EssentialTension

[quote name='Hit&Run' post='748956' date='Feb 17 2010, 09:13 PM']1) Would I need a different guage to my preferred roundwound guage?[/quote] As suggested above, they may be a heavier gauge but then Thomastik Flats are fairly light gauge - I wouldn't myself be concerned about the gauge as such but whether I liked the feel of the strings because flats, like rounds, vary a lot. [quote name='Hit&Run' post='748956' date='Feb 17 2010, 09:13 PM']2) I recall reading about TIs being a bit 'looser' feeling than the taut LaBellas. If I were to get some LaBellas, would I need to lighten the guage accordingly?[/quote] La Bellas do several sets of flats of varying gauge but TIs only come in a single gauge. So you could go for the lightest La Bellas (760FL I think) if that's what suited you. The La Bellas are more of an old school sound compared to the quite middy TIs which, IME, are very good at cutting through. Nonetheless there's a variety of sounds available from both. [quote name='Hit&Run' post='748956' date='Feb 17 2010, 09:13 PM']3) LaBella and TI seem to predominate the choices of many players. Does anyone use any other flatwounds? I'd seen a couple of references to rotosound and status hotwires; is there any more info on these, or any other brands like Picato, Elites, GHS, D'Addario etc..[/quote] I used to be all TI but then I had a D'Addario Chromes phase, then Joe Osborn Lakland flats, and at the moment Pyramid Golds on two basses. It's an expensive business getting into flats but they do last along time.

Didn't Robert Moog design the active electronics? And didn't Entwistle have some interest until he decided he didn't like the bass?

[quote name='tubepigeon' post='746716' date='Feb 15 2010, 11:54 PM']The first is an Epiphone Rivoli. I've dated it via the serial number and it's from 1955, and on the little sticker inside the body (from what I can make out) it says 'Style BBV 232' Not sure what the significance of that is? Nothing has been changed, the bass is in original condition.[/quote] I don't think the Rivoli was introduced until 1961(ish) - so if it is a 1955 it's extremely rare!!! And I think EBV232 was the code for a sunburst Rivoli; EBV232N for natural.

[quote name='fatback' post='747220' date='Feb 16 2010, 01:48 PM'][quote name='EssentialTension' post='746648' date='Feb 15 2010, 10:50 PM'] How about some pics? SELMER TREBLE 'N' BASS 50 SV [/quote] wow forgot about those things. Had one before I gigged. pure nostalgia [/quote] Nostalgia yes, but I don't wish i still had it.

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='744933' date='Feb 14 2010, 04:24 PM']Hofner Artist Bass Selmer Treble 'n' Bass 50 watt Selmer 4x12" I wish I still had the Hofner.[/quote] How about some pics? HOFNER ARTIST BASS SELMER TREBLE 'N' BASS 50 SV SELMER THUNDERBIRD 100W COMBO (the amp had been removed from mine)

[quote name='Pete Academy' post='746441' date='Feb 15 2010, 08:13 PM'][...] but I think you learn much more by playing gigs.[/quote] It was at a gig that I learned that I should have practised.

I can use 1fpf in the lower positions if I have to but I'm a much better and less stressed player when I use Simandl. In higher positions I'll move to 1fpf. The changeover region will vary but usually somewhere between frets 3 & 7 depending on the line being played. I do much the same on a fretless too. I guess if your hand and fingers were the appropriate length and shape then 1fpf all over could be fine but it won't be fine for everyone.

Hofner Artist Bass Selmer Treble 'n' Bass 50 watt Selmer 4x12" I wish I still had the Hofner.

[quote name='funkle' post='744446' date='Feb 14 2010, 01:13 AM']I enjoy this instrument more and more! It's great 'stock', and inexpensive enough that I don't feel bad about modding it a bit more to suit my tastes.[/quote] Mine is still wearing Pyramid Black Nylons but now also sports a pair of Wizard 64s - it's sounding good - and a white pearl pickguard. I've been considering some Hipshot Lollipop tuners.

Yes, been said many a time ... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=77129"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=77129[/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=69033"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=69033[/url] ... but it can't be seen too often.

I had one too but fivers aren't for me - or at least that one wasn't, because I found the string spacing too tight. However, a great range of sounds available such that I could be tempted by a G&L L2000.

I'd say they are nickels too.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='743493' date='Feb 12 2010, 08:50 PM']Great clip! [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=69033"]We dun it a little while ago, too...[/url][/quote] I thought we might have done it before but I ineptly failed to find it after several searches so there we are ... and anyway I was excited by clip.

Thanks, very interesting.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='707537' date='Jan 10 2010, 11:59 AM']Thinner pick, faster pace! I have done this before and you can get upto some very fast speeds. Awesome fun and once you pair it with a fast fretting hand it looks impressive. Thicker pick, more meaty tone but difficult to go incredibly fast.[/quote] I don't mean to deny your experience and I rarely play with a pic but I would expect a thicker stiffer pick to be faster than a thinner more flexible pick.

[quote name='Doddy' post='742247' date='Feb 11 2010, 04:27 PM']I play a lined fretless and have noticed that by playing right on the line you will be out of tune. In the lower positions you should be slightly in front of the line,while high up the neck you should be slightly behind.[/quote] I'm using an unlined Precision now but when I had a lined Jazz I noticed this same thing - Gary Willis refers to it on his website too. There have been a couple of threads on BC where I asked if anyone could explain why this was the case but no one seemed to have an answer and others denied that it was so.

[quote name='jamesbass116' post='732152' date='Feb 1 2010, 08:15 PM']-Play it like a fretted bass. i.e - don't go sliding up and down to the notes because it's possible to do so.[/quote] I'd say this is a really good tip for getting started on fretless - practice doing on the fretless what you can already do on fretted - it's certainly what I did. Having said that, the slide can help in finding the intonation when simply jumping to the note can be slightly off.

[quote name='500/1bassman' post='740260' date='Feb 9 2010, 06:50 PM']Dont bother with anything other than Hofner H1133B !! 45-105 .I have a 62 reissue 500/1 ,i've tried Rotosund Jazz flatwounds (too light) & Pyramid Gold (good second choice) but nothing else fit's ,sound's & feel's like the real thing!.They are expensive (£47.00 )and not many dealers keep them,i buy mine from Thomann who are very good.Believe me as a lifelong Beatle man it will save you in the long run.[/quote] +1 - Hofner Beatle Bass or Pyramid Gold Beatle Bass.

Don't some Hofners have zero frets?

I've always had [b]excellent service from GAK[/b], especially from [b]Mark (mark_random on BC) in the bass department[/b]. Although, IIRC, Mark's off for the next few weeks.

[quote name='riff raff' post='739309' date='Feb 8 2010, 07:37 PM']when was the last original stuff released by the who?[/quote] 2006

[quote name='Mike' post='739184' date='Feb 8 2010, 05:50 PM']It's not just the Americans...[/quote] ... or the twelve year olds ...

[quote name='BarnacleBob' post='737609' date='Feb 6 2010, 08:53 PM']I have often considered getting a 62 P then I remember I dont have 5 grand[/quote] I have often considered getting a 52 P then I remember I dont have 50 grand ...

[quote name='Deep Thought' post='737933' date='Feb 7 2010, 11:24 AM']... the bottom, which I happen to think is a splendid example.....[/quote] Agreed, very splendid.