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V4lve

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Everything posted by V4lve

  1. I replaced the electronics in my mm3 with an Artec SE2A Active EQ. Big improvement.
  2. Wondering if to get this, reduce it to the right length (by removing about 50mm off the blunt end) and then get it re-welded. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOUBLE-BAR-BASS-GUITAR-TRUSS-ROD-640mm-RD001-B-/190584088381?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c5fb2673d#ht_4684wt_1185"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOUBLE-BAR-BASS-GUITAR-TRUSS-ROD-640mm-RD001-B-/190584088381?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c5fb2673d#ht_4684wt_1185[/url] I have a vague memory (from a misspent education in engineering) of some treated steel being difficult to weld. Am i getting desperate or is this a sensible approach?
  3. Hi. Are you open to offers on this?
  4. Hi. Appears that the right length rod may be difficult to source. Now wondering what would happen if put one in that is slightly too short (e.g. 20mm). Looks like the old one only just makes it past the first fret anyway (remembering it goes in from the heel end).
  5. [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1322402398' post='1450345'] Replied. Stick a couple of bob in the BC coffre when you get it. [/quote]
  6. [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1322166627' post='1447560'] If you neaten up that hole into a nice rectangle and give me the dimensions I make you up a maple filler block and post it down to you. [/quote] You have a PM
  7. The Stew Mac one is way too big unfortunately and it seems the old rod left it's wrapping inside the neck (presumably it's stuck to the neck). The Slovak on is exactly the same dimensions so I was thinking I might try and install it without it's wrapping. Hopefully it will drift in OK. BTW. Dimensions are on their way.
  8. Anyone bought from these Slovakian guys? They are the only supplier of MM type (capstan nut) rods I can find. [url="http://shop.sollerguitars.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/102/products_id/1441standart--material/ns-580-mm.html"]http://shop.sollergu.../ns-580-mm.html[/url] The allen key type are no good cos there there isnt enough space at the heel end to get an allen key in.
  9. [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1322166627' post='1447560'] Well done... now put that fecking lump hammer away. [/quote] Hee hee. It's what we in the South West used to call a Bristol Screwdriver. [quote] If you neaten up that hole into a nice rectangle and give me the dimensions I make you up a maple filler block and post it down to you. [/quote] Wow. That's very kind of you. Woodworking is not a strong point for me. I am way better at making holes than things to go in holes. I will give you some numbers once I am happy with the hole.. [quote] Just a thought - now you have the t/r out, couldn't you just get someone to weld the snapped bit back together? [/quote] Problem is that the thread is snapped inside the first collar. I suspect it would be too hard to weld.
  10. This is the closest I can find. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No10b-Dual-type-bass-guitar-truss-rod-600mm-/140594136371#ht_500wt_969"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No10b-Dual-type-bass-guitar-truss-rod-600mm-/140594136371#ht_500wt_969[/url]
  11. Yay! Managed to get the rod out. Tried to remove the fingerboard but after 30 mins of repeated steaming with an iron I gave up. I notice now that I managed to crack the varnish a little so very glad I stopped. Slightly annoyed that I cut the veneer at the other end so that it would separate from the neck with the fretboard. But hey ho. Lessons learned. Will get back to that later. Decided to open her up at the back of the heel and try to drift the rod out. Used a hand wood drill to find the rod collar and drilled a few more holes further up the heel to provide a decent angle of attack. I first used a sledge on a small screwdriver behind the collar to drift the rod out of the heel. Then the sledge on a mole wrench around the exposed end. Took about an hour of steady hammering (with rests) to get it half way out then it just fell out. Couple of piccys. [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00627.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00627.jpg[/url] [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00628.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00628.jpg[/url] Now I need to find a replacement and see if I can drift the new one back in. It seems to be one of these [url="http://shop.sollerguitars.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/102/products_id/1441standart--material/ns-580-mm.html"]http://shop.sollergu.../ns-580-mm.html[/url] Havn't managed to find a UK supplier yet. But before that I need to tidy up the mess I made of the heel and see if I can patch it up with a block of maple (completely new ground for me). May resort to something else if that proves too difficult. The good thing is that it will be hidden so just needs to be tidy and structurally sound. Feeling better about this now.
  12. The iron option is not straightforward as the neck end of the board is trapped under the headstock veneer. [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00578.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00578.jpg[/url] I am now wondering if I might simply be able to pull it out. Assuming I can get a good purchase on it.
  13. OK. Just been to see the Luthier. He reckons 1. It's probably a double action truss rod. 2. The fretboard is probably too thick to steam off myself. 3. The best solution would be to rout down the back of the neck to remove and replace it, then put in a skunk stripe. 4. A DIY solution (assuming the neck is firewood) might be to take a chunk out of the back of the heel to expose the end of the rod and then try and pull or drift it out. I am considering perhaps drilling into the back the same dia as the truss rod groove to see what I can find.
  14. This makes it look really easy. OK, it's a steel guitar with a flat board but I am now wondering if a hair dryer might do the job.
  15. Thanks. Going to see a local luthier tomorrow (anyone heard of Sebastian Pecchia?) to get some advice on repairing it myself. Watch this space!
  16. Due to a broken truss rod (see earlier post) the neck is now off my OLP MM3. Thought I would check the straightness now it is at rest (no tension from strings or truss rod) and it has a definate bow. About at least 1mm of natural relief in the middle using the edge of a steel rule along the complete neck length. That doesnt feel right to me. What should i expect?
  17. Thanks again for all the advice. I have discovered a luthier lives just down the road so going to see him next week to get some advice. Will keep you all posted.
  18. Back to the repair idea. Presumably I only need to separate the Maple veneer from the fretboard and can leave the rest attached to the headstock? Will a steam iron hurt the lacquer?
  19. Blast. This looks like it is going to be a pain in the neck. Where would I get a replacement neck?
  20. Hi. Thanks, this is really helpful. It looks unfinished to me. Here are a few piccys [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00577.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00577.jpg[/url] [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00578.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00578.jpg[/url] [url="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00579.jpg"]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/133297/DSC00579.jpg[/url]
  21. Thanks for the quick reply. I may have to resort to the iron technique. Unless there is a way to unscrew the thing from the bust end. It's not to deep in but very difficult to get a purchase on. The fingerboard is maple but unfinished so probably no need to sand. Unfortunately the head end is varnished into the headstock. How would I prevent cracking the varnish when the board comes off??
  22. Hi, Just broken the truss rod on my OLP mm3. Been adjusting the relief carefully over the last few days and this morning it went bang. Have taken the neck off and the rod is snapped about half an inch from the body end (the end that it gets adjusted). It doesnt look that easy to get out. There is no access the other end. Can I do it myself or is this a luthier job? Gutted.
  23. Hi. My mate has found what appears to be and old Selmer Thunderbird 50 Mkii lurking in the corner of a studio he has recently become responsible for sorting out. It's pretty tatty and doesn't turn on but he had the sense to put it to one side. A bit of research suggests it is worth a bit so I think he is planning to sell it to fund some improvements (the studio is part of a local community project). Was wondering how best to go about getting it to the right kind of person for the right price. Ta
  24. [quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='837535' date='May 14 2010, 07:32 PM']Yep - just use whatever they've got - I think I paid around a quid for mine, but check the wires are soldered properly I had a few where I had to resolder them and as they fell off when I took them out of the bag. It sounds best with a preamp (behringer ADI-21 works well for me) and the shorter the cable the better. I used one of these little buggers: [url="http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3202"]http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3202[/url] I think I just went for biggest they had in stock at the time.[/quote] Ta.
  25. [quote name='Tait' post='837538' date='May 14 2010, 07:33 PM']pool cue?[/quote] Now that's an idea!
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