hubrad

I was browsing the StewMac catalogue recently, and the may be such a thing there. Just now I can't think where the catalogue is to be found. .

Just saw this crop up on Facebook.. GTR guitars in Huddersfield is closed now, but last couple of bits up for grabs include a Mag 410T with cover for £99! https://www.facebook.com/gtrguitars?fref=ts Nothing to do with me, Marcus' mobile is on the FB post.

It strikes me that, as each string only passes over one coil rather than two as with a humbucker, the P pickup gives a single coil tone but with hum cancelling. Widet coils so more P-90 style fat with bite. Just my tupporth, not necessarily the truth. .

Yup, slides and vibrato are there as an expression. Get the intonation right and, well, play bass. Steve Bailey said a great comment he got was 'Oh, I didn't realise it was a fretless'. Enjoy! The first bass I picked up was a defretted, and I fell in love. :-)

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1434782559' post='2802729'] I've done it. It's really not too difficult, just take your time and go slowly with it. Put tape in between the frets so if you do get tear out it can easily be replaced. I did it on a maple fretboard and used some rosewood veneer to put in the gaps. What are you planning to fill them with? Oh and be prepared to do a lot of sanding. [/quote] +1 to this. Just take it steady. [quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1434784602' post='2802740'] The thing that scares me about it is reports that if you're not careful, some of the fingerboard may come off with the frets. [/quote] Take it steady. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1434784691' post='2802741'] There are proper pincers for lifting frets so I'd get those. Also, from what I've seen, briefly heating the frets with something like a soldering iron, is the way to go before you pull them; it softens the glue (which these days seems to be a liquid cyanoacrylate - you'd use that if gluing in wood veneers in the slots left behind). [/quote] You can make the pincers yourself by filing/grinding flat the nose of some standard end cutters or small pincers. The first time I did a defret, I went in at speed with a chisel.. not recommended! Unless they've been problematic and repaired, the frets shouldn't be glued in to start with. Take it steady and they will wobble out in stages. Firstly pincer under the fret at one end, middle, other end so it just lifts a whisker. Next, grab with the pincers and just give a gentle wobble, end, middle, end. Repeat until it lifts GENTLY out, and you'll lose little or no wood from the fingerboard. Take it steady. [quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1434788985' post='2802791'] It's pretty straightforward, I've done a couple. It's all about the prep. ... Wood glue and sawdust makes a paste the same colour as the fingerboard wood if there are any chips etc. [/quote] +1 for prep, also don't rush it. Take it steady. I'd use epoxy (Araldite-a-like) as it's verry durable, considering the duty it will be expected to perform. On that first one I used car filler - it was crap!

I have a BTB600 with the Bartolini licenced pups.. nice pickups as they go, but while performing various experiments on this bass I had a set of EMG J in there (the only thing I had which would fit in that size pocket) and that was brilliant! May even go down the road of USA Barts or I think Aguilar do some that would fit. If you get the SR600, a pickup upgrade would be both easy and productive.

Right, that's me listening to Jethro Tull for today! :-)

Big +1 to pretty much everything above. John Glascock had a brilliant feel in his basslines, and even revisiting such era Tull albums 30+ years after first listening to them I'm finding new bits to hear today. (Actually that's true of alot of things I got into in teenage years!) Definitely one of my bass influences before I even considered playing bass. Wasn't he something of a party animal, to boot?

'Sfunny.. the original question was 'should I get a new bass?'.. not one reply suggesting to just wait for the container to land!

Probably worth having a good read here: http://looperpedalreviews.com/ as each pedal has its particular strengths and features. It might help you decide just what you want from such a thing. I bought one at random via the Bay, and actually use it more for some of its non-looping features!

... or do we just need to seek out Mk.6 Trace gear? ;-)

How do any of you folks find the TC heads for volume? I got a BC212 recently, and found it a bit on the quiet side when run at the same time as a couple of other 8 Ohm cabs I have. I noticed that TC say you can run THREE of their 8R cabs with their bass heads, but only two of anyone elses. You can't fool with electronics that much, so I did a DC resistance measurement, which came out noticeably higher on the BC212 than on any other cab I have; suggests to me that they're actually more like a 12R cab, hence the ability to run 3 at once. Just wondering how the heads have performed for any of you in real life rather than on paper.. the actual number of Watts is something of a technicality when it comes to sound.

+1 for networking.. shamelessly as you like - the worst answer is 'sling yer 'ook' or words to that effect! MU still publish a directory; I think they still do a print version (turns up seemingly at random every few years) but online will be the most up to date. Pretty much all of my work has come through the first, but no regrets at having joined MU yonks back.. if nothing else I've actually been able to insure my car including business use as a musician!

[quote name='The Admiral' timestamp='1433141592' post='2788101'] ... with the whif of the Nigerian Prince .. [/quote] Ah, takes me back to the good old days of empire! Back OT, I was expecting a demand for money or bank details in there, too. Prob to come later.

One strap per bass, and a decent strap at that if it's a gigging bass. If I don't do it that way, I just know I'll be at a gig with one bass and no strap!

Yup, Vol/Pan for me.. easy to knock the volume down in one go, whether for effect or off at the end of a number.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1432308683' post='2780332'] Any good for metal!? [/quote] The cabs in regular use, or the ICE mod?

I never had a problem, as such, with the lifting, but then I was mad into rock climbing so I suppose I was pretty fit at the time. TWO of the Peaveys, with a Trace preamp into a Peavey CS1000 power amp.. loud and very clean 'cos of the headroom, but that was a proper carful of gear! Thinking of this has reminded me that I wired a couple of speaker sockets into the boot of the car - Escort then Fiesta so I had to have the back seats down - then I could plug the bog-standard cassette player through the pair of 410Ts.. some thought it a little extreme! :-D

I used to have a couple of Peavey 410T cabs about 20-25 years ago.. belting kit, loud as you like and clear too! Not a one hand lift, mind..

Clip-on or lace-up?

[quote name='devil_bassman' timestamp='1430822440' post='2764824'] That's what I'm thinking, I'm running an orange terror bass 500, it's 500 watts does that mean the speakers I get have to be 500 watts or above? Sorry for being thick, I'm only a bassist after all Haha [/quote] As the TB500 has switchable output impedance, I'd guess it's capable of putting out the full 500W RMS (so can spike higher than that) into an 8Ohm cab, which is what you have with 2 x 16Ohm speakers, when played flat out. Are you likely to really push your amp? 2 speakers in parallel, each capable of taking 200W, gives you 400W handling. Thus it depends on you not to hit the cab TOO hard as it stands. If you tend to really push it (you must be in a mad loud band!) you'd probably be better with 300 or 400W speakers x 2 for a bit of leeway. If you go down that road, they tend to get heavier and more expensive!

Another option is to have the existing ones reconed.. not many of these guys around these days, but in the North there's RMJ.. http://www.recones.com/ Roy has done a couple of my 'Custom made by Eminence for xxx' speakers, brilliant job!