JackLondon

I think you're more after a boutique jazz bass rather then custom. Plenty of options on that as I believe almost any company has their take on the bass that I absolutely don't get. If you get it off the shelf it will also be much quicker than full custom build.

This [url="http://www.theunsignedguide.com/"]http://www.theunsignedguide.com/[/url]

I think that you should go with Barefaced Compact! Midget won't be enough!

Hello, my name is Jack, I play in a 4 piece band called Sugar For The House The info can be found here [url="http://www.myspace.com/sugarforthehouse"]http://www.myspace.com/sugarforthehouse[/url] altough we have parted ways with a singer and are looking for someone to replace her. Here's a video from when we played Jazz Cafe in London last year, Enjoy, Cheers Jack

If you want I can lend you mine to see if it suits you, however you'd have to pick it up from me in North London. Cheers Jack

[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Hand-Built-Fender-style-Bass-Guitar_W0QQitemZ150430988801QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar?hash=item230662ba01"]http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Hand-Built-Fend...=item230662ba01[/url]

Hopefully if I get a chance by the end of this week I should have something recorded with it as there's few ideas I need to send off to my guitarist anyway

Aguilar GS 212 - 70lbs - £569 [url="http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.php?product_id=100&category_id=2"]http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.ph...p;category_id=2[/url] Aguilar DB 212 - 70lbs - £679 [url="http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.php?product_id=90&category_id=2"]http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.ph...p;category_id=2[/url] GK Neo 212 - 50.5lbs - £499 [url="http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.php?product_id=287&category_id=2"]http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.ph...p;category_id=2[/url] GK Neo 410 - 68lbs - £699 [url="http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/82548"]http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/82548[/url] Eden D410 - 98lbs - around £900 Bergantino 410 - 85lbs - £859 [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Bergantino_Bass_Cabinet_HS_Range.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_sp...t_HS_Range.html[/url] Genz Benz NEOX212 - 52lbs - £699 [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Genz_Benz_Neox_Cabs.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_sp..._Neox_Cabs.html[/url] EBS Neo 212 - 53lbs - £781 [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/EBS_Neoline_212.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_sp...eoline_212.html[/url] MarkBass 104HR - 56lbs - around £850 MarkBass 104HF - 66lbs - around £850 SWR golight 410 - 56lbs - £959 [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/SWR_GoLight.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_sp...WR_GoLight.html[/url] Epifani UL210 - 38lbs - £630 [url="http://www.thebassgallery.com/product_details.cfm?ID=187&type=Bass"]http://www.thebassgallery.com/product_deta...7&type=Bass[/url] Cabinet Epifani UL310 - 47lbs - £710 [url="http://www.thebassgallery.com/product_details.cfm?ID=183&type=Bass"]http://www.thebassgallery.com/product_deta...3&type=Bass[/url] Cabinet Epifani UL410 - 57 lbs - £799 [url="http://www.thebassgallery.com/product_details.cfm?ID=182&type=Bass"]http://www.thebassgallery.com/product_deta...2&type=Bass[/url] Cabinet Hartke HD410 - 68lbs - £499 [url="http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/75521"]http://www.guitarampkeyboard.com/en/75521[/url] Warwick WCA411 - 58lbs - around £700 Yes they are expensive but if you want light cabs you have to pay for it which really begs a questions what's the point of a lightweight and cheap ''powerful'' amp when you have to spend 3 times as much on a cab to get anything out of it. I'm not here to argue but I've played through the LG on a gig and it doesn't cut it IMO.

Get a Barefaced Compact. ''Shameless Plug'' [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=82783"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=82783[/url] ''Shameless Plug''

[quote name='richrips' post='796469' date='Apr 5 2010, 12:34 PM']how many 4 ohm cabs are rated at over 500w??[/quote] Aguilar GS 212 and DB 212, GK Neo 212 and 410, Eden D410, Bergantino 410, Genz Benz NEOX212, EBS Neo 212, MarkBass 104HR and HF, SWR golight 410, Epifani UL 210, 310, 410, Hartke HD410, Warwick WCA411 - all of this are not ''monsters'' and are normal typical cabs used by many people on this forum. And that's just to name a few, I think you'll notice that more cabs are rated at 500W than you think. The problem with Ashdowns LG is they can't be bridged ( as it was with superfly) so until you get 4Ohm cabs you don't get the full power out of the amp. Simples as the meerkat would say

[quote name='davidmpires' post='796836' date='Apr 5 2010, 06:54 PM']I did think about that, but I'm a bit straped for cash at the moment, with a wedding coming up, I've had to take a sabatical year of buying gear. [/quote] Tell your family you need one present much earlier I don't think that the missus would notice Compact on the list ?

Just go here and stretch your budget just a little, trust me it isn't "metallic" and it will be more than enough for you! [url="http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.php?product_id=37&category_id=2"]http://www.bassmerchant.com/item_detail.ph...p;category_id=2[/url]

could be a wiring issue or something similar, on the other hand the speakers could be f*cked and if they are it might cost a bit to fix!

[quote name='iamthewalrus' post='795954' date='Apr 4 2010, 08:06 PM']Nice looking axe, any chance of a full front pic (ooer missus!!!) of the bass? Cheers, iamthewalrus[/quote] Her you go, altough it's a crappy phone pic [attachment=46525:Front.JPG] [quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='796320' date='Apr 5 2010, 10:20 AM']That is one stunning looking bass. What's the luthier's pricing like?[/quote] You have a PM

It is finished and to see what the easter bunny brought to me today go here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83229"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83229[/url]

Without many words, here it is : :wub: [attachment=46396:IMG_2969.JPG][attachment=46394:IMG_2968.JPG][attachment=46392:IMG_2967.JPG] [attachment=46391:IMG_2966.JPG][attachment=46400:IMG_2971.JPG][attachment=46398:IMG_2970.JPG] [attachment=46388:IMG_2964.JPG][attachment=46386:IMG_2963.JPG][attachment=46384:IMG_2962.JPG] [attachment=46389:IMG_2965.JPG][attachment=46401:IMG_2972.JPG][attachment=46402:IMG_2974.JPG] [attachment=46403:IMG_2975.JPG][attachment=46404:IMG_2977.JPG][attachment=46406:IMG_2981.JPG] [attachment=46405:IMG_2978.JPG] Hope you enjoyed watching

Does it for me every time!

I'm going to ressurect this so I cab get your opinions! Basically I didn't explain properly what I'm looking for from these cabs. I recently have not been happy with my sound, I'm looking for something very bright and sparkly, I think That to best describe this sound is to think of a brand new set of strings on your bass and sound of slap but with fingers if this makes sense and I'm actually wondering now if this is possible and if the cabs I'm looking at are capable of this? Any opinions? Cheers Jack

In a nutshell bi-amping is splitting the signal by using a crossover and sending it to the corresponding speakers! Take for example my GK, if I connect a GK cab that has 1x15 plus a tweeter to my amp the low frequencies will be sent only to the woofer only and the high frequencies will be sent to the tweeter only! I have 2 separate controls so I can changel the volume of each speaker indeoendently! You can achieve it with using normal amp, crossover and a power amp as well!

"shameless plug" Buy my Compact "shameless plug"

Does this help ? It's pretty simple really. The device used whether tube or transistor is BIASED so it is in conduction 100% through 100% of the input signal. You need to know how an amplifier works. Lets just discuss tube amplifier. If the tube was unbiased and allowed to just conduct the tube would heavily conduct and do nothing but make heat. A bias voltage is put on a control grid to do exactly that control the current flowing through the tube. The cathode is Negative plate voltage and the anode is the positive point. This bias voltage placed on a grid located between the cathode and plate slows down the conduction, the higher the NEGATIVE voltage in respect to the cathode the more the tube is throttled down. With enough negative voltage on the cathode the tube can be completely cutoff. The input signal is placed also on this control grid and as its voltage varies up and down at the frequency of the music, the signal pulses from zero volts to positive and then swings negative and back again at the frequency of the note. This signal is at a much smaller value than the control grids high negative bias value but the combined bias and signal voltage cause a HUGE variation in the current flow through the tube. This small voltage to huge current flow change is how the amplifer works. The current flow changes in the primary of the output transformer causes voltages to be induced in the output transformer secondary winding and makes the voice coil move on the speaker. OK back to CLASS... A class A amplifier is biased to conduct current in the final amplifer tube 100% of the input signal's cycle. Preamps are usually run this way and makes for a very pure amplified signal. A tube has a plate dissapation limit for heat. When there is no signal present in a class A amp it is still conducting like there is signal present. Very clean amp and very inefficient power and heat wise. This is also a single ended amplifier as there is just one amplifying device. If you used a large enough tube and used a big enough fan, you could build a super large class A amplifier and that is what the esoteric audio guys are doing using 833's and other broadcast triodes with 450 watts dissapation tubes as giant clean class A amps. They also get $80,000 for their trouble for a pair of stereo channels. A Class B amplifer on the otherhand is biased to cut off the final amplifier tube through 50% of the input signal's cycle. When the tube cuts off it is allowed to cool for 180 degrees; half of the 360 degree signal cycle or 50% of the time. The problem with this class B is you only amplify half the signal and it would sound like crap without putting the other half of the signal back somehow. In RF circuits the output circuit FLYSBACK and induces the other half back in the amplifiers tank ciruit (the equivellence to a power transformer) however at AUDIO the ability to flyback cleanly doesn't exist in such a huge heavily inductive device so that half must be regenerated instead. SO we use another method instead of a single ended amplifier; in push-pull they split the input signal positive and negative and send each half to two different amplifiers. The positive cycle to one set of tubes and the negative part of the cycle to the other set of tubes. Each set of final tubes conducts in exactly 180 degree increments cooling in the other 180 degrees and the output is fed to each end of the output transformer. The transformer puts the two halves of the signal back together.... SO even at audio a perfectly biased CLass B amp could make 100% undistorted beautifully reconstructed audio... Well not quite. You'd need to be constantly tweaking this amp over time. Tubes aging and voltage changes... The manufacturers have lazily decided to run the P-P amps class AB. All that is is a sliding of the bias towards conducting a little bit more current during the tubes rest period. This allows for imperfections in componants and a crumby barely regulated POS bias supply to still make a complete more non-distorted sign wave at the output. A guitar amp is really a truly POS audio wise. That's why a tube amp breaks up and does the distortion game. This would never be allowed to happen in the Audiophile World. Class C is only good for RF amps making morse code, digital, or AM amplified carrier based amplifiers (cut off to less than even 180 degrees of the cycle) And class D is completely different and uses other processes.