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Beedster

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Everything posted by Beedster

  1. Thanks Lawrie, this is very much save it from the skip. @pete.young's Option 2 was what I was initially considering but it looks like I'm not dealing with a broken instrument but a poorly repaired one, which leads me to worry that even if the neck and body will fit back together nicely around the glue and splinters - which is a big if as it looks like the two have been apart for some time - it's probably going to be neither stable in the long term or positioned correctly. So yes, as you suggest, clean up the PVA, see how things stand before potentially doing further woodwork. And yes this will almost certainly need a new bridge although the original one is hanging around somewhere πŸ‘
  2. Thanks @JoeEvans πŸ‘ I'm reading on Talkbass that white vinegar can be used to remove the glue residue, any thoughts on the credibility of this and the potential to damage the wood?
  3. Still here, I suspect I'm going to end up keeping it at this rate
  4. Less a circle, and more an out-and-back to and from Clarky πŸ˜†
  5. Many thanks Pete, yes it's clearly suffered a poor repair, and the more I look at it the more I suspect the repair was an attempted modification, perhaps to reset the neck angle or height. I can't escape the feeling that what I'm going to call the wing - the protruding piece of wood near the cap - has been glued on to the cap where it has been cut away (the lines are too clean for it to have been a break) from the back of the bass. So, if this is the case reversing this modification as far as possible might be the best path. I'm going to do some fine measuring and drawings on Saturday to see how it might all work out. I suspect that whatever path I opt for there's going to need to be some screws or bolts involved, unless I'm very lucky. Chuck Traeger will of course be displeased, but all going well it'll be playable and stable But in the meantime I'd welcome the thoughts and advice of people who actually know what they're doing πŸ‘
  6. Which would you choose to play all other things permitting Jack?
  7. I've owned a 4/4 upright that I bought as a kit from Germany in 2015 and which as such is my longest standing item of gear. Until that point I'd played 3/4, but the moment I played the larger beats I knew I felt more at home. This is nothing to do with my stature, I'm 5'11'', with quite small hands. It's not really something I thought about until recently when I started gigging a 3/4 for al the wrong reasons and in doing missed the larger bass. Anyway, i was reading over on Talkbass the opinions of a regular poster and apparent expert on DB that 4/4 instruments are very much an anachronism, unnecessary in an age of advanced string technology, good quality amplification etc. He even suggested that owner of 4/4 instruments will not be able to sell them therefore their value is significantly below 3/4 instruments of equivalent quality. Seems that much like my affection for large and heavy 1980's Mesa amps my affection of 4/4 basses is out of keeping with the current zeitgeist? Not that I give a flying f**k really! But it did leave me wondering just how many folks her plays 4/4 and why?
  8. I am SO keen to try these on my 4/4 and have found several methods of doing so without compromising the strings so this is likely the final bump before next weekend is spent replacing my current ebony tailpiece with a longer and much lighter graphite version, adjusting tail-wire and bridge height and position, applying a whole lot of appropriate poweder to the nut and bridge, and then VERY carefully installing these beauties
  9. Folks An old double bass requiring some serious repair has come into my possession; in fact it would me more correct to say a collection of parts that all belonged to the same instrument have come into my possession. My aim is to rebuild the instrument to the degree that it's playable and structurally sound, as opposed to restoring it to its original state. These books, as well as the expertise of this forum, will be my guides It's a 4/4 with a 43.5 speaking length. It has a break at the scroll (which is only held on by the tuners), the endpin gets no traction with the body, there is no nut and the tailwire appears to be made out of a piece of old fence. However a good look around the inside of the body suggests no cracks, no loose bars and - perhaps miraculously- the sound-post is still in place and appears to be quite stable. The main challenge at present relates to the neck, which is not attached to the body, has a considerable amount of glue residue and splintering, and also a curious shape. Going on the obvious signs of previous alignment between neck and body the piece of wood that appear extended sits inside the back of the instrument, that is inside the body. Ultimately I'm not sure what purpose that V-shaped gap serves and whether is is something to retain or fill. Thanks in anticipation of any help you can offer? Here's some pics of the business end of the body And finally a photo of the neck almost in place
  10. This. Hard times don’t stifle creativity they drive it. Looking at the last 20 years ir so of economic stability and the music it produced……. Need I say more πŸ˜•
  11. Ha ha, β€˜some diversity’ of opinion is an understatement! In the grand scheme - wood, bridge, soundpost, strings - even if a factor I imagine it’s quite low down the list so I’m going to do some experimentation πŸ‘
  12. I messaged Bass Bros a week ago about a consignment sale and had no reply so I’ve opted to go somewhere else
  13. Thanks @JoeEvans, very creative. What does that do to the afterlength, do the cords effectively add to vibrating string afterlength, replace the tailpiece, or fall somewhere between the two?
  14. Hi @agedhorse, I'll check re the switches saying 'M-Pulse', although IIRC it does (I have only the one), but the pin numbers certainly differed between the unit/cable and the amp itself hence my inability ti use it πŸ‘
  15. Agree, and it made a right mess of the thread I started about male chickens born in the east end of London running around highly excited while prepping their shotguns for action and tilting their heads to one side
  16. Thanks @chrkelly, I've just looked at some of the thoughts on afterlength modification on TalkBass. Wow, that is the Double Bass rabbit hole to end all Double Bass rabbit holes, but it does at least appear that a bit of trial and error is probably not too risky πŸ‘
  17. That's a really interesting post @JoeEvans, I'm going to look into a few of the ideas in there, thanks πŸ‘
  18. Agree 100%, no need to replace the unit, noise is there but minor, so check all other options first. As @sandy_r says could be as simple as mechanical (positioning) or excessive gain. If you're anything like me, the main problem is that once you've heard something you don;t like it gets progressively louder
  19. That's a proper reply! Ears are good, but a waveforms is about as good as it gets πŸ‘
  20. Hi @sandy_r, looking at sopme of your posts (the Realist for example), I'm not sure how this forum manages without you! Many thanks, I'll check this out when I get the M-Pulse back later this week πŸ‘
  21. Thanks Chris, agreed re costly mistake. I pretty much built the bass about 10 years back so it's easy for me to install a longer tail wire, I also have a longer tail piece that might help further. Longer tailwire and tailpiece - and therefore shorter distance between tailpiece and bridge - will affect tone, what's your thinking on the likely difference? Thanks for your help. Chris
  22. Thanks folks, good advice. They're a Eudoxa 3/4 set. When I bought them I was under the impression that like many Pirastro strings, 3/4 strings generally served 4/4 instruments (and IIRC Caswell's didn't offer a 4/4 option). I bought them for a 3/4 instrument that on reflection soon afterwards was working very well with the Evahs I'd experimented with. I suspect the 4/4 will sing with them but not 100% convinced IO should risk it hence the thread
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