Paulhauser

Very nice collection but is surely misses a US or Euro Spector 4 string with PJ pickups 😄 Btw lovely fingerboard on that fretless SR

It is your bass and you are free to do whatever you want with it. There are only two considerations I think, one is that if the mod doesn't give you what you hope for it is impossible to go back to original and the second is the mod will negatively effect the resale value (but then again you might never want to sell it for the reasons you described)

We can't be all the same 🙂 Spectors (Euro and US) are my main instruments for more than a decade, they are the perfect combination of sound and ergonomics for me. I do have a Stingray 5 which I like a lot. The Thumb 5NT was a major disappointment for me both ergonomically and sonically. But some of the best fretless sounds I've ever heard came from Thumb's plus I quite like the sound of the NT6 Thumbs (must be the pickups and positions of them) so it may have been that particular instrument.

(almost) always take, never needed. I'm not a professional player in the sense that it is not my main source of income but I act like one 🙂 So I'm always prepared and would not let any problem with my gear affect the show or even get noticed. I play Spector Euros live for many years and never had any technical problems with them, neither did I break a string. But I always carry a backup bass (another Euro) for the main gig I have which has samplers, clicks and rear screen projecting all set up for the show and there is no way I'd stop that for changing a string or such. I use wireless but always have a cable at hand (happened once or twice that the wireless went off or the receiver was kicked out of stage 🙂 ) Since I go direct most of the time I don't carry amps or cabs so bringing two basses in a double gigbag is not an issue.

I have no experience with Wals, but owned a '91 NT Thumb5 and own a SR5. The Thumb was thin sounding and nasal, quite far from what I'd call aggressive. The SR5 can be much more of that. So my vote goes for that out of the 3 listed. Other thank that, Spector..... 🙂

Angel, I'm in no way an expert, I'm just saying that this constellation is working for me technically. The bass in question is a Spector Euro5 and I bought it used with the JE preamp already in there and the EMG 40DC's, too. I changed these to EMG 40J and 40P (basically PJ's in soapbar housing) but since these pickups have the quick connect pins it was a 5 min job. BTW the preamp is not a J retro it is a deluxe with mid controls and active passive switch etc. but the point is that it works with EMG pickups.

John East preamps work very well with active pickups, I have one paired with 5 string EMG PJ's.

Can't comment on the Korean ones but I have a couple of Euros and a few US NS-5's/6's and I do hear and feel the difference between them. My buckeye burl NS-5XL is simple the best bass I have ever had and I use that exclusively for recording since I got it. (Never take that out for gigs though) With that said the newer Euros like my Euro 435 come really close to the US ones. But to be fair this is a solid white one with maple wings so no fancy wood to make a big visual difference.

That was my observation, too. Very well played, I especially like how the pick with the ghost notes gives an extra drive to the lines.

I think it’s the other way around, for a long time since the beginning it had the HZ. Anyway I cannot comment on the Bart as I haven’t played it. I personally would either start with changing the preamp without changing the pu or buy an EBS Microbass as it can handle two instruments with separate eqing so you can dial in both of your instruments and leave them plugged in throughout the show. edit:the new one has built in tuner and compressor too and is a great all around preamP / DI. I use mine for most than a decade now (2nd generation)

What is the pickup in your bass? There are different versions of this model depending the vintage.

Thank! As for a natural SR Special hoe about this?

As I already have a Stingray 5 I'd either source a SR5 30th anniversary or a new Special SR5 HH (would probalby change the pg to pearl white) Now that I think of it I might just do it as well 🙂

@thisisswanbon a longer strap might help. I am actually at the opposite point: I really like that my Spector stays put in the same steep angled position that is very similar to the classic sit down playing style where the bass is between the legs- this is how I practice so it makes a smooth transition. See my profile pic....

No. I like and respect Cort's instruments for what they are - having owned a couple in the past - but for me they never quite made the right package in any of their instruments.

No worries, glad to help a fellow Spector player. If you have the time please post some pics. These new LT's are killer and haven't seen a red one IIRC.

@ozzy138 worry you not, it is the Darkglass tone capsule but not in the ""box" housing. https://www.darkglass.com/creations/tone-capsule/ Congrats on your Spector, great choice!

Had to watch the video posted above to understand what you meant about using Dunlops with normal straps as the two basses I have Dunlops on have recessed "pins" , they are flush so there is nothing to attach a normal strap to. Never knew that they are offering pins, too. I'm using Schallers for most of my basses for the last 15 years, gig regularly and never had any Schallers unscrewing themselves. But I have to note that I tighten the strap-part especially strongly and check the pin screws every string change (when I normally oil the board and check up the bass in general)

Of the 11 basses I own 10 have dark fingerboards (2 ebony, 2 pau ferro, 2 wengé, 4 rosewood) I was never partial to certain fingerboards and I think the numbers above come from the fact that those basses I wanted / liked / kept in the end had mosty dark wooden boards as part of the specs. The one exception is my Atelier Z custom M265. There is just something for me in a '70 kind of jazz bass look...maple with white bindigs and block inlays.

Sorry for being a bit off topic here but all the tapered core strings I have used had the tapered section as a part of the speaking lenght of the string. Most of the tapered B strings I have used had only the core wire touching the bridge saddle and it tapers to full width after that point - in the speaking lenght of the string, not to the other way.

These are great beasts, I used to have 3 of them, I liked the one with the TW pickups the most. (The only reason I don't own one is that I have a US Spector 6) Congratulations for having it and I hope it will be a long time partner for you. I honestly think they are capable of doing anything a sixer should with strong and articulte lows to clear highs and all this coupled with a very ergonomic design. As @cetera said the preamp needs some time to get used to but once the trimpot is fixed and the bass / trebles settings are understood it is a really useful preamp. Have fun with it and go, gig it 🙂

😄 English is not my first language and if you add some typos then the result can be...hilarious 😄

One of the best deals around, fortunately I'm not on the market for a Euro 4LX - and the pickup only option is not an option for me anyways but you seem to get that sorted 🙂

Congratulations and welcome to the Spector family!

Three days? That's quite a long time, congrats 🙂 I know better and don't plan such things....... 😄