Wayne Firefly

Did you have any issues with the string capstan being a lot shorter than the original machine head ?? I had one and could only get almost one wind / wrap of the string around it once fitted.

They do look nice fair do's !! Marketing is a powerful tool.......

Yes !!!! Johnny Brook, cheap chinese crap. I tend to change them every 4 or 5 gigs or so but I can get them for around £6 a set so, use them, bin them, end of !!!! I love Elites but at the rate I go through strings, its the cheap route at the moment.

Just a few thoughts...its probably just metaphysical BS but lets see what people think. Babicz full contact bridges. Do they improve tone / sustain / anything ? If you have the standard, pressed tin Fender style Precision / Jazz bridge, string pressure is forced down into it and string vibration feeds into the body through the height adjustment grub screws and through the very thin baseplate into the body. Now, after seeing the Youtube clip from Babicz, the contact points are the very small grub screws, thus compromising the vibration path through your bridge, regardless of brand, from the thinnest pressed tin vintage to the heaviest modern chunky version, that vibration has to travel through the grub screws (if the bridge is of that design of course). (Spector bridges may be an exception) Now would the thinner, vintage style baseplate allow a better transmission of vibration than a thicker, denser baseplate ? Surely there is less material for the vibration to travel through right ? Would brass sound brighter than aluminium as its denser or would steel sound brighter again as its denser than brass ? The only 'theory' I have of that is a bare concrete / brick / stone room with heavy hard walls and floor tends to sound 'brighter' and harder than a room with much less denser wall and floor coverings making a more natural 'deader' sound. Also if so, why can a super lightweight Tele sound vibrant and warm when a 12LB Les Paul can sound toppy and trebly if you use that reasoning ? Also add to the fact that the non speaking parts of a string are probably useless as far as anything other than actually being attached to the bass is concerned. I tend to use that much attack and growling overdrive / distortion with the band anyway that at flat out gig volumes with the drummer hammering away and two guitars blaring out with a singer, subtle nuances of bass tone are kind of lost if you get my drift... 'Yes, I can really tell you are using the ash bodied Stingray tonight as opposed to the alder one'.. Hmmmmm. So, to get back to the start, are Babicz bridges just snake oil or actually a real step forward as far as bass bridge design is concerned for the better ?? Does string vibration actually make any difference in real terms (I know acoustic basses are a totally different animal in this way, Im on about solid body electrics) Does string vibration actually matter at all (into the body) except for pickup function ?? Im confused !!!

Brilliant advice !! Thats exactly the kind of stuff I need to know !! Thank you, the next step is to get stuck in !!

Sounds like a nightmare. Two of the three albums we have dont have barcodes and to get them on any of the bigger sites, I need to sort them out for each album. Was just hoping I could sort two out quite cheaply to use for good that would register these albums for online selling of physical CDs. The label that picked us up for the 2nd album in 2004, sorted the barcode etc for that release. Downloads will come later when I get my head round this 1st step !!! Just wondering if anyone anywhere knew where barcodes could be bought outright instead of an annual fee or joining up with any PIA company.

Anyone know anything about getting barcodes to sell CDs on online sites like Amazon etc ? Just my band releases I want to put out. Any real, honest advice about going about it ?

Just bought a Jackson off Gary, nice fella, seems we have much in common hahaha !!!!! Everything went smoothly with zero fuss or drama, Top bloke I'd say !!

Some great advice and info there, cheers everybody !!! Also, I was told by the lad I had it off, its a replacement driver already in it so god knows what it is. I was just hoping there was something that could handle a bit of abuse out there !!

See, THIS is the kind of info I wanted !!! Didnt even think anything on Evilbay would be worth considering !! Off I go to check now !!!! Thank you kind sir !!!

I have a cheap £50 Peavey 1x15 cab that lives in our van, in a storage compound. Its a cheap cab left there incase the van gets broken into, set on fire or filled with water, left out in sub Arctic / Death Valley like conditions or whatever. So, Im putting 500 watts into it and the speaker flaps around so hard, its bounces against the steel front grille making the whole grille vibrate. It is quite funny to see. Not only that, apart from being woefully too quiet, it farts and cracks like a good'un when cranked to band volumes so its days are numbered. Im looking at replacement drivers, starting with Lean Business with their ranges of Celestions and Eminence. Im thinking 400 watts at least, say 8 ohms to have some degree of mercy. Will something like that be any good or should I go down the PA speaker route ?? Anyone got any ideas how well this would work ?? [url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/eminence-kappa-pro-15-8ohm-15-500watt-speaker-p-795.html"]http://www.lean-busi...aker-p-795.html[/url] To be honest Im not too bothered about nuances of tone, its more of a Bill Gould bludgeon approach without having any kind of attachment to it incase the worst happens. Practical reasons really. Its used with a GK MB500, a Sansamp Bass Driver and a Stingray so its a distorted metallic clank. The point is thats its relatively cheap, not assed about neo magnets either. Anyone got any thoughts on the matter ??

I got the GK MB500, with a decent cab its great !! Plenty loud enough for playing with a very loud punk band indeed !!!! The MB200 on the other hand was more of a whisper......