Martin E

Yes, I'd call it R&B as I used to understand it, but as an old fart myself I don't know what R&B means these days.

Appreciate the recommendations. A couple of chums suggested Armstrong Pickups in Ashford, I had to get this sorted so have sent it there, a reasonably quick turnaround as well. I will report if I have any problems. Thanks

I have a P bass pickup with one coil open circuit. Hopefully not a complete rewind. Who are the recommended repairers these days please? Anyone in my neck of the woods in West Sussex especially? Grateful of any advice. Thanks

The biggest factor which changes the sound for me is the venue you play in. The sound varies so much from gig to gig that choice of instrument, amp and cab is sometimes almost irrelevant. Mainly decided by which corner or nook you and your gear happen to be jammed in whilst playing.

Yes exactly, hence my query. I was searching for a Gotoh 203 which threw up their website, a good price too...

http://thebassshop.co.uk/

Just found this company on the web selling parts and accessories. Has anyone any experience of dealing with them please?

Cameltoe, you've been really unlucky there, these things are highly stressed at the best of times but you tackled it in the best way you could by adjusting in small increments. Interested to hear what a luthier recommends though as suggested a second hand neck on here may be a more cost effective alternative. Regarding shims, as Luke FRC says they are no big deal. Remember Fender's own micro tilt system was effectively just a variable shim. However no micro tilt adjustment or shim will improve a bowed neck unfortunately. A bad start to the new year for you, let us know how you get on.

Removing or moving the shim will not solve your problem. Are you sure your truss rod is adjusted correctly? Buzzing at the high frets and your description of string heights would indicate too much neck relief. Having adjusted that correctly the overall action will change and the reason for the shim may become apparent as your bridge adjustment may move out of it's normal range of operation.

Bought a set of machine heads off Dave. Easy to deal with and good communication, even offered me my money back if not satisfied. Arrived promptly and securely packed. Top man.

More a case of practicality perhaps? Having neatly packed your amp in bubble wrap and found a nice box to fit you then realise you have this odd shaped lumpy thing to include as well. Just a note in your ad saying power lead excluded for ease of packing explains all.

As a function band we inevitably have to play Sex On Fire and I am ashamed to admit that we are quite capable of cocking up the timing between guitar. bass and drums at the start. It sorts itself out after the first chorus but it has a certain feel to it which we either get just right or at the end of a long set sometimes not...

Indeed a shame to hear that John, I've read nothing but positive reviews so far. They do those models in cream with a tort pick guard and they really look the part. Definitely on my short list, they have them in Guitar Guitar down south as well and I'm going to try one out shortly. Hopefully they send all the duff ones to Glasgow...

Without seeing one in the flesh, what is the black decoration at the bottom of the headstock? Just black paint under the varnish or an additional piece of wood? Hard to tell in the photos.

Hamfist Thanks for such a speedy and comprehensive reply and your time I helped my son do a Strat body a few years ago and used Halfords paint if I recall. It covered a sanded and prepped gloss varnished body quite well but was not very durable and started to wear off after a while. I have a P bass body I am hoping to tackle next so your reply is very helpful. Cheers Martin

That looks fantastic, what a nice colour. Interested in your comments regarding Plastikote as I'm about to embark on a similar project. If you have a moment grateful if you could briefly give a bit more info on preparation, priming, drying time etc and how many coats/cans of paint it took. Thanks a lot

That'll be the miniature lead acid battery...

Paul - that is a neat little bit of kit. I'll have a look at one of those as well. The earlier one always seemed a bit clunky to me.

Thanks a lot chaps - just the info I wanted to hear. I'm a bit of an old buffer myself but never quite understood what it means with pedals, however it sounds true bypass is the way to go for battery life.

So far I've managed to get through my entire playing career without using a floor pedal type tuner. I am invariably cramped on stage and hate things under my feet but I now have need of such a device and am looking at a Korg Pitchblack or similar. To avoid any more clutter I would like to run this exclusively by battery. My question is when switched off and in bye pass mode do these things draw any current at all? Korg says battery life is 5 hours continuous use. If the thing is using current even when in byepass mode I could be replacing the battery every other gig. I gather the input jack also acts as an on/off switch which may suggest power is being used even when bypassed? Hence my question.

My pet hate is sellers using the phrase 'I just want to get back what I paid for it'. If selling an amp for example my immediate thought would be - well you say you've had it for two years, so done maybe fifty gigs with it and countless rehearsals and now you have the audacity to say you want your money back. This also implies that the seller having had two years of use and wear and tear of this item would normally be selling at an increased price but in fact is doing us a favour 'just' asking to get back what they paid for it. OK, rant over, I know you can look at this from an entirely different angle but personally I'd never reply to such an ad because rightly or wrongly puts me off straight away.

Take yourself off to your nearest car supermarket. You can crawl around dozens of different makes armed with a tape measure and notepad and no one will hassle you. Go with an open mind and you may get some surprises. Not just the volume but how easy is access, do the doors open fully, do the seats fold easily to give a flat surface etc. I found that a very worthwhile trip when I changed my car recently.

Yes I made a copy of my TE 15" cabinet but in thinner ply instead of MDF using the same speaker and ports. Even with some internal bracing and wadding it was much lighter and sounded just the same. I noted that there would have been little to gain by replacing the driver which was not that heavy anyway and only a fraction of the whole weight of the cabinet.