Deedee

Very happy to start a feedback thread for Rickytwo. I purchased a rather lovely amp which was exactly as described. Great communication throughout and the seller couldn't have been more helpful. Trade with confidence. Many thanks again

Best way is to take the lid off and see if there's a label showing a date on the board. The older ones usually do. EDIT - I think I just posted at exactly the same time as WHUFC above

I'll certainly get it done at some point. I'm a big fan of the SMX and used to have several of these in various guises (see pic). I still have one as my main workhorse plus another incoming, plus my MkIV AH250 and now this one for spares/repair so there's no great rush at the moment.

Many thanks. I’m useless with electronics so it’s probably not something I’d attempt myself. EDIT - Although now I can see on the image that they’re just plug in, even I may be able to manage that 😂. For the record the unit powers up. All the switch lights work and all the knobs and sliders feel solid and secure. It’s just that there’s no sound from it. I’ll take the lid off my other SMX (same model) and compare and contrast.

I’ve just purchased a ‘spares or repair’ AH250 GP12 SMX, purely because it was local, has all the correct (hens teeth) buttons, knobs and switches and sports an unmarked faceplate. Anyhoo, opened the case up to have a nosey (not that I know what I’m looking at) and there’s a post-it note in there that says: Requires TR1, TR2 plus output rebuild. Does anyone know what that means exactly and whether it’s as big a job as it sounds? I’m not fussed either way as I bought it for spares should I ever need them, but I must admit to being very curious. Thanks

Watched the Stewart Copeland episode last night and really enjoyed it. Can’t wait for the Tina Weymouth instalment.

I think you're on the right lines with the folding down option i.e. place the starting ‘seam’ underneath (hidden), wrap the tolex around the main body of the case and then fold in as necessary. If you were using edging strips along all corners/edges then perhaps a sheet per side would be the better option. I’m mindful that you may have completed this project by now as it’s been a while since you posted. I did attempt this myself once with a Trace case using suitable tolex but it was a disaster (think bubbles)! However, the Marshall (elephant skin) stuff covers a multitude of sins. A mate of mine very kindly completed my project using it and it looks great.

Very happy to start a feedback thread for bloodandtearsuk. James purchased a cab from me. Prompt payment and great communication throughout. Trade with confidence 👍 All the best

😂 I don’t think so but I could be wrong. I’m sure they were called Bestwood Ethel (we were called Nobody’s Fault).

Players Sports and Social Club, Nottingham, 1991. I think we played 5 songs supporting a band called ‘Bestwood Ethel’. We weren’t great but it was fun 😂 EDIT - I pretty sure I was playing an Epiphone Powerbass, purchased from a catalogue iirc

Just sold a bass to Grant. Prompt payment and great communication throughout. Another seamless transaction. Trade with confidence 👍 Many thanks

What he said 😁

Do you know, I realised afterwards that this may not be a joke. Back issues are no fun. Apologies 🙄

Ah understood. Hope you get sorted.

Is it to replace a faulty original plate? I only ask as the plate on my Sterling had a hairline crack in it. I contacted Strings & Things and they ordered a replacement from Ernie Ball (about £16). Only issue is that they do obviously require the old plate back. Once they receive the original plate back the records at EB are updated for that bass with it's new serial number.

Welcome