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biro

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by biro

  1. It is one of the most annoying items to sort out. I bought a cheap pair off of ebay and of course they do not fit on my Fender CS pick ups... read the reviews carefully! Eventually I will have to get the original CS ones, I suppose.
  2. Oh, wow! This is some serious sleuthing!
  3. Apparently no one is sure of the builder—I have to confess I am not sure either. https://burningshed.com/store/mickkarn/mick-karn_5-string-fretless-bass_other
  4. It's sparklier than that, but weighs just as much
  5. Indeed. Mine is supposedly from 1989/1990 and looks like this:
  6. I agree. I would say that a wides, padded, suede strap goes a long way in making it manageable, and you get used to it. But a balanced instrument the Thumb is not. The NT is probably a bit better than the BO but for the NT as well you have to account for different body shapes (eg the broadneck has a slightly different body shape, pre-2000 ones have a shorter upper horn...), but still isn't an ergonomics masterpiece.
  7. I have a late 80s / early 90s custom Thumb NT and used to have a more recent bolt on version as well. My impression was that sonically they were pretty similar. There is a video on youtube where somebody compared a Thumb BO with a NT, and I think it answered that question pretty decently. Fretboard wood (notwithstanding the scepticism surrounding the topic) might make a difference, especially with NT with an ebony fretboard. In any event, the characteristic sound is given by the pick up position rather than anything else. I second those who said that a Thumb's voice is absolutely unique. Other Warwick basses, especially with MEC pick ups, are voiced somewhat similarly, but they do not sound the same on account of the rather unique pick up placement. I don't use mine as much as I'd like, but there is no arguing that it is an incredible instrument. In terms of versatility, it depends. I find that it goes well with a number of genres—much like a Stingray does—though of course if you are aiming for a fat P bass tone you are probably doing it wrong.
  8. Seriously the best bass I have, though I put it on sale twice before realising it!
  9. Another point, of course, has to do with personal settings. I play with extremely low action and a straight neck, so if the neck moves I am bound to notice it. If you play with more relief and higher action it is highly likely that you will be a little more forgiving and notice the movement far less. As to Stingrays, one of the things that has always surprised me is that they are still not using carbon rods in the necks. I am not saying that they are always necessary, but certainly they contribute to making the neck a little more impervious to changes in weather. The two maple-necked stingrays I had before my current one (which is a status graphite necked specimen) did not impress me much neck-wise.
  10. All other things being equal, and talking about averages, a highly figured wood is more susceptible to movement. However, the reality is that wood is wood and some instruments will move more than others, depending on what piece of wood it was built from. The neck being finished, assuming it has also been sealed properly, should make it less susceptible to this kind of problems, but the reality is that it is difficult to tell. I have a couple of unfinished necks which will not move no matter what (both graphite and steel reinforced, to be fair). I had a Peavey GV with a modulus graphite neck that did move a fair bit—I assume, due to the pau ferro fretboard. The reality is that it can happen.
  11. I bought a Status-necked Stingray from David in the easiest of transactions. Super smooth, great comms, overall top bloke. Seal of approval from me!
  12. Oh sweet baby jesus, I have the 5 string version. This is stunning.
  13. I’d say both—always wanted a B2, and a bass with a piezo too (though I do have a Yamaha TRB5P).
  14. You are right, misread! (Though I wonder if the piezo saddles are still there.)
  15. Is the piezo still working? Extremely interested!
  16. I had an embarrassing number of soundgears and I still have a few. I had intonation issues on one only—an SR1205, since sold, which remains one of the best playing basses I’ve ever owned. The intonation issue was only on the A and E strings but, here’s the kicker, the intonation was spot on with the suggestion strings (105 gauge). So, d’addario EXL165 yes, EXL170 no. I don’t really play flats, but I also have to say that in my experience flats can be a bit weird and inconsistent intonation-wise.
  17. It's an exceptional instrument! I had one which I loved dearly—should you ever sell it...
  18. I had a couple of EMG40DC lying around so I decided to drop them into the SR1306. It works well, but I promptly forgot that they use a barrel jack, and was in a hurry, so here you go. If it ain't broke...
  19. Having replaced a BBOT with a hi mass bridge in the past, I agree that the differences are truly minimal, if there are any differences at all. I am convinced, however, that a bridge can make a significant difference in some cases—think Warwick / Spector brass stuff and so on. But we are talking of a significantly higher mass to begin with, not to mention an entirely different design. In any event, the Fender Hi Mass is a fantastic bridge—in fact, had it been metric, it would have been perfect.
  20. I may be biased as I have too many anyways, but I am a big fan of the SR in general, and I really do consider them to be the new standard for everything. The SR300E or SR300EB basses I have tried (the new generations, with the powerspan pick ups) all sounded excellent and punched way beyond their weight. If you're unsure, Joshua Young plays an SR300. Does not seem to hinder him....
  21. These are fantastic basses. I have the non-signature version and it sounds incredible. Have a bump on me!
  22. I'll bite too. Here's the collection. In (what I hope will be the) order: SR30th5PII (Indonesia, 2017) SR5005-SOL (MIJ, 2009) SR1306PM (MIJ 1993-1994) and SR3006 (MIJ 2003) SR800 (1993-1994) SR1306 (the same as above)
  23. Hi all, Selling this, which I bought here. Fantastic pedal, and personally, I think it's an improvement over the original Microtubes concept as the crossover works very well on bass. However, as it turns out, I prefer doing things "in the box" using my laptop. Moreover, my partner keeps finding pedals under my desk, and at some point will realise it's not always the same three... Comes with original box and booklet. Blurb below. The Microtubes X series brings the studio method producers have been using the years to cover the whole bass distortion spectrum: from articulate high gain to punchy mild overdrive, raw and gnarly fuzz and everything in between. You now have absolute control in constructing your vision of what the perfect bass distortion texture, definition, and size should have. High-pass frequency: Controls the cutoff frequency to be distorted, ranging from 100Hz (for thicker, fuzzier saturation) or 1kHz for ultra-sharp definition. Low-pass frequency: Controls the cutoff frequency to be mixed back to the high-pass side. Ranging from 50Hz (for only sub-bass) and 500Hz to preserve some clean mids. Level: Sets the overall output volume of the unit. Drive: Sets the amount of distortion for the high pass side. Mix: Sets the blend between low-pass and high-pass signals. Mids: Active mid control placed after the Mix control. +-12dB @ 500Hz.
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