Chopthebass

So how much will one of these basses cost now?

Perhaps when their profit margins increase they could invest in some radius cutting router bits and do something more interesting with that body shape!

Some argue that the woofer/tweeter arrangement leaves a gap in the crucial midrange frequencies, particularly with a 15" & tweeter. Can't comment coz I've never had or tried a three-way cab.

[quote name='Chopthebass' post='106852' date='Dec 20 2007, 07:53 AM']wedight[/quote]

I mean 'weight' !!

Hi,
I had a Hartke 7000 head (350w + 350w) and their 215XL and 4.5XL cabs. If it wasn't for the wedight I'd still have it. It was absolutely awesome. Especially in bi-amp mode. Even though the 215 was 4-ohms and the 4.5 was 8-ohms, there was no detrimental effect as a result. If your back can handle it, and you are able to fit the rig in your wheels, then I'd recommend it 100%

Ian

I've heard that the Heart Rock head is a corker. Especially now its been upgraded and goes down to 2.6 ohms (1000w). That was next on my list below my DB750, which I've just bought! There aren't many decent amps that go down to 2 ohms, although manufacturers are catching on.

For what its worth I had a Thumb 5-string, and it was the worst bass for neck dive I've ever played. I sold it for that reason. Also I didn't think the MEC pickups and circuit were all that. Give the bass a try if you can - see what you think.

Add 3, and a half finished bass =

923.5

Thomann do them for £1500, and they are usually the cheapest. Using the two-thirds rule, I wouldn't pay more than £1000.

Out of interest, have you tried one? Any good?

[quote name='Bigwan' post='106367' date='Dec 19 2007, 09:58 AM']Will there still be a Thunderfunk 800 Robbie? I'd read something on Talkbass about an 800watt 2ohm capable Thunderfunk on the way.[/quote]

I'd be keen to know aswell.

[quote name='HarryPotter' post='104608' date='Dec 15 2007, 09:54 AM']Thanks bud.

If I oil the neck, can I still apply decals to the headstock?

If so do I oil first or after or both (in relation to applying the decal)?

Also whats a good way to seal the body do that it can be painted with car body paints?

TIA[/quote]


Halfords do a really good filler-primer that completely fills the wood grain, ready for undercoating. Also, DM Guitars in Rayleigh Essex do Nitro spray cans in tinted lacquer.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='104105' date='Dec 13 2007, 09:55 PM']How would you compare the Aguilar to a Mesa Boogie 400+ for example?[/quote]


Never tried a Mesa 400+. Something I've always wanted to do, until I felt the weight of the thing! The DB is heavy, but the MB is worse. Yes, the GK and DB are like chalk and cheese. It was just my view that the GK sounds 'modern' and the DB doesn't. I guess it's the valves.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='104058' date='Dec 13 2007, 08:28 PM']From what I've read, the Aguilars are fairly modern sounding, which I suspect is fairly removed from the lo-fi grind that the Ampeg SVT CL I once gigged through sounded like.[/quote]


I've just bought a DB750 and in my opinion it's no way modern sounding. I've got a GK1001 head also, and that most definitely is. I've never been a fan of distorted bass, so never been tempted with Ampeg valve gear! I was in The Gallery yesterday and got Alex to demo the Laney mega expensive valve head and the matching 8x10, and I guess it's their attempt at a rival to the SVT. I hope the Ampeg is nothing like this Laney head - coz it was pants!

Mr Flanker,

I have one, and you are welcome to come to Leigh-on-Sea to try.

Cheers
Ian

Apparently this bass has been for sale for a few months and has appeared for sale in Barking and Amsterdam. At this bargain price it should have sold ages ago. I guess its someone trying some brainless scam with possible pics of someone elses bass? Its funny how communication ceased when I mentioned about getting the bass inspected and authenticated!

Bugger.

[quote name='Sibob' post='102861' date='Dec 11 2007, 07:44 PM']I would say 2 £shedloads!!

Unless the guy doesn't know what he's got, which might perhaps be the case if its been in the cupboard for 40 years, but that really is to good to be true!

Good luck
Si[/quote]



Hi Si.
I'm thinking the same thing. Still you never know. Its not unheard of for these finds cropping up. Fingers crossed!

Ian

Here are some pretty low res picture of the bass. Its hard to see any detail.
The case is alleged to be original. Should a 63 jazz have block inlays?
Does the bass look right? The logo? I'll be going on the Fender Forum site, but if anyone has any comments please let me know!
Thanks, Ian

Thanks mate.

[quote name='BB2000' post='102456' date='Dec 10 2007, 10:49 PM']Seriously - ask at the FDP. There may well be Fender experts lurking on this forum who can advise, but there certainly are on the FDP.[/quote]


What does the FDP stand for? Sorry, I'm a bit of a Fender novice!
Please give me as much info as poss. Many thanks, Ian

The 5-strings in my avatar ar 34" scale, and to be honest its equally as good as the low B on my 35" Lakland 55-94.

Crikey mate, a 35' (foot) scale!!

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='102435' date='Dec 10 2007, 10:35 PM']Hello!

In anyone aware of any UK luthiers who do fretboard coating? There's a few in the US, but I don't want to send my neck overseas if I don't have to...

Ta![/quote]


How does epoxy finished last with roundwounds? I guess it still marks?

I've never heard of this treatment. I've used epoxy for truss rods & graphite reinforcing, but I should imagine its quite hard to apply to a radiused fingerboard, as the epoxy 'settles' and will run away from the centre of the fingerboard. Do this make any sense?! I know what I'm trying to say!

Just want to say I had one of these, 36" scale 5-string P3, and it was a gem, so it deserves a BUMP!!!

Thanks Guys. I'm expecting some photos soon. I don't know a great deal about vintage Fenders, but I know there are variations in the logos, finishes, machineheads. I'll seek your comments again, when I get the pics, if you don't mind. I always expect the worst, and if something sounds too good to be true, then it usually is. Who keeps a Jazz bass locked away for the last 40 years? I'm hoping this is going to be one of those lucky finds! Fingers crossed.

Cheers

Hi

I'm looking for a Fender expert!!
I have the chance to buy a Pre-CBS Jazz Bass with a serial number L36363 & original case. That's pretty much all I know. Can anyone tell me if that serial number seems correct for a Pre-CBS Jazz? Also, how much should I expect to pay?

Also, how do I go about getting it authenticated? I assume an expert needs to go and inspect the bass with me to verify its authenticity?

Thanks
Ian