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Beedster

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Beedster

  1. As new strings stretch the bridge can get pulled towards the neck, if so you'll need to pull it upright frequently, but once they settle down the bridge should be stable
  2. Not really playing this so up for sale again 👍
  3. Found some further spec on the head Power Output: 200W RMS Power Requirement: 230/115/100 V Frequency response: -3dB at 35Hz and 14 kHz Speaker Outputs: Speakon/Jack High Instrument Output: Impedance 1m Ohms, input range 25mV - 1.5V p-p Low Instrument Input: Impedance 100k Ohms, input range 25mV - 6V p-p Line Input: Impedance 100k Ohms, input level 0dBu nominal DI Output: 600 Ohms balanced, level 0dBu nominal Speaker Outputs: 1/4" jack connectors for 4 and 8 ohm speaker cab configurations. Effects Send: 1k Ohms, level 0dBu nominal Effects Return: 1M Ohms, input level 0dBu Nominal Pre-Amp Tubes: 1 x ECC83 1 x ECC82 Output Tubes: 1 x ECC83 4 x 6550 EQ: Fully Passive Middle, Bass, Treble, Mid Shift, Bass Shift, Bright Mute: Mute the output of the amplifier (useful when tuning) VU Meter: Visual indication of the output level of the LB-30
  4. So I had a quick play with my damaged bass. At present to hear anything with any degree of clarity through the embryonic sound hole requires that my ears are quite a lot close than is convenient. Having said that, the tone when I could hear it was rather nice, which makes me wonder not only about a soundhole for monitoring but also possible for micing. Anyway, gonna call the luthier over the weekend and get a design agreed, I'll update as soon as done 👍
  5. Biggest challenge is going to be where you put the battery I suspect, PBasses are not an easy ask for off the shelf preamps
  6. I’ve five pairs of headphones all of which have strengths and weakness and none of which are in any real way better than any of the others. Same with hifi speakers (four sets) 🤔
  7. Really enjoyed that 👍
  8. The Precision Bass of bass amps. Just work in every setting 👍
  9. Refin in solid colour over the varnish?
  10. Won't let me play which is odd. Says I have to sign in which I've never done before., is this adult fretless content 🤣 Quite relieved really as a) Ped'll just be another bloke who plays FL better than me and b) I'll have short-scale FL GAS
  11. I'm also going to be stripping this soon (think it's also walnut), although it appears to be a very thin finish luckily. There is virtually no grain to speak of but I hope to bring out what's there as much as possible before finishing 👍
  12. I'm going to open up my hole a little (Stop Sniggering Nicole), and using a similar test get a feel for the sound, and perhaps understand what design I might need for mine. I'll update, I might even A-B playing some bluegrass root-fifths on guts in A and a little bit of Jazz on some steels for B 👍
  13. I give you a week of sanding to no apparent effect to revise your thinking 🤣 All joking aside, that was my thinking also, and still is, so if I absolutely had to strip a finish like that I'd take it to a professional, although probably not a music professional, you might might find a painter, furniture restorer or similar who'll do it for you at much lower cost than a luthier. Very unlikely and others who know the manufacturer/instrument will know better, but you might be very lucky and find that it's one of those finishes that you can pretty much peel off once you get under it?
  14. Yes agreed, but the right degree of finishing (I went fine but not too fin with the sandpaper), and the right oil and wax and even a linear and relatively low contrast grain can look good, I'm about to do the same to this walnut body, although as you can see, I've been slightly more fortunate with the grain.....
  15. Having sanded a similarly finished bass - and regretted both the time and the results - I'd recommend a stripper, it will take a few coats and some elbow grease, but it will be a whole lot less hassle and will significantly reduce the risk of over-sanding
  16. Mmm, that could be a quick and easy job or it could be a lengthy nightmare. It will almost certainly look better stripped and oiled but as you say, it's not an interesting or even especially attractive grain, so the improvement might be marginal at best. I stripped an ash body a while back and used black tinted wax, which lifted the grain nicely, might work on this bass?
  17. Expensive is, to my mind, linked to the concept of a thing being more than it's worth. A Warmoth Precision with woodwork coming in at around £600 with perhaps another £400 on high quality components, gives me a FCS level instrument at £1000, and IME I'd have to spend upwards of £3000 to get anything better from Fender. So, if I'm buying a Precision, anything over £1000 is not only expensive, but unnecessary expense
  18. IME a change in bridge can have the effect of micro EQ (change overall tonality), micro filter (notch certain frequencies), micro envelope shaper (change attack/sustain), or micro compressor (even things out a bit). On most instruments switching bridges makes little real difference, but on some it can be tangible and helpful. It's always worth some trial and error
  19. Thinking on this, not just his music but his world view was a lot of things that Springsteen’s was in the 70’s/80’s
  20. This is my solution, single PUP wired to jack 🙂
  21. Stainsby Girls was indeed a great song, very Springsteen 👍
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