
Bottle
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Everything posted by Bottle
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[quote name='fluffo' timestamp='1327998868' post='1519952'] any news on this cab yet [/quote] Haven't had much chance to work on it - pending house move is taking up all my time Rest Assured, I should have some time this week(end) to delve in more detail - I'll keep everyone posted Thanks for the interest in the cab! Ian
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[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1327332629' post='1509448'] Thanks Ian, yes have tried screwing it down - neck pickup is almost at scratchplate level, where the bridge is much higher. Measured the impedance etc. They were originally a matched set of Wizard '74s - custom wound after a long conversation with Alan. When I changed to 70s spacing the problem became more so, I spoke to Alan again and he wound me a new bridge pickup that was fatter than the neck one to compensate. It has worked a bit but still not 100%. So I thought that by dialling in a bit of the neck I would get the boom back [/quote] Crikey! Well, I'm glad we're both of like minds hehehehe sounds like you've tried just about everything else I would have suggested anyway It seems to be an inherent 'problem' with Jazz basses (much as I love 'em), with the VVT or VBT arrangement - there's a big mid-scoop when both pickups are full- or half-on etc, and going to a series-only arrangement does work wonders, plus its hum-cancelling without any messing around. I did see a schematic or something similar on the Duncan website for a three-position blade switch when hooked up to a humbucker, which had a parallel 3k3 bleed resistor when in 'single-coil' mode - just substitute the 'North' and 'South' coils for the neck and bridge pickups - this might be the route to bass happiness Hope you get there fella Ian
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Electrical question about Markbass SA450, SD800 and SD1200
Bottle replied to far0n's topic in Amps and Cabs
[quote name='far0n' timestamp='1327331135' post='1509410'] Why is the SA450 a class A/B amp, yet the more powerful ones are class D ? Is there some electrical reason why the more powerful ones aren't A/B also ? Heat possibly ? I don't know ! Ta. [/quote] Pretty much spot-on! Also power supply requirements are smaller for class D as it is more efficient etc - class AB is not as efficient and requires a larger power supply compared with a class D of equivalent output power, and hence weight savings, or more room to shoe-horn more power into a given space etc HTH, Ian -
[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1327330171' post='1509382'] Thanks guys, the reason the switch I currently have (like the Dingwall you describe Bottle, but in a different order) isn't quite right is that I am having trouble with a drop in bass frequencies when I use the bridge pickup alone. I have tried replacing the bridge pickup and checked wiring etc. The bridge pickup sounds great, just no bass! Andy at Wizard has re-wound the pickup to make it fatter and it was suggested I roll in a bit of the neck pickup in to add bass. trouble is, with a switch i can't do this. I guess what I'm looking for is a blend pot that has a centre detent as well as detents at 1/4 and 3/4 the way around. The series mod is OK but to be honest the volume jumps so much I rarely use it these days (it was handy for a solo etc. before I had a boost pedal). [/quote] Mmmmmm this might sound like a bit of a suck-eggs moment, but have you considered that the [i]neck[/i] pickup may just be a little too hot? Have you tried maybe screwing it down a little, as that may help with the volume balance between neck and bridge pickups. One other tip might be a set of matched pickups from Wizard if you let them know what you're trying to achieve, or a set of Duncans - Classic Stack in the neck position and a Hot Stack in the bridge position - this would have the additional benefit of being hum cancelling in all switch positions as they are inherently humbuckers. Ian
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I can see this being do-able but, really have to ask myself if this is a lot of hassle, for what I can see to be of maybe little benefit. May I ask why you found that the four-position switching wasn't enough? Dingwall offer the 'super switch' which is essentially the same as your arrangement (both series - neck only - bridge only - both parallel), which I would see as possibly the most versatile - as Alex Claber pointed out in his build thread, everything else from there on in is technique i.e. right-hand playing position etc. Another option could be to explore replacing the rotary switch with a centre-off switch that cuts either coil and leaves them in series in the centre (off) position, like the Gibson Les Paul toggle switch (neck/both/bridge) HTH, Ian
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[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1326749169' post='1501584'] Got a Dimarzio Will Power for the purpose. I run two outputs and two rigs and go for a entirely different thing to Billy Sheehan. [/quote] That'll do it, fella [quote name='Grant' timestamp='1326788055' post='1501812'] Not black enough. Headstock needs to be black too, with a silver decal. It will look awesome. Then you will truly be the Prince Of Darkness... [/quote] Hehehehe
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[quote name='spinynorman' timestamp='1326724095' post='1501002'] A while ago I bought an Audio Technica ATM710, without any very clear idea what I was going to do with it. Are there any (dis)advantages to using condenser mics in live situations? We're a guitar + bass + drums + female vocal pop/rock band in mostly smallish pub venues, currently using SM58s. Our mixer can deliver phantom power, but it's only switchable on channel pairs. So I'd have an SM58 on a channel with phantom power switched on. Any problem with that? [/quote] No problem with using most dynamics with phantom power - they'll just ignore the volts across the coil. Won't make any difference. Spec's for the ATM-710 are [url="http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/resource_library/literature/95f5b9aa614aebf6/atm710_submit.pdf"]here[/url] if that helps - it's a cardioid polar pattern mic with excellent rear rejection, and a fairly narrow angle of acceptance , so pretty handy for vocal work. There is a pronounced hump at 5k and another at around 12k, looking at the frequency plot, so worth watching out for on female vocals, but I can't see any real issue (caveat here! more experienced engineers can chime in here ) HTH, Ian
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I've got this now on my EBS 4x10 - bit embarrassing when someone comes to have a noodle through it in anticipation of a sale Had the speaker grille off and think I've tracked it down to the top-right speaker, so will have to try the tips out above - it seems to be worse with the 'E'-string around the 5th fret (A), plus/minus a tone/couple of frets, although I've run the cab off of my CD player and power amp, using the Alan Parsons Soundcheck CD, it's useful for spot freqs (50Hz and 63Hz seem the worse), plus using the uncompressed 'Bass Guitar' track - I can definitely hear the rattle. Ta, Ian
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[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1326592963' post='1499393'] Think might have to add a mudbucker. [/quote] Sweet idea - might I suggest a Wilkinson humbucker and string with flats? My Vintage 'ray copy sounds pretty muddy/dubby with one of those in. Switching arrangements - well, a centre-off toggle with both pickups in series should get you there - with each switch position cutting one of the pickups Sort of like this: [attachment=97462:foxen_mudbucker_wiring.pdf] HTH, Ian
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Ooooh I might actually be able to make one this year! Woohoo! Please let me know re: venues and dates etc. Ta muchly, Ian
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[quote name='jackers' timestamp='1325520074' post='1483894'] hey, i don't suppose you would know how this compares to an ashdown mibass do you? [/quote] Afraid not my friend, I haven't had any experience with any Ashdown products so wouldn't be able to offer a direct comparision. There's not a lot of clips on YouTube with the GK head either, but I can tell you it worked very well with the EBS cabs I had - bags of power on tap into 4-Ohms, and no hint of farting out, even when pushed. Keeps clean well, and the second (footwitchable) channel can do 'drive' or 'boost' really well HTH, Ian
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