Paulhauser

I sold my ABZ5 about two years ago and it took some time until someone bought it. I guess market changes all the time....supply and demand

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1490763119' post='3267703'] These are all 24 fret i think ? [/quote] Ehh, forgot about that, you are right....

Ibanez Soundgears tick all boxes except for the 35". Look for earlier Prestige models that were produced in Japan or Korea. SR1006, 1305, 3005, 5005 comes to my mind. Great sounding basses with nice ergonomics. Also Spector Euro5' should be considered, 17,5mm spacing , 35" and modern, cutting through sound. Ergonomics are great, too, but you should try one before buying.

You should check FretFX. Unlike other slutions this does not require mods to the instrument as it is a string of LED markers stuck to the side of the fingerboard. You can order for different scale lenghts ad different colors. I have not yet any experience but want to order one of these as this is a lot less hassle than modifying the instrument. https://fretfx.com/

[quote name='radiophonic' timestamp='1489695939' post='3259088'] The DW is more of a jazz profile though isn't it? 1.5" nut? I'm happy with 1 5/8 ish but just want it a bit shallower at the nut. What are the Ian Hill ones like? I love the sound btw. Not considered a Sterling. Call me vain but the Spectors are very pretty. [/quote] The Ian Hill models have a 'regular' nut, but the neck is thinner back to front on those. Might be the perfect solution for you. And yes, Spectors ARE pretty :-)

Here is one pic with my Spectors then :-) [attachment=240724:17269383_1469388653093553_2000809018_o.jpg]

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1489500998' post='3257455'] I think the blue anniversary model has Barts in it? [/quote] Great bass you have there! I think the blue is the same as the red, but there were a few of the blue that had Barts in it and ebony fingerboard.

The Rebop is 500[font=Helvetica-Bold, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][b]£ [/b][/font]cheaper compared to the 40th Anni models, which is quite a bit money. Definitely give both of them a try so you can see whether the ergonomics fit to your requirements. Sorry to hear your experiences, maybe if was a bad day...

Those anniversary models are great! Full maple body wings and some custom options (black strip on the neck, inlay) make these more special than the normal Euros and they are a limited run. As for the Rebop, if you are lookin at the PJ version of it, bear in mind that the P pickup is closer to the bridge due to the deep pocket insert than on the neck through Euro. Not that it is a bad or good thing, just good to know FWIW) I can't comment on BassDirect as I've never dealt with them. But they do carry the largest selection of Spectors in Europe AFAIK. edit: now that I've checked, the bridge pu is also closer to the bridge on the Rebop

I can not comment on the Rebop neck dive issue as I never had one, but I've heard about it. Doug Wimbish signature is a Euro4 with a different neck profile and otherwise quite indistinguishable compared to other Euro4's with orange color. So you can get away wit hthat :-) (the one in the classified is a US NS-2 with a DW neck profile. This is an option on the US 4 string instruments and is called DW because he was the first to ask Stuart for a 1.5" nut)

Nice find Michele, have many happy hours with it!

I think I understand your point. If you check my profile pic you see how a 5 string 35" scale Spector Euro is positioned when worn quite high. (im 5.9') The 4 string is 34" so it is shorter. Anyway, if it is an issue for you then by all means try one before buying.

I have owned and own several Spectors from almost every level: Korean, Euro and US. I have to say that one of the biggest pro for this brand is that their products are of very good value in every price segment they have products. I can recommend Spectors without any doubt in any level really. Assuming you are a 4 string player, a Euro 4 would be a really good backup for the SR, but not just like that. The PJ pickup config has a great variety of sounds, it nails the P tone quite well, with the J added it sounds really growly and fat. These basses are built exceptionally well with well thought out ergonomics Ergonomics and sound were the two things that won me over for Spector and after going through many other basses I have settled for them as my main basses. Any specific question you have I'm happy to answer....

Congrats! I'm a happy user of several Spector basses and love them! And don't forget:

[quote name='Chris2112' timestamp='1488341721' post='3248056'] It's also hugely expensive. Handmade in Japan, like the Adam Nitti bass. I believe it is 14mm string spacing, which is tight! [/quote] There is a budget modell called GVB36 which is not that expensive as the Japan-made GVB1006 http://www.ibanez.com/products/eb_detail17.php?year=2017&area_id=3&cat_id=2&series_id=65&data_id=161&color=CL01

I've just received a bass from Michele. The whole transaction was like the one everyone wishes an international transaction to be. Easy, great communication, fast response and a no-nonsense approach. I would happily deal with Michele anytime soon and wholeheartedly recommend him to anyone to do business with!

I used to have a JM2. The string spacing is 18mm at the bridge if I remember correctly. It was tighter than the usual TRB spacing (19mm) I liked the ergonomics of the neck but did not like the overall ergonomics of the bass. Sounded quite good but that's subjective. If I was on the market for a tighter spaced 6 string bass with 34" scale i'd rather look at some Ibanez Premium or Prestige Soundgear six string basses. (16.5mm) Those are what I ended up with after going through many a six string basses.

A Spector Euro 4 will cut through just about everything, has quite a good range of sounds, great ergonomics and it does not cost a fortune. edit: i'd choose the Stingray from the list in the OP. But for me Spector works better (used a couple of Stingrays in the past)

I think the measure of the "fretless fretboard chewing by roundwounds" depends a lot on whteher you bend the string sideways or not. Most of the marks I have seen on fretless boards were clearly results of this technique which is quite unnecessary on a fretless... Also as Grangur pointed out, playing technique, light touch can also make the difference. I prefer the sound of the coated boards and I do not like flats much. Should I have a fretless bass (which currently I don't) I'd use Elixir strings as I belive that coated strings are not only easier on the skin but on the fretboard, too. ( I use Elixirs on my fretted basses lately and I like them quite a lot)

Can't help your wallet, there is no reason for not buying it. I had a couple of Yamahas before (not the model you've tried) but they were great instruments of high quality. If you liked how it sounds and feels then you are set, as there is nothing to worry about the build quaility or such.

Much wise things have been said by previous posters so I will not repeat those. Just a pro and a con from my experience I think the process itself is such a great experience. Thinking and planning and looking for parts and options and all of that. Narrowing down all the options of pickups, hardware, woods, shapes, etc. looking at other basses for what you like, what you don't. I really enjoyed that part of the process of my custom build. The con was that while the bass that was made for me was the most comfortable ever, the sound was just not there. It was sounding ok, but not great, not something that blew me away. After fiddling and trying to get used to it for some years I have sold it off with a huge loss. It did not put me off from having another custom in the future, but one can not be 100% certain that the final product will click or not as you can not try before buy. That is the advantage of the off the shelf basses (and 2nd hand ones) Having rediscovered Spector basses some years ago I realized that what I need is right there with off the shelf instruments...

I just don't judge any bass on the basis of whether it is passive or active. Happens that all my basses are active though some of them has active/passive switch or EQ bypass. But I rarely fiddle much with the knobs, I just have a preferred setup and that's it.