power delivery voltages though, so if you have a rechargeable power bank with a USB-C socket on it it may still only be able to put out 5 volts.

For the same amount of air moved, a bigger fan ought to be quieter than a smaller one. Some fans are just quieter than others for the same size and airflow though.

Laney R500H

Not quite sure if you’re specifically looking for bass parts that weren’t originally synth bass, but if not… Moloko - Fun For Me And how about Day Tripper?

C+C Music Factory - Things That Make You Go Hmm…

Sorry, Wilkinson’s - I’m not planning to snaffle the speakers, in case the OP wants them!

If the Yamaha supplied cables had a 10A (or less) fuse in the plugs then I’d use the same rated fuse in the new cables. I can’t think of many scenarios where it would make much difference to safety though.

Ooh, they’re worth knowing about, thanks!

The nice thing about the Antex ones is that it’s very quick and easy to change one bit for another, so you can use a little pointy one for fine work and a big fat one for wiring connectors and stuff (which makes that job SO much easier). I think you should use lead-free not so much for your health as to not have any more lead getting loose in the environment. It does really need a temperature-controlled iron though.

I put my right foot on something and rest the bass on my right leg to play sitting down. I have a guitar footstool but it doesn’t adjust low enough so I ended up getting a yoga block from Decathlon which is just right.

That’s exactly why I love the programme. It’s widescreen radio.

Copland, good shout. Appalachian Spring was definitely one of my formative classical influences. And if Holst and Walton are the godfathers of science fiction soundtracks then Copland's fingerprints are all over most Westerns. If we're on Americans then we should also have Bernstein, and not just for West Side Story or the purely rambunctious stuff like the Candide overture - there’s also the Chichester Psalms for example. If there's one composer I can nominate as underrated, it’s Szymanowski. Seeing Król Roger done live has to be on my bucket list.

I don't think that changes the voltage, so if you're trying to power the USB gadget off 9V then no. @fretmeister's link has some fun looking products but I don't see one to go from 9V to USB there, only the other way round. Something like this should work though, just mount it in some sort of enclosure: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304022853994

CPC is part of Farnell but their catalogues aren’t the same.

So much this. People are told that the reference point for classical music is Eine kleine Nachtmusik or some other iddly-twiddly Mozart, but in fifty years of exposure to classical music I’ve never got Mozart (with the possible exception of the Requiem). Shostakovich on the other hand… If you want to give your ear for harmony a workout, I’m going to suggest string quartets - the Debussy is gorgeous, Shostakovich no. 8 is heart-rending. The best way to experience any of them is to be in the same room as the string quartet, but I guess the next best way is through good headphones.

R3 makes sure Q1 is biased correctly, otherwise there would be nothing keeping the gate at the right voltage. R1 makes sure the input has a reasonable input impedance at DC which should reduce noise pickup and as you say reduce thumps on connecting the input.

I used to take my homebuilt 1x12 (long before its recent conversion into effectively a BC112 mk2) on the train and tube with the help of a pair of strap-on luggage wheels. I don’t recommend this. One time I lugged it from Clapham Junction to Archway to find the escalators not working, which was fun.

The other issue with lead is what will happen to the device at end-of-life. If it stops working and you are still around then hopefully you will be responsible enough to ensure it’s disposed of properly, though that may become harder to do as commercial electronics become exclusively lead-free. If you’re gone, how do you know it’ll be looked after correctly rather than ending up polluting the environment for future generations? I know the quantity of material involved is tiny but it still seems to me like the right thing not to use it. I don’t find working with lead free solder that hard as long as you have a temperature controlled iron and the right size bit for each job. Obviously that does involve some extra expense though.

The impression I’d picked up, mostly from discussions on here, was that larger drivers have worse dispersion than smaller ones and so a vertical 2x10 or 2x12 would be preferable to a 1x15. Until success, fame, fortune and more storage space favour me I’m not likely to be in the market for a larger-than-compact cab though, so don’t let me speak for those who are…

If your amp sounds OK through its speaker then I can’t think of a good reason it shouldn’t work through headphones, unless the headphones are rubbish. Do they sound good for listening to music from another source? It seems unlikely that your adapter is at fault, because there’s not much to it except some contacts, but it’s always possible.

I don’t always like the sound of the low notes on the B string and I sometimes think some players overuse them. That’s my controversial take for the evening. But if you need them, or you like how they sound on any particular song, then go for it. 97% of your audience won’t even count how many strings you have anyway.

Sound travels at roughly 340 m/s, so a 40 millisecond lag is like having your amp fifteen metres away. If you have some long cables and a big room or a dry day, you could try this out.

There are some free-to-download plans on the Blue Aran website - they have a 2 way design with 6in woofer that looks like the sort of thing, and the cabinet construction looks interesting. I did a quick web search for 'loudspeaker kits uk' and found lots of places doing just-add-woodwork kits, although many of them are very expensive. Impact Audio had some cheaper ones, but still £300 plus per pair. Have a look around though, you may hit on something better suited.