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Everything posted by hubrad
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Great stuff.. bet they looked good under stage lights! 👍
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Dunno re models, but I'd go for at least a 10" speaker then pretty much any level of amp section will sound decent for home. For my taste the 8" equipped combos only sound decent if you're spending decent money! Happy to be wrong on this. 👍
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Medleys. Want to get involved in another band's argument?
hubrad replied to uk_lefty's topic in General Discussion
That's superb, both comedically in that very skilled performance and so well arranged. It doesn't have to be Jive Bunny! Actually I found JB irritating the first time round; successful formula, mind. Edit.. jings, 35 years ago! 😳 -
My first dB was a 3/4 Zeller, excellent bit of kit which kept me going for the first few years til it became with upgrading. Enjoy the ride! 👍
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Danny Thompson has a brilliant retort to that one: "If I had a mouth as big as yours I'd have no problem!" Probably helps he used to do boxing.
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From your post it sounds like the push-pull switches from humbucker to single coil. You can wire it as you wish, eg just humbucker or just single coil, the you're correct it's that alone. The cable from the pickup is probably 4core plus screen, which gives the aforementioned options. No need to replace that cable. Make sure you get the wiring right .
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Dealing with feedback with an uncompromising drummer
hubrad replied to geoham's topic in General Discussion
Without reading all 5 pages of this (on break at a dance gig), has anyone mentioned a more powerful pa, ie one with more headroom? Back in the 80s we struggled with 100 or 200W pa heads, no headroom therefore feedback -
Thanks for the comment! I'd all but forgotten about that one: The next vid in search was actually by a chap who'd just got a 1950 a couple of days previous, so a really good follow-on for someone coming from electric onto dB: Don't suppose you're on here, Jason?
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My first dB was a Zeller, and in shop days I sold quite a few Stentor 1950. I've recently bought a Stentor Student 2 cheap as it needed loads of work Recommend any of those. Budget for your choice of pickup and strings. Longest term, remain open to the idea of bowing.. even physically it's remarkably different on a 'real' dB compared to an EUB.
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Ah, hence your distress! We feel for you, you're among friends. 👍
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Gonna have to rewrite all the instruction and teaching books ever, there! 😀
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Hmm.. interesting. I've only ever heard of ball of thumb as the bit at the base, as you say "Thenar Eminence" is a name I've just been introduced to so thanks for that. Wikipedia suggests that nowadays it can also be used as the pad at the tip end, not at all confusing! Anyway, on any instrument, if your fretting hand is on the neck in a club or cradling hold, so base of the thumb against the neck, try your maximum stretch 1st to 4th finger (we *are* all using your 4th finger, aren't we?). Now try it with the pad or tip of your thumb on the back of the neck.. gives me a good couple of inches more range, which especially on double bass means way better flexibility and far fewer position shifts.
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Nice idea, but if the ball of your thumb is in contact with the neck you'll be seriously limiting your finger spread, very noticeably so on double bass.
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2 piccies.. 1st position I have my thumb right between 1st and 2nd fingers. When I get to the heel of the neck it's behind the first then comes around to the side of the fingerboard. Working on thumb position. Not something I've specifically concentrated on, but by far the most comfortable positioning so I can get on with the playing. A good teacher may well point out the shortcomings of my thinking!
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I came here hoping for some wine chatter! 👍
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If it's been used for rockabilly/psychobilly the action could well have been set extra high for slappity stuff. I knew a guy 20 years back who had mad high action on both dB and guitar so he could really hammer the playing in gypsy jazz. Far higher than needed, imo, but it worked well for him which was the main thing. Quite probably not the original bridge if so, so less likely to be a neck joint problem. Basses do flex a little with atmospheric change,but not usually so much without completely coming apart. Unless you've got at least finish cracking around the neck joint I wouldn't be too concerned there. As above, one string at a time for now! 👍
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I deepened the slots in my bridge a few years back, as a temporary measure before getting the bridge off and onto the disc sander. Still not got round to that last bit as it works fine and perhaps gives the strings a little more protection. Technically wrong but plays and sounds great! I used a selection of those small engineers' files. If you zoom in you'll see a sliver of paper I used last summer to raise the G just a tad when everything just wandered ed a bit with outdoor gigs. I'd forgotten that; probably get it out again.😃
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I've put the link in now! 🙄
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This is what you've got. Don't remember if they did a 4/4, possibly so. https://www.jhs.co.uk/products/antoni-debut-double-bass-outfit-3-4-size If you have one that plays well it'll get you off the ground, but back in music shop days I went to JHS trade sales day and made a beeline for the double bass with a view to persuading my boss to stock it. The display model had a massive hump in the fingerboard around fret 2, making it unplayable. I said to the chap handling the section "if we were to order one, would it come properly set up?", and when he said it was set up I just walked away! Still, a very nice gift, and if you're getting better strings on it that'll improve matters. Make sure the soundpost is up! I wouldn't worry about the fingerboard unless it's really bugging you, it's only paint. If it gets you hooked (fingers crossed, double bass is brill!) and somebody offered you as much as a couple of hundred against your next one I'd go for it
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Nm