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Beedster

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Everything posted by Beedster

  1. PUP placement is surely more mathematically/acoustically determined to oprimise, harmonics etc while the DB-esque feel is, agreed, best achieved playing over the board, the further up the better, to get that looser and more languid attack
  2. PUPs close to the neck can sound muddy and indistinct and nothing at all like a DB. IME it’s as much about where along the string you play as where along the string you locate the PUP, possibly more so. There’s gotta be a sweet spot for the PUP anyway, then it’s all about technique and strings. Play like you’re playing DB on strings that are as close as possible in the way they react to DB strings?
  3. Correction, £420 plus £62 shipping plus around £125 import duty and tax. It's a very expensive neck
  4. Close to £500, that's more than Status used to charge, and as above, I don't like the headstock shape
  5. Also keep an eye open for basses with a graphite neck that you could remove and sell the loaded body on, usually Status (you probably wouldn't want to break up a Modulus and Moses necks are not highly rated). IIRC there was a Stingray up for sale a while back and the seller hadn't even mention the (perhaps obvious) fact that it was equipped with a Status neck
  6. People who have them tend to keep them so you need to be quick when they do come up for sale. I’ve bought two on BC this year, and sold one of them as it was too thin (Status fretted Jazz). A couple more have been up for sale also 👍
  7. Neither. I have two DBs, one with dots at 3,5,7,9,12 and one with no dots. I've learned that I'm a far better - more fluid and more musical - player when I'm not looking for pitch but listening for it. Some of this will depend on what style of music you play for sure, but I don't think it's necessarily a question of which of the two but whether you need either.
  8. If you've tried different PUPs and different strings, it sounds to me like you're expecting a active bass zing/sizzle from a passive bass?
  9. Thanks @3below, I was tempted to do the notch approach but as you say, most bound necks appear to be done the way I eventually decided on. I might try another with a notch though, I suspect it'll look better and be stronger 👍
  10. Luckily it was quite an easy fix, the process of identifying a rattle in one of these is potentially quite a long one 👍
  11. With WH I always heard the technique, Aretha on the other hand was all soul to my ear 👍
  12. Yep, so many great voices, Janis Joplin and Grace Slick are two of mine. Too much of the WH thing for me is technical where emotion is what does the job
  13. Well, i've been on here about 15 years, have bought and sold a few (understatement) basses, and was both interested in potentially buying yours and (I thought) trying to help you sell it when I first commented about the condition of the board which is critical with these basses (a quality refin on a worn maple board can be north of £300) If you list a bass well - that is right information and right price - it will usually sell quite quickly here. You've got a nice bass there but it's a niche instrument and therefore probably requires a little more patience with enquiries and perhaps some flexibility on price. As ever, you're the seller, how you do things is your prerogative, but if you want to sell it there are some traditions on this forum that will help. Sorry to hear about your stress, hope that resolves
  14. On thing that's clear from installing this nut is that the binding means that the distance between the two outside slots (E and G) are very close to their respective ends of the nut, which means that there must be a far greater chance of a brake simply because there is only around 50% of outside edges of the original nut remaining. I can't help thinking that it makes more sense for the binding to be cut away to allow a full size nut to be installed? I guess the other option would be a custom nut with slots slightly closer to the midline but that could really cramp up the available space, or possibly a nut that sits inside of the binding while also sitting on top of it at the edges (i.e., it would need essentially a small square cut out of the bottom at each end, which would be VERY fiddly to do)?
  15. Ouch 😆 I didn’t want to buy your bass, it happens, the fact a member asks question doesn’t commit them to buying or we’d all be in a lot of trouble! I was interested in the maple FL neck but wasn’t the right fit for the body in question, and I didn’t want the bass as it is. Also you came across as rude previously which put me off, as you have again. Good luck 🤞
  16. I’d strongly suggest starting a new FS thread as you can’t edit the price in the listing heading 👍
  17. So it didn’t sell at £450 so the price has been increased? Good luck mate 👍
  18. I guess with 204 screws there's no need for glue (BTW 204 is only the body, there's another 30 or so in the headstock). As I understand it it has pretty much conventional internal anatomy plus, as you've suggested, one or more modifications necessary to maintain structural integrity. Luckily I found the culprit pretty early (about 10 screws in), it was one of the small screws near the treble side foot of the bridge, now sorted 👍
  19. A few more close-ups as requested Bridge to back PUP distance Neck join Circuit & batery compartment Tuners
  20. Nut fixed, I might take the E down a tint bit and the A down even less, and round off the edges a little, but otherwise it plays very nicely, in cat slightly better than before 👍
  21. Needs a bit of cosmetic finishing around the edges but all done in terms of function. If anything action is improved over previous nut. Thanks for the advice guys 👍
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