Jack

There's a tallboy in the classifieds here that's down south and it annoys me that it's not closer. </whinge>

Ebmm have cut their colours right down. I think the bongo comes in 2. The stingray has what you're talking about too, different finishes per string number.

Wireless is more about not tripping or tangling a cable than it is about that.

Rack amps should have inputs on the back. It's fine on normal amps but on racks they need to have an extra on the back. If Peavey can get this right why can't others? My last wireless was only half width, so that left space if I needed it. Not that I needed it, because the helix (which was designed to go in a rack!) had an input on the back.

Wireless!

Out of interest, why 80% volume?

They all sound poop when I play them.

Hi everyone. What are the differences in the old (Lee Sklar) Microbass combos? Unfortunately when I Google no matter what I do I get people explaining the differences between the -s and the -e (chorus, etc) but I mean the differences between the -e i, ii and iii. Thanks

Helix? 😁

Hi everyone. I have a Nano that hosts my main gigging setup which is powered by a Cioks DC7, and very good it is too. However, I've also got another board that very rarely leaves the house that consists of Korg Pitchblack Advance TC Mojo Mojo Tech 21 Paradriver This is not a complicated board, it has less than 100mA of draw even if everything was turned on and it doesn't need isolation. I have been using pedal board batteries to power this (Warwick and now Harley Benton) but I'd prefer a wall solution, what fits under a Nano that's not really expensive? I was looking at my guitarists board which has a Vitoos Dc4 but that seems discontinued. I have a preference for something that plugs straight into the wall and doesn't use a power brick but I have a spare Diago Power station that would fit in top in a pinch. Thanks

The amount of people who have quoted me in this thread proves that there is, at best, a very loose correlation between cost and quality. Is a £6k Fodera noticeably better than a £100 Gear4Music own-brand p bass? Absolutely! Do all the basses in between follow that logic in perfect cost order? Not at all. I really belive that, if you'd never heard of any of the brands, you'd say my MIA and MI Fenders was near the bottom of my pile. Certainly below my Sire V7, which cost half as much.

Are you blending that signal with one that never leaves the helix? Makes me wonder in the delay from the da/ad is causing the phasing.

Most of the big names make a power supply that will handle that no problem. My Cioks DC7 would, as would a Strymon Ojai. In fact as long as there's one high current output for the Boss the rest could probably all share. Something like the Cioks Adam will manage if you combine the two high current outputs. Harley Benton make a few that fit the bill on the cheaper end of the market.

There's also the Zander Sono.

Welcome to Basschat. It's a beautiful day in the North... 😁

They'll be great.

Well not necessarily. It's not always convenient or indeed possible to mic a cab. Or you might be using your amp with a different, provided cab, any number of things. If nothing else having more options is always good.

All over, and the prices don't always reflect the quality.

One of the most coherent basses I've ever played, certainly one of the best low Bs.

I'm going to go with 'mostly realistic'. The ampeg sounds ampeggy, close enough anyway. I've never really cared though as the real question isn't "does it sound realistic?" but rather "does it sound good?".

As long as you avoid the really really small stuff like the battery power amps then the class above that (the ones you've linked to) are pretty much all good enough. The Fender rumbles are super popular, I've not played the smaller ones but my 800 was amazing, maybe look at those slightly preferentially.