Jack

[quote name='FinnDave' timestamp='1490201141' post='3263203'] .... I recently changed from a perfectly good hatchback to an estate simply to make loading my gear in and out easier. Until recently, if it wasn't for playing in bands, I would have happily made do with a bike and no car. ... I don't know any other drummers (or anyone who plays in a band) who doesn't drive and own a suitable vehicle. [/quote] Tell me about it. Out with the Fiesta ST-3 and in with the Subaru Outback.

Yeah, if you're from oooop nurth like we are you just can't really without a car. Gigs are few and far between and without a car you'll never be able to gig outside the metro system. That might be fine for you but your band mates won't want the headache when every other bass player has a car. Now, them having the money to put petrol in it is another matter......................

Sounds like that's the best kind of tweeter. Thanks bassace.

I can't recommend the Alto stuff enough. I'm quite snobby when it comes to gear sometimes and my band just aren't. They wouldn't fork out for any of the 'brand name' stuff and I wouldn't let them scrape the barrel so we settled on Alto and you know what? It's bloody brilliant! We have two of the TS115 tops and two TS Sub 15 subs. Regardless of which brand and models you go for, my advice would be to start with two powered tops and a mixer. You can then add subs, outboard and monitors as you start gigging and work out what you really need. One thing that's often overlooked in cheap PAs is a delay unit. If you can stagger the PA a few milliseconds to match the backline the results are enormous.

Hey everyone, Simple question, but can you turn the tweeter down on the new midgets? I want a tweeter for EUB but not for BG. Thanks, Jack

£281 on baxshop. If it's 500W and 4.2kg it has to be class d surely? How heavy is something like a handbox or a walkabout?

[quote name='Passinwind' timestamp='1489939067' post='3260943'] Can't really say yet, things are one level too deep into hearsay still. [/quote] Well now my finger is hovering the button on their little 6.5" bass combo. Damn you, GAS.

That Baby Sumo looks amazing, hadn't seen that before. You know your stuff Charlie, is it any good?

I hate to argue with somweone who's had first-hand experience, but I can't see why that Peavey wouldn't be a good amp. Everything else Peavey makes is, and it's specs say it's -3dB is like 5Hz. Don't worry about the 120Hz hpf, it's not really a hpf it's a crossover for PA duty.

Definitely a GK Microbass Fusion.

If you decide that you occasionally could benefit from more power then pick up a used Behringer power amp or something for under £200. You're still way under the TH500 budget! I think you'd be surprised how far 350W will go though. :-)

GK Microbass for a combo? I find the slim front-to-back dimension makes it a very easy one handed carry. Like a briefcase. If you want seperates though I use a Microbass head with a Barefaced Midget. So on that basis a massive +1 for everyone who's suggesting the MB200 and Barefaced one10.

Possible. Likely even. Easy enough to try though? The way to think of these things is this: How's your DI box/pedal preamp [i]designed[/i] to work? Something like a Sansamp is designed to output the XLR to the PA system and the 1/4" to the amp. In both cases you have a gain stage before the power amp. The PA system chain is designed to be sansamp > mixer > outboard gear > poweramp The bass amp chain is designed to be sansamp > bass amp preamp > bass amp power amp In both chains you've got some serious stuff going on before you hit the power amp. None of this means it won't work! None of this means it won't even be fine! It just means that if you're not using gear the way it was designed to be used you may run into some issues. In this case, what tends to happen is quite simple: anything that can be powered by a 9V battery doesn't have enough gain to properly power the rather serious power amps. Is this a rule? No! Does it mean you won't have a perfectly acceptable rig if you do this? No! This stuff is I think quite important if you are looking to buy some of this gear and you can't try it out beforehand. Maybe then you can worry about and learn all of the minutiae. If, on the other hand, you have the stuff and you fancy a play then just do it. It'll make a bass-shaped sound either way.

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1489418344' post='3256729'] needs to be a load box not a di but this is what i was saying you'd get the sound of your jcm not the svt sim of the vtdi [/quote] [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1489419614' post='3256750'] If it's going between the amp and the cab you don't need a load as the cab will still be acting as one. However check that the DI is capable of dealing with the current that a modern high-wattage bass amp is capable of producing at its speaker output. IME most of these devices are aimed at guitar amps with a 100W maximum rating. [/quote] Yes to both, no need for a load box or anything as the cab is still there. As for power ratings, I'm not sure how much faith I'd have in the [url="https://www.thomann.de/gb/millenium_die_dibox_passiv.htm"]£8.50 Millenium DI that advertises speaker inputs[/url], but I trust Countryman when they spec that the Type 85 can take almost 3000W. Definitely agree with BigRedX, check first and use common sense. The Marshall can't be more than 100W? Radial (one of THE names in DI boxes) do a speaker box that is rated for 300W, there are many others too.