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soopercrip

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Everything posted by soopercrip

  1. [quote name='Hamster' post='599020' date='Sep 15 2009, 10:36 AM']The string vibrates, which makes the wood vibrate, which affects how long the string sustains for, and the density of the vibrating wood cuts or enhances certain frequencies. You won't hear it much on an active bass with a lot of boost, but should really hear the difference the wood makes on a passive bass with a piezo pickup. Without the wood vibrating and playing its part, would an upright bass work? [/quote] I understand with an acoustic based instrument like a double bass that the sound is down to the sound box and can be influenced by the type of wood, what I struggle with understanding, is that the sound is 'electronically collected' , if you like, at the point (time) of picking, on an electric bass (active or passive), while the woods natural resonance I agree can affect the sustain, where (when) does it get the 'chance' to affect the tone, as the pickup instantly generates the signal. Or do I just have to accept that 'it does' and I'm being a bit 'two short planks' here... Andy
  2. ...where it comes in with regard to influencing the sound produced. (guess this has been asked a few times before but help me out here please guys) So the string is suspended in the magnetic field of the pickup, between the nut, which can be of various materials, and the saddle, which is metal. If you finger a note, the string is suspended between the metal fret and the saddle. The vibration of the string creates a signal that passes to the amp through the wiring. So at no point is this touched in anyway by the wood (unless it's fretless and then it only touches the fingerboard). Therefore, if you have a good quality pickup, fretwire and bridge saddle, with high quality wire for the signal to pass through to the amp (and some talent) surely the woods used are purely aesthetic? If this is wrong, then why? How does the wood influence the tone? What makes it influence the signal, or should I just use MDF on my next project and use best quality hardware with a good amp and speakers? ...and prove it to me please Andy
  3. Which bass?? What bass?? I can't see no bass!!! Piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiccccccccsssss!!!!!!!! Andy
  4. [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='593059' date='Sep 8 2009, 05:00 PM']you could try axesrus.com G.[/quote] +1 always had good service from them, usually next working day Andy
  5. Hi Eddie I think Jewsons might have an issue with machining timber that isn't theirs, local one in Brid is like that. Maybe try ringing these [url="http://www.heritagejoiners.com/contact.php"]http://www.heritagejoiners.com/contact.php[/url] and asking if they will do it for you. At worst they can only say no mate Andy
  6. Not by hand matey, you will never get a good enough edge. Needs to be machine planed edged and thicknessed for a good joint (maybe even biscuit joined, I did). And at least 6 cramps to hold it while it glues up. Alternating the cramps above and below to avoid cupping. Rough shaping with a bandsaw, and taking down close to size with a belt sander. Then it's hand stuff. Andy
  7. I have a 3 eq and love it. It's very forgiving for my crappy style of playing. Always pick it up first for a practice, although I have 'better' basses. Hamster is right, anything up to £600 is a good deal, although I'd want to see it in the flesh before parting. particularly with zero feedback. Andy
  8. Well done matey. Guess that means you're a proper musician too Andy
  9. Cetera has my bass pod XT at the mo. If he decides he doesn't want it then it will be available for £50 posted Heaps of effects and amp modules, and has a headphone jack so you don't scare the neighbours Andy
  10. Also a good idea to 'dip' the hot end of the iron in flux (briefly in and out) to clean it takes off all the sh*t and lets the solder run off more freely Prefer bakers fluid for flux rather than waxy stuff Andy
  11. [quote name='JackLondon' post='576619' date='Aug 21 2009, 12:45 PM']Andy at Prime Timbers has the best wood, I know because the redwood top for my bass comes from him [/quote] Got my walnut for my current project from him and it's gorgeous, but this is just outstanding
  12. This has got to be the nicest piece of quilted maple I've seen in a long time... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STUNNING-EXHIBITION-QUILTED-MAPLE-BILLET-TONEWOOD_W0QQitemZ200375523293QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item2ea74fd7dd&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STUNNING-EXHIBITION-...id=p3286.c0.m14[/url] Andy
  13. missed it, what did I miss tell me tell me...
  14. Still have my Yamaha BB605 available, I'm in Brid if you fancy trying it out little used and not expensive if it's your first 5 er Andy
  15. My 2p When you first pick up a bass you spend months learning how to play it wether it's a £50 taiwan piece of ply or a pedulla Then you get something else and instead of learning that, you want it to play like the action you have become accustomed to and it doesn't. So then you get some thing else, and something else, and it becomes "this is how I play, make me a bass to suit it" instead of learning the difference and adapting. If you bought a stradivarius, and didn't like the action, would you adapt, or fit a badass? Andy
  16. That looks excellent mike, +1 for more pics got the building bug bad then? (me too) GAS attack for buying, whats the build bug then? (answers on a £50 note send too....) Andy
  17. [quote name='Mikey R' post='561852' date='Aug 6 2009, 11:45 AM']I dont think the pre makes much difference, but Im not sure - I think the hum is mostly picked up by the pickups. IIRC EMG recommend not using a string ground, as their pickups are really well shielded the string ground actually makes this worse. Merton and I have a pair of custom Wizard 84s that have extra shielding, when I get round to it Im going to try them without a ground and see how they hum.[/quote] I'm shielding the pick up cav with copper and I've already drilled the hole for the centre bridge ground. I gues it won't be too much to try it first without and see what happens. Was just a bit concerned about popping a £200 pre. maybe I'll PM Skelf for confirmation Thanks mate Andy
  18. Delete button time I reckon...
  19. Thanks Mikey (I think now got 5 choices) Theres no danger of dodgy stage wiring as I don't gig mate, I'm using the ACG 02 pre, you think that will be ok without a string ground? Cheers Andy
  20. Been a bit busy so things have been shelved for a bit, but managed to make a start again today although I haven't had chance to take any decent pics. And I need a bit of help with the bridge. because of the spacing on the pup, I've decided on single bridges rather than a solid bridge. All the hardware is black, and I've picked up some from thomann that are sound, but I'm unsure about grounding them. So, they all need grounding, right?? Or just one?? Andy
  21. [quote name='Doctor J' post='554758' date='Jul 29 2009, 09:08 AM']I've got a 55.2 in a Godlyke Disciple 5, I'm waiting on a Bartolini NTMB to arrive for it. I'll let you know how I get on. I had a Sadowsky with the VTC, very nice, couldn't fault it. I've another J with a Noll TCM3 (vol, blend, bass mid treble cut & boost plus a passive push/pull with a passive tone all on a 3 knob Jazz control plate) which is very flexible but the low boost is a little muddy and three stack knobs is a little crowded. I had another bass with an Aguilar OBP1 in it, which was ok, preferred the Sadowsky tone to it. My favourite, however, is a Bacchus with a Bart XTCT in it. The low end is warm but defined, the high is clear without being harsh and it's impossible to get a bad tone out of it no matter what way you set it, which is why I'm going with the Bart to pair with the 55.2[/quote] Got to decide soon I had got it narrowed down to either the acg or the nordstrand, but now.... (too much bloody choice )
  22. So I've made a start. Worked out the final pattern sourced all the wood,(thanks for all the advice and donations) sharpened my whittlin' knife, summoned up some courage (best bitter) and off we go Still going for a 2 1/2 octave neck, so a deep cutaway for the lower horn. The cherry i got for the body had a slight crack so ripped it down and jointed it, planed and thicknessed, added the walnut top and shaped it to pattern. Had enough wenge (thanks to longmayourun- some geezer that) for making a five piece neck with the quater sawn cherry. Still a bit worried that it maybe too soft but going to give it a go and see... ...and it looks like this .... [attachment=29818:Picture_...63820000.JPG][attachment=29819:Picture_...63830000.JPG]Spot the join [attachment=29820:Picture_...63860000.JPG][attachment=29821:Picture_...63880000.JPG][attachment=2982 2:Picture_...63890000.JPG] [attachment=29823:Picture_...63900000.JPG]mmmm wenge... loving it Andy
  23. This is a steal, half the price of new [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=54905"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=54905[/url]
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