Chopthebass

I have had my GK 1001 head a long time and like the rest of you I get tempted by new gear! The Darkglass Microtubes 900 caught my eye. Has anyone compared against GK? The only Class D I have owned was Epifani, and I thought it was a bit meh. Do Darkglass rate their amps accurately or do they use magic fairy watts like Behringer?

wonder if they still use Behringer watts

IMO the design doesn't flow nicely, and it needs more contouring. It just looks to slabby!

what is ART top? Looks great!

I had an Overwater with a flat board (thanks Owen) and loved the feel. So much so that all my current builds all have zero radius.

Very nice! With nice prices too!

I think Clover make a three pup bass.

Beautiful! I am curious why the slot behind the truss rod spoke wheel needs to be there.

I would have thought those settings would be pretty bright. Maybe give us some more info.. Type of bass you use, what strings, and what cabs.

Hi gang, Does anyone have a PDF of flying V bass dimensions? Usually I can find something on the web. Not this time! Hope someone can help. Thanks

And I wonder if the amps will sound less Ampeggy!!

That head looks lost on it!

The horn is already connected by its own two wires. I did put a meter on the four wires, and the blacks are connected at the crossover and so are the whites. So I think if I connect each pair of drivers in series (16 ohm) and then connect a black/white to each pair this should work.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a Mesa Powerhouse 4x10? I bought an empty one and cant figure out the wiring. There are two black and two white wires coming from the crossover. I totally understand series and parallel wiring, and I was expecting just two wires from the crossover. I know its a longshot, but worth a try! Thanks

I'd be keen to know whether there is a difference to the listening audience. I have only ever had ported cabs and the extent of my knowledge is that the air movement from the port makes my trousers flap. I hope Bill Fitz can give a good simple explanation.

Mine took a 5 x 5 ft sheet of ply each. The decent Baltic birch 15mm ply. Mine cost me about $450 each in materials, so that's about 250 pounds. They are astonishing cabs (with the right driver). I sold my GK 115RBH and 410RBH because these perform better than those, in all departments! I used 3012HO drivers (I think 400 watts each). I used Eminence BGH-25 horn and built the recommended crossover. I do have to back off my treble because the clarity is astounding.

Well said Dan

I use ABM on mine (check my avatar). Their stuff is very expensive though. ETS makes the best quality hardware in my opinion, and their headless system has a nice headpiece with a pre drilled hole for truss rod adjustment. I had to drill my ABM ones to do the same thing. That was a scary moment!

Don't rule out others. The Bill Lawrence P-46 is fantastic. It has an odd number of poles that make it suitable for 5 string too. Check out reviews.

I have been tempted to see what all the fuss is about with Sire basses. For the money they seem like a no-brainer. There are lots of threads about poor tuners and control knobs. I think Mr Miller was involved with spec'ing the basses?

I had a Thumb through neck and whilst it looks pretty cool, the neck dive made it very tiring to play. And like you I play it quite high up. I was looking for a Streamer Stage II 5 string for ages but never came across a good used one. Expensive now too!

I built a Simplexx 15, one of Bill's designs. It is very, very good.

Shame it doesn't extend to Canada. I am still in two minds whether or not to take a chance on one!

Don't know much about Line 6 stuff. Is it meant to be a bass amp too? I doubt the speakers will be up to bass.

I run a 1001RB head into two BFM Jack 12 cabs. I sold my 410RBH and 115RBH cabs because they couldn't compete! Anyways, a very loud, punchy head with a great EQ. It must be my ears because I don't find the boost makes a loot of difference to the sound other than making it louder. I also have 400RB and 2001RB head.