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[quote name='Kees_SoS' timestamp='1375127769' post='2157086'] I actually remember Martin mentioning you a while ago. Didn't you also have a fretless built with some of the same flamed ash? [/quote] Yes, that's right! I'll find a photo once I am on a regular computer.

Ooh, this looks like it could be a seriously gorgeous bass in the making!

[quote name='philparker' timestamp='1374356151' post='2148086'] Make room! Move some furniture - think of it as a show piece of furniture; sell something; ditch something; buy a smaller settee, but most importantly of all - buy a DB!!! [/quote] again +1.. this stands to be one of those 'most quoted' posts! [quote name='zero9' timestamp='1374407317' post='2148366'] While you may not regret getting a double bass, there doesn't seem to be an immediate need. Just keep using the EUB for now, from what you say, they seem happy with that. I'm sure the desire to get one will take over soon [/quote] I'd say if you're planning to play with acoustic violins only the 'real thing' will do tonally. EUB and an acoustic DB are quite a different experience. Each has it's place, just the DB has a bigger one!

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1373712704' post='2140830'] Spend it entirely in BCs for sale section, on stuff people are selling to buy other things in the for sale section, and get some movement on there. [/quote] BCQE?

[quote name='tedmanzie' timestamp='1373712708' post='2140831'] I've got a similar job - after making the dinner for my girlfriend I can have a few drinks, but picking up the bass is strictly forbidden. [/quote] My double bass lives in the kitchen.. no way of enforcing a blanket ban there.

Possibly some tie-in with one of the countries where alcohol just doesn't happen anyway?

What BidRedX said, but also the bottom of the slot is just as important - unevenness or a bit of muck in there causes just as many problems. Could be worth a visit to an acoustic luthier experienced in undersaddles.

Is that 'no drink in work hours' or 'no drink on board'? First one sounds perfectly reasonable; second one, draconian but possibly there's been some kind of trouble before. Might be worth asking the prospective employer to clarify, but as said above - do you want the work?

That does make sense, MBA. I had a MM Silhouette 6string a few years ago.. Of all the electric guitars I have ever owned that was the one that both needed, and responded to, truss rod tweaking. Minor tweaks but every time I picked it up. Could be a MM thing.. Sounded great though!;-)

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1370617803' post='2103566'] Welcome and kudos for joining our community, it's always good to have recognised names contributing [/quote] My sentiments exactly. Beware - BC is mightily addictive!

[quote name='Count Bassy' timestamp='1367841962' post='2070059'] Generally I find the Eagles dull and wishy washy, with a few notable exceptions, one of which is "Get Over It". Unfortunately I've just joined a band that includes "Hotel California" and "Peaceful easy Feeling" in the set list. The first I can just about tolerate (better to play than to listen to), but the second is just dreary. [/quote] Check out the non-hits..there are some really great songs that pretty much never get radio play.

[quote name='fatgoogle' timestamp='1367682977' post='2068384'] ... And the fact bass's are so damn expensive. [/quote] Yup, it seems that for a noticeable step up from a couple of grand you need to at least have the budget to go shopping with about 10K in your pocket!

The general consensus seems to be to aim for a bow costing about 1/3 to 1/2 the instrument to get the best out of both. Of course, as part of a longer-term plan, you can get a really good bow and upgrade the instrument later or vice-versa. +1 for Pernambuco still having the edge, but I have both Pernambuco and Metropolitan in German pattern and they're of similar quality - both really nice at least for my playing/bass/strings/choice of music etc etc.. I carry the Metro more often on gigs as carbon fibre has the rep of being far harder to damage.

[quote name='tredders' timestamp='1367573135' post='2067018'] Cheers for info... The model number (hand written on the back panel) is A250, so I'm guessing that designates that it's the 250 watt output model? Seems incredibly loud, if it's "only" 250 watts, though... Great sounding amp, and the 2 pre-defined pre-shapes are actually useable. Going to get it checked out by Peter Allen, and will then decide whether to keep this one or my OTB 500.... either one might end up for sale. [/quote] I've got the 250W head.. mine says AH250SMX on the back, bought new in early 90s. The best amp I've ever had, and while I've been tempted to change I've really had no need to do so. My vote: KEEP!

[quote name='philwood' timestamp='1367336955' post='2064403'] Thanks for all of these posts Gents, I recently aquired it so not sure what strings are on it, they feel resonably new but they could be crap. I've ordered a new set of strings to see if that helps! [/quote] This first.. if you're unsure of the strings, or if they are getting old, they may be stretching unevenly. This can lead to all sorts of weirdnesses.

I was vaguely wondering how this was going, partly cos I WANT SOME!

WHen I got the Overwater Jazz 5 second hand it had a John East pre. A fantastic amount of control available, just too much for my purposes so I sold the pre on and installed a Vol,Blend,Bass,Treble setup with the Vol push-pull to switch the active in and out. I use mostly active setups (big fan of EMG pickups, too!) but tend to get my basic sound at the amp then tweak it at the bass if a pre is there. How sit-on-the-fence is that for y'all?

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1366293511' post='2050632'] In addition to the very valid opinions and good advice already expressed , I would add that active basses and their usefulness also depends on the quality of the basic sound of the bass and the quality of the preamp . Some active basses that sound rubbish would sound rubbish if they were passive too because they don't have a good basic sound to begin with and a preamp ( especially a so-so sounding one ) won't change that fundamental shortcoming . Your Precision Bass has got a good basic tone , and that is all you really need . Conversely , a bass that doesn't have that good basic sound to start off with won't really be improved much by a preamp . It might be that making the Ibanez passive and changing the pickups will be throwing good money after bad and won't yield the satisfying sound you crave . The problem might not be that the bass doesn't sound good because it's active so much as that it doesn't sound that good full stop . If someone gave you a Wal Custom bass to take to your rehearsal you wouldn't have much problem finding a good sound with the active electronics , but that is because they are great sounding basses to begin with and then have a superbly designed preamp added to enhance and exploit that basic sound . Experiment with the Ibanez by all means and get more familiar with the controls ect. but I would be reticent to spend more money on the bass in an attempt to improve it when the chance of getting a good long - term outcome are not very good at all , and you would probably be decreasing the resale value of the bass in the process , thus losing money on both fronts . [/quote] I like this post!

Something else to bear in mind is that American made gear will be imperial sizes, Mexican probably the same but possibly metric on some parts; most of the rest of the world uses metric sizes. Longer term it's worth carrying both, and as KiOgon said concentrate on the smaller ones. Prob up to about 6mm or 1/4" are the majority of what you'll ever find on instruments.

I've got Realists on both DB and mandolin (yes, I know!); the DB one has been on this bass and my first one for a total of 12 years with no problem, the mandolin has been running for about 6 years. The only problem I had with the mando was when I ripped the pickup at the end where the wire leaves the flat bit, so I went in and bridged the tear with wire and solder. On the DB I do use a preamp, that definitely helps; unbuffered it's a little weak, but it's a piezo element so no surprise there. I've had loads of compliments on the DB plugged-in tone! By the mechanics of it, you really do need a good physical connection between the bridge and body.

[quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1365752027' post='2043780'] As creatures of habit and little constant thought, why does it come more natural to plug into the amp end first? Also, if you practice with an an active bass, leaving everything plugged in when you finish, but just cracking the bass end out to save the battery, next time it's somehow more natural to turn the amp on first. Can't think why, but hence 'Silent' plugs are on most of the leads I make, great product. I found that the sleeve gets stuck at the slightest bend or angle in the jack. I 'straighened' a stuck one and it's been fine since but don't tread on them or allow it to fall. I have 4 or 5 of these, one lost it's ability to isolate but all are in regular use. To be honest they still allow the occasional 'Clonk'. One thing that has worried me, only in thought, not fact, is that is puts another mechanical contact in the signal chain, potentially compromising the signal quality. [/quote] Why not just make it the norm to unplug from the amp first/plug in last? When I started playing there were none of these thing around, and owners of amps and PA systems did NOT spare the rod if you created a loud bang through their gear!