biro

[quote name='Mornats' timestamp='1409769525' post='2543183'] Nanyo-made Bass Collections tend to go for the criminally low price of £150-200 or so second hand and I've heard that the later models aren't as good as the original Japanese ones so I'd not want to pay as much as one of those. However, saying that... the ultimate decider is how much you think it's worth yourself (which I know doesn't help!). Every bass feels different to someone else and if this one is spot on for you then you'd pay more for it than others would. Personally, I'd not want to pay more than £100 or so for one. [/quote] Thanks a lot Mornats. The price I've been asked is actually lower than that, so I might give it a go and see how it behaves!

Update. Seen the bass and looks and plays nice. It's in good condition and I cannot locate any "made in" label. It's a normal black four-stringer. Anybody has an idea how much I should pay for it, if I go through with the purchase? Thanks a lot!

[quote name='Mornats' timestamp='1409689918' post='2542350'] I don't think these are the Japanese Nanyo-made ones. They may be the Korean reissues that came out after the original company went bust. [/quote] Thank you very much Mornats! Have you ever happened to get your hands on one?

Hello guys, quick question. A friend of mine wants to get rid of this four stringer. I don't know why, but I generally like these kind of basses. Are these any good? I read that there is some sort of a cult following, but I sorta got lost with all the various series and I couldn't really fetch any info on the SB100 model/ series. Any generous soul who could give me any info? I really wouldn't want to deal with a massive lemon faulty truss rods and the likes. That would be massively appreciated.

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1379074779' post='2208388'] I really like the second one very nice stuff [/quote] Thank you charic! I will have to work on my intonation using a bottleneck: I've been trying to tame that little piece of metal, but to little avail.

Hey guys, here is a couple of new videos in which I tried to make the most of my newly acquired Ibanez BTB705DX. I'm very happy with the sound and overall feel of the bass. I went straight into my trusty Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and then recorded with Logic Pro X, which so far has surprised me in terms of ease of use. The drummer function truly is a nice addition. I am far less happy with my playing technique and timing, but still the videos might be helpful to someone who is curious about the bass. So, here we go: [media]http://youtu.be/EUtMzt-s1uw[/media] [media]http://youtu.be/PEDiCy6v2iY[/media]

Ok, I think I finally found the culprit. In some monorail bridges such as mine, which looks more or less like this one, the actual string saddle is enclosed in a somewhat bigger structure. It's a nice design and, if everything is crafted properly, there will be a tight fit between the inner and outer parts of each monorail bridge. That is exactly what I found to be lacking: the saddle is a tiny bit too narrow and, as a consequence, when the string vibrates, the saddle vibrates too and starts "bouncing" onto the outer part enclosing it. This produces the buzz whereof I have been speaking... As usual, thank you guys for helping me out with this problem!

Thank you very much! I think your comment is spot on, the resulting noise is quite similar to that caused by a nut which has not been cut properly. However, this affects fretted notes and thus cannot be due to the nut. On the other hand, a bass bridge always makes contact with the strings and is the most likely cause. I wonder if there is anything I can do to improve the saddle. The point is: the D and G strings vibrate wonderfully, and the B string ain't bad either. Short of replacing the strings, I think this might have something to do with the size of the strings slots on the bridge.

Hello everyone, I was wondering if any of you tech-savvy gearheads could help me sort this issue out. I have recently bought an Ibanez BTB705DX, which is by far one of the best instruments I ever played in terms of playability and tone--which is hardly surprising, as it is loaded with some EMG goodness. However, I am experiencing an issue that really bothers me. While the sustain on the treble side is just plain awesome, the same does not appear to apply to the same extent to the bass side. Well, the B string sounds remarkably clear, loud and for a long time. Nevertheless it appears that something is choking the proper vibration of the E and A strings. The phenomenon appears to mainly affect the E string when I am fretting notes and to result in a buzzing sitar-like sound that seems to originate from the bridge area. I have attached a video in order to avoid splitting hairs. http://youtu.be/0KBv2_vw0sE I am not talking about the normal string buzz, which I am used to, and I like to a certain extent. The noise to which I am referring is lower in pitch and has a different nature. I tend to exclude the truss rods from being potential causes of the noise at issue (hitting the back of the neck results in no noise whatsoever). They also work fine, and I don't think they are responsible for that noise. I tried removing the bridge springs on the E and A strings and the noise appeared to diminish, but did not disappear. I put on a "fairly new" E string, but it didn't really solve the problem. I took it from another bass, tough, so it may well have been subject to weird torsion and stuff. I also tried to put on an exposed core E string (LaBella Supersteps) but, besides the usual chorus effect, there was little improvement. I've come to the conclusion that the most likely cause is that horrible bridge, but I am not quite sure about what I should do -- short of buying and fitting new strings on the bass. Any thoughts? Thank you so much, mateys!

i get your point. however, since I got this little piece of software, i've rarely found myself using the ampeg svx plugin. it sounds killer, that's true. but it's also pretty refined and needs a little bit of tweaking in order to perform well. i believe it's just me, maybe i prefer a more direct approach.

i had the opportunity to try a couple of sandbergs. one was a special model made for the italian site megabass.it, and was a well-playing simple instrument. kind of a no frill bass, with just a single sopabar pickup (delano, i suppose) in the sweet spot position. as far as I am concerned, it was a good instrument, but nothing really special. I also played a 5 string active jazz clone (ash/maple/maple) with delano pick ups: in that particular case I was kind of disappointed. It was, of course, a beautiful bass, great looks and excellent finish. It was also a joy to play, but I ended up thinking that it was kind of lacking in personality.

hey fellas, I've had a sansamp clone by behringer for a long time, and eventually, it died in some misterious circumstances. I've thought about replacing it, but since I'm kind of a nerdy gearhead and I usually yield to my natural inclination I decided to check for some VSTs. apparently, this fits the needs I had just right. this said, I recorded a very short sample (perhaps the shortest ever). It's just a short bassline on a power rock groove, but you should be able to get an idea of how it sounds. [url="http://soundcloud.com/ballpointmusic/sansamp"]http://soundcloud.com/ballpointmusic/sansamp[/url] post scriptum: the bass is an SX JB. posterius scriptum: how stoned am I? I completely forgot to add the link to the download page: [url="http://www.theserinaexperiment.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=68"]http://www.theserinaexperiment.net/forum/v...hp?f=9&t=68[/url]

My 2 cents: I've had the io2 for two days, then I simply could jot stand the incredible latency issues anymore and promptly returned it.

[quote name='Chris2112' post='1359895' date='Sep 2 2011, 03:14 PM']They are better than the equivalent jazz bass, or any jazz bass save for the big money ones. You'd have to spend some cash to get a jazz bass with similar spec (ebony board, flamed maple top, etc etc). They are essentially very different to the usuL choices of Musicman and Fender. The mk1 models are easily as well built. If a 6 string is what you want you may struggle to do better for the price. I'd go for a big money TRB if I wanted N6 string, but you could get two Myung basses and change for the price of a TRB. I doubt you'd be disappointed with a mk1 model, put it that way.[/quote] i'll have to disagree with that: i don't really think trb's are better built. I do believe, on the contrary, that the yamaha myung is a conceptually simpler bass and the simplicity of its design entails some consequences one could consider "rough edges". EDIT: sorry, I've mistaken your words. I now see you were referring to the higher priced trb's, and I actually agree with everything you said.

fun fact (oh, boy: here we go again) about the sound: in order to get the "overdub" effect, I've decided to develop a guitar rig patch that basically works like this: the signal is split in two channel, one panned full R and the other full L. the I add an extremely short delay (about 15ms) with as little feedback as possible and set it to be completely wet. this way, however, one track is always 15ms ahead of the other, and it still sounds very different from an actual overdubbed recording. to achieve this effect, I use the guitar rig modifier, basically an LFO you can assign to whatever guitar rig parameter. I set it to control the "time" parameter on the delay with a slow sine wave and with very little depth. this way, the time parameter constantly varies between around 10ms and 20 ms, allowing you record just one track. it really works for most purposes. here is a screenshot of my guitar rig settings: [url="http://postimage.org/image/2gw7ekaqs/"][/url]

thanks a lot fellas, it's good to have some feedback. I'm still considering selling this bass, but everytime I listen to some recording I've made with it I start fearing that I would deeply regret doing so. and TL-6's are hard to find nowadays. mh.

hey, this is my latest tapping video. I'm in some kind of recording spree this week, so I'm constantly producing stuff - and I am not so sure whether it's a good thing or not, to be honest. therefore, I hereby submit to your attention the attached video.

where do you hear the buzz? the rule of thumb in this cases is that to check the exact location of the rattle/buzz. if it's on the first 4-5 frets, the neck is too straight, otherwise it's just a matter of frets/touch. can you adjust the string spacing on your bridge? that might be an additional tweak, if the rattle is located on a determined spot. shimming the neck always helps if you want to lower the action, as it provides more room to do so. I am aware of some theories about the effects of a shim as far as sound vibrations are concerned, but I've never experienced any problem even when using with the most unsuitable materials. btw, I've always heard wonders about Sads' fretwork, so I take it that you could easily get a relief as low as a 0.20 mm gap between the bottom of the string and the 8th fret (while, obviously, pressing the first and last fret).

ok, and here we go: I'll try to explain everything I've done as thoroughly as I can. First of all, I'm only covering the PC side. I know for sure that you can do that on a mac even more easily, but, as I don't have one here, I'm not able to provide any explanation. What I know about it is that OSX should have a native utility to handle midi over wifi messages, but, hey, that's all I know, and it's definitely not much. [b][/b]what you need:[b][/b] a musical instrument/microphone/et cetera; a laptop with an audio interface/integrated sound card; an iPhone, iPad, iPod touch; an iOS application called iXY[url="http://www.cmsoftwaredesigns.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49&Itemid=59"](link)[/url]; [url="http://nerds.de/en/loopbe1.html"]A free virtual midi driver like LoopBE1[/url] a server application known as DSWiFiMIDI - download it from [url="http://code.google.com/p/dsmi/downloads/list"]here[/url]; then: 1) install loopBE1 -> it's also free; 2) unpack DSWifiMIDI in a folder you like (I created a folder within dropbox since I'm always scared of accidentally deleting things); 3) run LoopBE1 and DSWifiMIDI; 4) within the DSWifiMIDI window, choose LoopBE as the default midi output: this will eventually allow to rewire the incoming midi signal from your iPhone to your favourite DAW. Like this: [url="http://postimage.org/image/ovarnj7o/"]http://postimage.org/image/ovarnj7o/[/url] 5) open your DAW and be sure to add and activate LoopBE1 as a midi input. [b]And what now?[/b] Well, whilst the procedure might be slightly different for other DAWs, the procedure in reaper shows some general principles which could come handy to refer to even while working with a difference sequencer. First of all, open reaper and create two tracks. Open a guitar rig instance as an insert on the first track; feel free to arm the track and switch the monitoring button on. On the second track, right click on the "arm recordin button" and select "input: MIDI" and in the dropdown/dropout menu coming out select "all midi inputs". Once you've done that you have to create a send from track 2 to track 1. Why? Because this way you will manage to send a midi signal to guitar rig while simultaneously being able to feed it an audio input. so, holding down ctrl, click on the send/receive area of track n. 2 and drag and drop a send on the same area on track 1. This should come out: [url="http://postimage.org/image/1j6humvk4/"]http://postimage.org/image/1j6humvk4/[/url] basically, let it send every midi signal, and prevent it from sending audio - although it won't happen anyways. Now, arm track 2 as well and press the monitoring button. As far as the DAW configuration goes, your job is done. You only have to configure guitar rig and you are good to go. click again on guitar rig until the window gets in the foreground, open a preset you want to be able to control, click on the "options" button to open the correspondent pane. click on "controller" and select "add a controller". associate the controller with the device you want to controll (e.g. whammy pedal, delay feedback, amount of distortion...), then press learn. all you have to do now is open iXY on your phone and start moving your finger across the screen in the desired direction. remember you can control (as I am given understand) 4 different parameters on two pads with a split screen. of course, you can also associate more controllers to the same movement on the X or Y axis. as you move your fingers on the iPhone you should start seeing a movement on the controller [b]and you're done![/b] hope this helps