Paulhauser

40 minutes ago, julfam said:

Agree 🥰 Got mine a few weeks ago, I am like a kid (ok technically, my 4th... made the mistake of selling the first 2, but definitely keeping mine now). I am a hardcore fan

Very nice! Where did you get this? One of the best finish a Spector can have.....

9 minutes ago, cetera said:

1. Purple quilted maple US Spector NS2 with abalone crowns

2. Purple quilted maple US Spector NS2X (Spectorbird) with abalone crowns

3. Inferno red US Spector NS2 with abalone crowns (like the one in the JJ pic in the post above)

Hmmm.... I'm sensing a theme here....

I think it's time for you to finally get some Spectors....that's the theme I sense 😄

I'm very much happy with what I have so these 3 are not really a GAS list, more like basses that I keep getting back at. 

1. Spector Euro 4 LE 1979. I already have the 1977 limited edition and its one of the best Spectors I own (US models included) The quality is unreal and I'm sure it is the case with this 1979, too. 

2. Though it seems like marmite but I happen to love the MusicMan Bongo's design. This one has great specs and a stellar finish.

3. I have always been a fan of Japaneese workmanship and quality and i'm sure this Momose has it all plus a stunning look. Really don't needanother jazz but this really is a masterpiece. 

2 hours ago, NickD said:

I look at natural finish Spector 5s with lust, but probably won't ever get around to one, partly because most seem to have gold hardware, and partly because they look as if neck dive would be an issue.

I'm super sensitive to neck dive but none of my Spector Euro5's have any. So don't let that put you off. 

14 hours ago, Al Krow said:

Thinking this through, I'm not sure you would ever use a coil tap with a P configured pup so if I'm looking for a P/J config then a good combo would be neck 40P5 plus 40TWX for the bridge pup?

So a push/pull pot for the single / double coil bridge pup; bass and treble pots plus simple volume pot for the P.

I'm not sure I get your point as P's are not splitable. The TW is basically two J's parallel to each other and if you use the coil tap only one of them is working.  
I have a 40P5 /40J in one of my Spectors and that nails the classic Spector PJ sound. If you keep the TW at the bridge and split it you will get close to that. The only problem can be matching the volumes as the P has a strong signal and the coil tapped TW is already lower in volume so might be tricky. (on my 40P5/40J the J is much closer to the strings to get the same volume output)

Update: I have replaced the EMG 45DCs with EMG 45TWX's. While I liked the DCs I think the TWX has a slightly rounder sound that works well with the ebony board and ash/maple setup. The sound became less brittle in the upper registers, the low end slightly less the strong mids remained and became even more pronounced. Also one of my observations is that the Aguilar OBP seems to work better or more effective with this pickup, especially the lows. As I use the TWX's in my other Spectors I pretty much knew what the swap would do but still I'm happy how this turned out. 

16 hours ago, Al Krow said:

 

If that's correct my double J/humbucker configured EMG 40TW 5er has just got itself further embedded in my herd! I guess the solution is to get hold of a decent used Spector EuroLX and sub in a EMG 40P5  https://www.emg-pickupsonline.co.uk/emg-40p5/ for the neck pup.

11 hours ago, Billy Apple said:

I had DC's ordered with my Forte 5. When it came it had TW's, which on the coil-tap, split whatever sounded weedy. Sent it back and had the DC's put in... Bostin'!

I have a couple of Euro/US 5 string Spectors either with the DC or the TW (and have one with 40 housing P/J)

I like the X series DC in my main recording bass, crisp, wide and very powerful and works well with the HAZ preamp.

I happen to like my other one with the two TWX in it. In my experience the TWX is a big step from the TW as the volume drop is lot less when using the coil tap and the wholes sound is wider and more alive. So I would not worry much if the new models only come with the DC, replacing them with the TWX is not a big deal, it is fairly easy to drop in, hook up with the tonepump, the only thing to be aware of that the push-pull pots need wider holes so better take it to a luthier / skilled tech with appropriate tools. 

3 hours ago, Dov65 said:

Truthfully m8 i don't know why its LTD maybe some Spector guru could tell but here's original add

My Spector Euro is also from bassdirect and they told me the body is alder/maple but turned out it's full maple. (removed the battery compartment inside where the wood is unshielded / unpainted and it was clear upon inspection that the wing is one piece, not three) You might want to check out as this could be potentionally important info for some people - it was certainly so for me as part of the Spector heritage is the maple wings. I quite like the chrome hardware and piano black color, one day I will get a 35" version to match my white 435. 

Again, you have a beautiful and great sounding bass for sale and whoever ends up getting this will surely be satisfied.

Very nice! 

Is it the chrome hardware that makes this a limited edition?

Also it might have full maple for the wings as they used maple wings solid black and white colored Euros lately.

(I have a quite recent white Euro 4 and although it was advertised as a maple/walnut/alder in reality it does have maple wings. )

Anyway, good luck with the sale!

While I don't play, gig or record much fretless bass but those occasions do come up so I tend to keep one in my arsenal as when I need / have to / want to use it is very handy to have one which is suitable and set up for my preferences. How much you would use it is up to you - you might end up liking it a lot and trying to play everything on it for months in the end - I did it and was a lot of fun and great learning. Or you won't use it much. 

Mine is a lined 5 string fretless and depending on how much and how often I use it I can get around it pretty easily, sometimes I look at my fretting hand for positioning exactly where it should be, sometimes its muscle memory. 

If you can afford I think it is good to have one and the Sire is certainly not a huge invesment but a great value ( so I heard)

Alternatively you can order online, use the return period for deciding what you think of all the above so you have a safety net. 

Have fun!

15 hours ago, Eldon Tyrell said:

 I think most solid colour (white and black) Euro's have, or at least, had solid maple wings. The other LXs have a slice of walnut in the middle.

This is true, but info on this is confusing. I think it is in the last few years that solid black and white Euro 4/5s have maple wings as it was communicated on the official spector site. But dealers seem to be confused as  I have a quite recent white Euro435 and it has full maple wings but was advertised as having the sandwich body. 

(If one is wondering how do I know it I removed the separate battery compartment which is not shielded nor painted so it is visibly one piece vs the maple/walnut/alder)

2 hours ago, Misdee said:

I suppose whether it is worth the extra money depends on what premium you place on having the real thing.

If you just want a tool to use the Euro will probably do a very satisfactory job for you. If, however, you  have always wanted to own and play a nice example of the iconic American bass guitar brand that is Spector then only the USA- made bass will do.  And there is nothing wrong with that point of view, however irrational it may seem to some, . I love Spector basses , wish I owned one,  but I wouldn't want a Euro version , no matter how good they are. 

I have to agree except for the 'real thing' part.  I hold Euros in very high regard, I have 4 Spectors from the Czach factory and they are some of the best basses I have ever had. This is why I have them and use them almost daily along with my US made ones. They are from different eras, different models and while I see your point that they are not made in Woodstock for me they are as real Spectors as one can get. 

However, I am glad that I own 2 of the only 450-ish pcs of NS-5XL's that were produced in the Woodstock era by Stuart Spector. Also own a Forte/NS-6XL pre-Korg. Might be irrational for some but not for me, there is more to it than just the sound or the price. Call it the result of clever marketing or hero worshipping or such but after many years of longing I was able to get these instruments and I am super happy with them. For me any of them worth the extra money I have spent on them over a Euro model. For full disclosure I have bought them used but the same goes my Euros, too 🙂

36 minutes ago, Lunatique said:

The SDGR line is sort of their low to middle-range line, so I guess it's fine that it doesn't look too high-end with that logo. 

Not really, my SR5006 is one of their most expensive bass models and still has the same logo...albeit in gold 😄

Cracking bass you got  btw, I own 2 Ibby SR sixers, the aforementioned SR5006 and a 3006 and used to own a 506 in two versions and I have to say that for me they are some of the best designed 6 string basses, you have the range but the bass still feels sleek and compact. I also happen to like the Barts though the electronics in the 5006 is subpar, but anyways I use it in passive so no big deal. 

Very nice collection but is surely misses a US or Euro Spector 4 string with PJ pickups 😄 

Btw lovely fingerboard on that fretless SR

It is your bass and you are free to do whatever you want with it. There are only two considerations I think, one is that if the mod doesn't give you what you hope for it is impossible to go back to original and the second is the mod will negatively effect the resale value (but then again you might never want to sell it for the reasons you described)

3 minutes ago, 4000 said:

Spectors really don’t work for me at all, which is one of the reasons I didn’t include them.😉

We can't be all the same 🙂

Spectors (Euro and US) are my main instruments for more than a decade, they are the perfect combination of sound and ergonomics for me. 

I do have a Stingray 5 which I like a lot. The Thumb 5NT was a major disappointment for me both ergonomically and sonically. But some of the best fretless sounds I've ever heard came from Thumb's plus I quite like the sound of the NT6 Thumbs (must be the pickups and positions of them) so it may have been that particular instrument. 

(almost) always take, never needed.

I'm not a professional player in the sense that it is not my main source of income but I act like one 🙂 So I'm always prepared and would not let any problem with my gear affect the show or even get noticed.

I play Spector Euros live for many years and never had any technical problems with them, neither did I break a string. 
But I always carry a backup bass (another Euro) for the main gig I have which has samplers, clicks and rear screen projecting all set up for the show and there is no way I'd stop that for changing a string or such. I use wireless but always have a cable at hand (happened once or twice that the wireless went off or the receiver was kicked out of stage 🙂 )

Since I go direct most of the time I don't carry amps or cabs so bringing two basses in a double gigbag is not an issue. 

I have no experience with Wals, but owned a '91 NT Thumb5 and own a SR5. 

The Thumb was thin sounding and nasal, quite far from what I'd call aggressive. The SR5 can be much more of that. So my vote goes for that out of the 3 listed.

Other thank that, Spector..... 🙂

53 minutes ago, Angel said:

I can get my head around how that would work as the EMG have special pots, so how would you connect to the J Retro?

Angel, I'm in no way an expert, I'm just saying that this constellation is working for me technically.

The bass in question is a Spector Euro5 and I bought it used with the JE preamp already in there and the EMG 40DC's, too. I changed these to  EMG 40J and 40P (basically PJ's in soapbar housing) but since these pickups have the quick connect pins it was a 5 min job. 
BTW the preamp is not a J retro it is a deluxe with mid controls and active passive switch etc. but the point is that it works with EMG pickups.

2 hours ago, Angel said:

I was hoping to avoid active pickups as I'm using the J retro.

John East preamps work very well with active pickups, I have one paired with 5 string EMG PJ's.

6 hours ago, cetera said:

I can hear a clear difference between my US made NS2 basses, my Far East-produced NS2A's and my Euro/Euro LX basses.

Can't comment on the Korean ones but I have a couple of Euros and a few US NS-5's/6's and I do hear and feel the difference between them. 

My buckeye burl NS-5XL is simple the best bass I have ever had and I use that exclusively for recording since I got it. (Never take that out for gigs though)

With that said the newer Euros like my Euro 435 come really close to the US ones. But to be fair this is a solid white one with maple wings so no fancy wood to make a big visual difference. 

2 hours ago, franzbassist said:

It's amazing how "straight" it sounds in isolation - doesn't swing at all.

 

That was my observation, too. 
Very well played, I especially like how the pick with the ghost notes gives an extra drive to the lines. 

31 minutes ago, Gunsfreddy2003 said:

It has a Bartolini in it - I think they ship with EMG HZ now?

 

I think it’s the other way around, for a long time since the beginning it had the HZ. Anyway I cannot comment on the Bart as I haven’t played it.

 I personally would either start with changing the preamp without changing the pu or buy an EBS Microbass as it can handle two instruments with separate eqing so you can dial in both of your instruments and leave them plugged in throughout the show.

edit:the new one has built in tuner and compressor too and is a great all around preamP / DI. I use mine for most than a decade now (2nd generation)

On 14/04/2020 at 22:32, Gunsfreddy2003 said:

Evening all,

I have a SpectorCore 5 string fretless and thinking of upgrading the pickups and electrics to something more punchy.

Really liking the look of the Aguilar DCB pickups or the OBP 3 preamp as a possible solution.

will this work?

What is the pickup in your bass? There are different versions of this model depending the vintage.

59 minutes ago, moley6knipe said:

Good calls there. The 30th is Soooooo pretty it’s silly. And as soon as funds permit I *will* own an HH Special 5. Really want natural / maple but they’re a thing of the past (unless one comes up s/hand I guess - not seen any Special 5s yet).

Would have to be maple board and a finish that lets me see the grain - which limits choices now they’re not using ash for the bodies.

But let’s be right - most ‘Rays of most flavours, brands, number of strings and pickups are lovely. Great basses. 

Thank! As for a natural SR Special hoe about this?