Boodang

https://www.walrusaudio.com/collections/all-effect-pedals Walrus are doing some cool stuff at the moment. The Slo pedal is bonkers.

For small pedal boards I now use skateboards with funky artwork! Without the trucks obviously.

Mackie DLM series is also nice and compact. Not the cheapest though.

Seriously did this for years with a band back in the 90s. We had this depressed indie vibe that could clear a pub by set 2. In the end we just started announcing songs as if they were an obscure cover by The Cure or such like, and everyone loved it.

PS these strings are super delicate! Once they're strung they're fine and I've never had one break on me but be v careful when stringing them.

Best strings I've ever used. My DB has strings with a nylon synthetic core so these appealed to me. I use the Synthesis flats on my fretless and they have a sublime buttery soft feel to them (they are the opposite of a stiff string). Sound wise similar to TI flats. But as mentioned, takes quite a few days to settle in but so do the nylon cores on my DB.... the price you pay for a synthetic core.

Just tell venues you're a covers band and then turn up and do your own music. When they say they didn't recognize any numbers just tell them they're obscure songs no one remembers and you're keeping the flame alive.

In price order; Zoom B1x - cheap, cheerful and good enough Zoom B6 - even better TC Electronic Plethora X5 - simpler operation, and tc's toneprints are fantastic

With bright onion you can choose the colour of the pedal, the writing and each led. Awesome pedals.

...oh, it has a phase switch, how handy is that!

Sacre bleu!! Jaco will never forgive you... oh wait, it's fender he should never forgive for producing the thing in the first place.

...yet!

To be less disappointed, try a, now discontinued, Squier VM jazz fretless. S/h should only cost you a few hundred.

No phase switch!

I only buy amps that go to 11.

Famously the Kubicki basses have a high output level (so not many!) but these days most onboard preamps have sensible output signal levels.

The worst for me was Fender's attempt at a Jaco signature. The Squier VM fretless had a resin board and was closer to the mark.... and 3 grand cheaper!

To a certain extent the boosting thing is correct, it's just a different way of looking at it. The preamp will have an ideal signal level and passive inputs normally have more gain than an active input to try and achieve that. And that's where you can get a problem with a 'hot' signal where the gain applied exceeds the headroom and causes clipping. Impedences often get forgotten about but is a crucial part of the circuit.

TC Electronic Plethora X5 could be a good fit if you know what fx you want to you use.

Would a Zoom B6 do the job? A lot less expensive!

Strings.... for a certain scale length and string diameter there will be a corresponding tension that's needed for a particular pitch, however, the construction of the string will determine it's flexibility. I have a set of the Galli Synthesis flats, these have a nylon core and consequently are the most 'flexible strings I have played. A lot of flats can be quite stiff so worth asking around, I prefer flexible strings hence the Galli's and TI flats. As for nylon, I find the D'addario tapewounds much brighter than the LaBella's so depends on your preference.

General speaking the active and passive inputs on an amp are related to the level of signal they can handle. Passive output basses are not going to have a 'hot' signal, whereas an active preamp could. So, a passive amp input is geared for a lower signal and more gain, an active input will cope with a higher level signal (which might otherwise overload the passive input). Also, there could be a difference in impedence. A passive bass generally will have an output impedence of 10k, but an active preamp might have a lower impedence (the Sadowsky is 1k whereas EMG stick to 10k even though it's active and most line drivers will be 600ohms). Worth checking the specs on your amp to see if the inputs have different impedences. So long as the output impedence of the bass is less than the input impedence on your amp you're ok, so 1k into 10k is good. The other way around is bad and will act as a filter, so output 10k impedence into input 1k is not a good idea. Most amps and pedals will have a high impedence, say 1Mohms, to make sure everything going in will be below that.

I have to say that in terms of SBL you'll be putting in hard work if you do one of their courses.