LeftyJ

I don't want to make this more complicated for the topic starter, but I always thought it was only called a "bullet" on the so-called bullet truss rods on 1970s Fenders (which are actually bullet-shaped), and is called a truss rod "nut" on all other guitars and basses.

This! The pictures don't help much, to be honest. When you press the strings down at fret 1 and fret 14, how much clearance is left between the string and the frets at the highest point, and at what fret? This will help give an indication of just how convex the neck is.

They changed their headstocks after Fender threatened to sue. They used to have exact copies of the Fender headstock, but now they've more or less "reversed" the cutout. I'm not a fan either.

Warwick-branded tuners are surprisingly affordable, and pretty solid. When I wanted to replace the gold hardware on one of my Streamers with black I was pleasantly surprised by their prices. Thomann stocks them, and Warwick's own webshop is rather excellent too. Don't know if any UK suppliers do too.

Come to think of it, I think this might very well be your problem. If the output transformer of the Nordell is straining to provide more current than it is capable of (the 100mA limit per output) the output voltage may drop and this may cause your pedals to either not work, or for things to get damaged by underpowering them. Your power supply needs to provide a higher current than your pedals require, so they can draw as much from the output as they'll need. TC Electronics only specifies the minimum current rating, but not the maximum so it's hard to tell how many mA they'll draw at their peak. The switching power supply can also be an issue, as these often don't like mixed loads.

To be fair, so is a "Teambuilt", and even a "Masterbuilt", Warwick: they're CNC-routed, in standardised shapes with run-off-the-mill hardware and electronics. Of course there's a lot of attention to detail, and a lot of manual labour still goes into the fit and finish of each instrument. But in my opinion it really doesn't justify why they're so wickedly expensive. That Streamer Stage II posted above is to die for, but 4000 pounds? And this one is over 7000!

I quite like this demo by Nathan Navarro:

It looks huge in the video, with a fairly short upper horn. I wonder how far away that first fret on the low B is when playing that on a strap!

Lakland Jerry Scheff signature!

The Strandberg Boden basses are made in Indonesia as well, and much more expensive. In my opinion the Ibanez EHD makes the Boden bass more or less obsolete, unless you really want that EndurNeck. It would be cool of Ibanez did a Prestige version though.

I love Atlansia! The company is run by Nobuaki Hayashi, better known as H. Noble, who designed many iconic Matsumoku-era Aria Pro II guitars and basses like the famous SB series. I love his mad professor-approach to guitar building, constantly coming up with solutions to problems that don't exist, often completely ignoring ergonomics and userfriendliness but always beautifully engineered. He doesn't play guitar or bass himself, he got involved in guitar manufacturing when he was building wooden cabinets for Matsumoku sewing machines!

If it runs on an external power supply, it's very unlikely its outputs are fully isolated. All the 9V outputs probably run a common ground. Ideally you'll want a multi-tap transformer on the power supply itself, when going from 230V to 9V. The Nordell is a rebranded Joyo JP-02, which is sold under many names. It has an external switching power supply, and most definitely does not have isolated outputs. True electrical isolation requires a transformer with separate secondary windings for each output section and this is why the products from Voodoo Labs, T-Rex, and others are more expensive (and also why they are a bit bigger and heavier.) The T-Rex Fuel Tank Chameleon has a transformer with 5 independent secondary windings and 5 voltage regulators. The Joyo product in contrast has only 2 voltage regulators: One for all of the 9v outs and one for the 12v out. (The 18v out comes straight off the wall-wart voltage.) That would explain why more than one output failed at the same time. It only has some sort of short circuit protection. This site offers an excellent and rather in-depth comparison of most power supplies on the market today: https://stinkfoot.se/power-supplies I don't know enough about electronics to understand how it could have damaged your pedals. Your TC pedals require a minimum of 100mA, and the looper draws 94mA. The 9V outputs of the Nordell are 100mA each, so that should be just enough. The external power supply gives 18V at 1000mA.

That would be a certain mr Gary Willis, it comes stock on his signature Ibanez basses 🙂

New pickup arrived today, I installed it this evening and it sounds great. The bass is in perfect working order again. Thanks!

That guide is nice, and very useful if you're talking volume or regular tone pots. However, the C4H has an active EQ, and 100k audio taper pots are perfectly normal for an EQ knob because your on-board preamp alters the impedance of your signal, so the rating of your pots will need to match it. I wouldn't change the value, because it will either not work, or sound different.

Pretty ill-prepared

As a lefty, this is extra funny to me and something I've never given any thought! I have only once bought a bass from stock, because there usually simply weren't any. On the rare occasion I bought something totally new in a shop, it always had to be ordered for me and arrived untouched and boxed, at the risk of not liking it and having to sell it at a loss (or not buying it and losing my deposit). The one exception was an Esh Stinger I that I bought in a shop where the Lefty Bass Day was held. I had been coming there for 4 consecutive years and that very same bass had been there for all those years and it had intrigued me from the very first time I laid eyes (and hands!) on it. The last time the price had dropped by a lot because the shop was clearing stock to focus on amp building (CMS Music in Duisburg, Germany is no more, and is now Rheingold amplification). That said, I've never really thought of shop models as used or even secondhand. I think it's important to be able to try a bass out first, and pick the one that suits you best because it's something so personal! You just can't say "I like this one, so get me an identical one from your storage that hasn't been touched" because the new one could very well feel and sound different. I buy all my instruments used these days, often having them shipped to me without being able to try them out first. The lefty community is fairly small, so I often know the seller or other previous owners from different forums like this one. This will sometimes only add to how I feel about an instrument, and it builds trust

Wow, I wonder if those rules apply with shippers here as well. I received a Warwick Streamer LX just over a week ago from a private seller that was shipped in just its original gigbag, with a DHL label directly on the gigbag. The only form of additional protection added were two old t-shirts around the headstock to protect the tuning machines. I certainly wasn't expecting it shipped like that! But more importantly, I guess I (or the seller) got really lucky nothing happened to it during shipping, with all the steps involved in its logistics! According to DHL's track and trace site, tt was picked up by DHL at the seller's home address in the north of the Netherlands, then transported to DHL's central sorting hub on Zaventem airport in Brussels, Belgium before heading back to DHL's delivery hub in Amsterdam, the Netherlands and from there on in a delivery van to my work address in Gouda. DHL's proof of delivery claims it was delivered to me and that I signed for it in Amsterdam, strangely. Due to the current covid-19 measures, they don't take a signature and just ask for confirmation of your name (but to make it easy they just ask "Are you [add your name here]?" so anyone can say yes and accept your package).

That has to be one of the most beautiful Thumbs I've ever seen! That bubinga pommelé looks superb, and the dark ebony fingerboard really sets it off. Does it have matching ebony tuning knobs too?

I'll be watching this. I own a lovely Streamer LX5 (with two active MEC J pickups and 2-band EQ) that I've had for some 10 years now, and I love the lows but always felt the highs sound thin and overly agressive and the bass has a huge natural low mid scoop that I can't remedy with the onboard 2-band. It sounded great in my metal band where it had to punch through a very full mix with two 7-string guitars and quite a bit of keys, but it's pretty much useless for anything else. I also just bought a Streamer LX 4-string (with the regular MEC PJ pickups and 2-band) but have yet to find out how it sounds because I'm waiting on a new neck pickup for it that will be delivered to me later this week because the original one didn't work. I'm familiar with the OBP-3, I have one in an Ellio Martina Forza (basically a modern active 5-string Jazz) running on 18V. I agree with @acidbass about the bass frequency, it's only useful for cutting. The moment you boost the bass even slightly you're lost in the mix, especially on the low B-string.

Let's make it more fun by marking the ones we still own in bold More or less in alphabetical order: Aria Pro II SB-1000 (with two extra pickups added) Carvin B4 Carvin LB75 (flamed walnut) Carvin LB75 (all black - bought back out of sellers' remorse) Condor Jazz Bass Condor Jazz Bass (bought one back after regretting selling my first bass. The second one was awful) Cort Artisan B4 Cort NTL-B fretless acoustic Ellio Martina Forza 5 (The One Bass. I'll never sell this one) Ernie Ball Music Man Stingray5 Esh Stinger Fender Japan 57 Precision reissue Fender Japan 75 Jazz Bass reissue G&L USA SB-2 Hohner B2A Ibanez ATK300 Ibanez ATK300 tuned to D Ibanez ATK305 Ibanez RS924 Ibanez MC924 (1981) Ibanez MC924 (1983) Ibanez SR800LE Jan Bak Precision Bass Kydd Big Kydd EUB Longbow 2-string fretless Mr Bassman No Sweat (Human Base) Rickenbacker 4003 Sandberg Bullet 5 fretless Status S2 Classic bolt-on 4-string Status S2 Classic bolt-on 5-string Warwick Streamer LX4 Warwick Streamer LX5 Yamaha TRB5II amber Yamaha TRB5II trans blue All lefties obviously

Probably still better than Stevie Wonder's selfies with others.

For me the Amethyst Sparkle, but with chrome hardware. And I would have loved that Smoked Chrome if it had been a plain finish instead of a burst. I don't like the black edges.

Wingbass half-scale 5: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wing-Bass-5-Left-Handed-with-Strap-and-Gig-Bag/265015740750?hash=item3db42b494e:g:PYcAAOSwMa9gAijb

The cables go straight into the epoxy. The signal wire is a hot (core) with the ground as a sleeve around it, so I can't reach the core wire closer to the pickup. The red wire is the 9V +. I ordered a new one today through the Warwick webshop.